Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

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Last Updated: May 28, 2018

VRX-2E 1/8 scale electric buggy RC

This is an in depth view of another Remote controlled Hobby grade I recently acquired from an online shopping site, that is not actually available here in my country.
This is VRX-2E, an electric version of VRX 2 nitro RC made by riverhobby. Electric hobby grade RC is in bloom now following the Nitro engines apparently degrading hobbyist preference over those electric ones, probably because of maintenance issue and or fuel availability on some cases. Electric uses batteries of lipoly type to where just charge it, put on the RC and have some fun without calibrating engine like nitro type.

For an in depth view, here is the video I made for all of those who seeks affordable 1/8 size scale buggy.

General Specification:
  • Length: 505mm 
  • Width: 305mm 
  • Height: 175mm 
  • Wheelbase: 330mm 
  • ESC: 80A 
  • Motor Shaft: 5mm 
  • Weight: 3.5kgs 
  • Gear Ratio: 1:11.35 
  • Wheel Diameter: 115mm 
  • Wheel Width: 42mm 
  • Ground Clearance: 35mm 
  • Pinion Gear: 14T 
  • Motor: 2230KV 
  • Brushless Battery: 11.1V 3 cell Lipo
  • • One-piece battery tray for 2-4 cell lipo fastened by Velcro
  •  • Durable machined 14T pinion gear and 46T spur gear 
  • • Rigid motor mounts securing the motor to chassis tightly 
  • • 80A brushless speed controller with cooling fan designed for 7.4V-14.8V Lipo 
  • • Light and solid 6061/T6 anodized aluminum chassis 
  • • Three differentials and 4WD system 
  • • Ball bearings 
  • • Front and rear sway bars 
  • • Oil filled shock absorbers 
  • • High impact durable lexan body
  •  • Brushless motor and brushless ESC included 
  • • (x1) 11.1V 2700mAh Lipo battery pack and charger included

More in depth photo of the RC buggy:

As I been using this for some time now, it has great traction, the car steers efficiently, and on course it performs well, I am wanting to make this buggy a competitor, Just buying time to entry it when i find one here in my country that will compete with those expensive ones, like Kyosho, TA, redcat, mugen, etc etc.

After all, RC races does not depend only on the brand alone. A good driver will make any alternatives as good as they have. :)

Last Updated: April 26, 2018

FS Racing Victory 53631 brushless Monster Truck Review

FS racing Victory FS53631  is my second Monster Truck remote controlled hobby car. After the Foxx S911 1/12th scale, this is a 1/10th scale and all I can say was. This Truck had some serious power. Bundled with 3S lipo battery of 5400mah and 45C discharge rate. It can do the wheelie thing. Thanks to the add-on anti wheelie bar to avoid flipping it over. Price wise, this is a thing to consider. Powered by a 3652 KV3000 motor and 80A ESC by Hobbystar, This truck really kicks in.

General description:

Length: 430mm
Width: 340mm
Height: 240mm
Wheelbase: 270mm
The Diameter: 130mm
Age range: >8years old
Power: Motor
Motor: 3650 KV3215 KV varies sometimes it was KV3000
Gear Ratio:10.8:1 (pinion gear 13T--Drive gear 50T)
Drive system: 4WD
Chassis: 2mm AL6061
ESC: 45A
Material: Metal,Plastic,Aluminum chassis
Remote Distance:300m
Battery: 11.1v 5400mah, 45C lipo battery Deans connector
ESC: Brushless hobbystar 60A 5mm bullet connector

Model Number: FS-53631

Product features:
1.Metal bevel gear differential equipment
2.Tyre set with 130mm large diameter
3.Front double ball make the steering more flexible
4.Totally enclosed dust cover
5.Full car equipped with ball bearing, drive more slide
6.Additional slipper clutch(option parts)
7.Extra wheely bar
8.Water proof ESC and Servo
9.Alloy chassis is to hard to be destoryed
10.Suspension device is so strong that you can fully enjoy
11.Brushless electric with brushless motors and brushless electric, the speed is commonly in 70 km/h speed - 80 km/h

Distinctive properties:

Front linkage of the truck uses ball type as shown, 

Advantages of it was it does not break, on impact, it just snap out. Just snap it in and ready to go again. Compared it with my Foxx S911, that uses bolt on top and bottom, I already broke the front hub.

In addition to camber adjustment of the front wheel, can easily be performed on that ball stud using hexagonal wrench, by pulling out the wheel and inserting the wrench on the head of the ball stud.

Brushless motor used.
Powerful motor 3652 (36mm diameter and 52mm length) with a 3.175mm shaft size powers this monster truck. They vary from KV3000 -KV3215 upon purchased of this RC monster truck. Bullet connector size is 4mm.
Motor controller or ESC (electronic speed controller)

This again varies in the brand of RACERSTAR, hobbystar, and generic hobbyking clone 60A brusless motor controller..My FS racing Victory EP/BL came with a hobbystar 60A ESC. It has been long before i figure out what was the brand equipped on my monster truck, that i searched each and evry look alike of the motor controller, and came up of the hobbystarlabs brand due to all program card i purchased didn't work on it, and that the last LED Program card i purchased from Banggood did make it work and able to configure the settings. The actual external look of this ESC do not have any markings but, there are two specific 3 wire , 1 short 3 pin connector and 1 long wired connector.

This alone was the very important visual indication that it is indeed a hobbystar 60A ESC. Power switch are the same, including the setup button and the two input wires I have been telling all of you. The long wired goes to the receiver, while as the shorter one, is the programming pin for the led program card.

Hobbywing program card will not work as shown.
It works on TSKY 60A V2 SL hobbywing clone quicrun ESC.

Standard program card will not work either as shown
This works on GOOLRC ESC line up of 35A to 45A only..and possible RACERSTAR variant of the FS victory bundled ESC.

The only program card that works on the hobbystar ESC is shown BELOW this. Without this card, there is no way to access various settings of the ESC such as Li-po cutoff, drag brake percentage etc.

FS victory receiver used or bundled receiver.

Inside the waterproof casing is where the receiver was placed.
It uses the FlySky Gr3E, a 3 channel receiver uses the AFHDS mode, that can be binded on almost Flysky radio transmitter, such as GT3B, GT3C or the advanced FlySky IT4S gun transmitter.
The bundled radio when you buy this was the FS GT6, the bulky radio transmitter or standard radio without throttle dual rate option.


Equipped with 135mm overall diameter tire and 65mm wide, 12mm hex adapter, it would be better if they put the 17mm size fittings of the tire to make it more appealing.

Here are some photos for you to to have a look before buying this. For me this is a great RC monster truck for a competitive price range below 200USD!!!

Last Updated: March 11, 2018

Xinlehong 9115, GPTOYS Foxx S911 brushless upgrade

Recently I bought this 1/12th scale RC truck. I am actually new on Remote controlled trucks but not actually a newbie on this. I have RC from the past but they are actually toy grade. I been reading and viewing this mid toy class RC, that is why I bought it for my son. Very affordable too, not so cheap, not expensive like of those hobby grade line up.

This is an electric RC truck that uses 390 brushed motor. 4 independent suspension and 2.4G transmitter receiver for non interference functionality.

Almost all parts of this mid scale hobby grade RC truck are replaceable, Tires uses the standard 12mm hex adaptor, shocks can also be replaced with an oil filled RC shocks used by high end models, and most of all. Brushed system of this model can be upgraded to Brushless system just like what I did and to give it a little more twist. The stock steering servo can be used instead of replacing it to another servo. (Excited to know how then you are in the right place).

Description of this Xinlehong 9115 RC toy truck:

Made of high quality ABS material
Ready to run and no need to assembly
With large capacity rechargeable battery
1/12 scale suitable for indoor and outdoor control
2.4GHz supporting a range of remote control about 80 meters
Shock absorption and collision avoidance design provided longer service life
The controller can be switched between 2 modes

Item NO.: 9115
Item name: High Speed RC Monster Truck
Material: ABS
Color: Blue and red for option
Scale: 1/12  
Drive System: 2 wheel drive
Remote control frequency: 2.4GHz 
Max. speed: 40km/h
Transmitter battery: 2 * 1.5V AA battery (not included)
Car battery: 9.6V 800mAh Li-ion-Fe battery (included)
Remote control distance: About 80m
Charging time: About 100mins
Working time: About 10mins
Suitable age: Above 8 years old
Wheelbase: 210mm
Wheel diameter: 100mm
Wheel width: 50mm
Ground clearance: 55mm
Battery size: 55 * 48 * 15mm
Car size: 310 * 270 * 150mm (artificial measurements error allowed)
Car weight: 1097g (battery included)

Package Information:
Package size: 33.5 * 28 * 17.5cm / 13.2 * 11 * 6.9in
Package weight: 1773g / 3.9lb

Why I chose this model from the many available in the market like GoolRC, Wltoys, etc etc of the mid range RC truck?

Youtube videos of this model made me purchase it via online. It has a good review from all sources of RC fanatics video blogger out there.This model cannot be bought locally here in my country  As I write it before, It was very affordable with many rooms for improvement and fun doing it. I made my decision. I bought the two color version of 9115 or with other name as Gptoys Foxx S911. But of course one will be used by my son so we can play together. I have the intentions of Upgrading mine to a Brushless system which it will be discussed here at the later part of this post.

Both was bought at 60 USD, and I tell you, this is not a bad mid range RC truck, it has some speed, fun to drive, although 2WD only, I have no problems steering it to where i wanted it go. The lacking side of it was the playing time and will only take me 8-10 minutes on a fully charge battery.

Stock battery is already a 3S LiFePo type..not Li-ion. but only 800mah. 

Again there are still room for improving this playing time by converting to another system rather than trying to put a larger battery, that will just shorten the life of the 390 brushed motor of it. We all brushed have carbons that tear and wear. The only solution is to upgrade it to brushless system. There is no other way around it. Did tried using other source to power it (talking about battery). It just didn't work out well with motor heating up too much.

Gathering ALL parts for the UPGRADE to Brushless system.

Actual 390 brushed motor of 9115 with pinion gear
What we need to make this happen on a Xinlehong 9115 or Gptoys Foxx S911, there are many brushless motor to choose from, I will not reiterate all of them here, there is just too many out there, but we are looking for a Brushless motor that will fit the gearbox of this model without having to tear a portion of it. I want to remain it as it is..

So the dimension of the Brushed 390 motor must be considered in picking the right size of the Brushless motor.

390 motor dimension

The length of the motor is 44.5mm or 45mm with the solder pin

The diameter of the motor is 28mm

This two dimension will be the exact motor to look for thus we end up with 2845 xxxxKV

 xxxxKV is all about how fast the motor can spin per volt. To know more about KV, kindly search some info about it.

The mounting hole on some 2845 are quite the same as the brushed so don't worry, there are lots of way to mount it. The original pinion gear for the motor was fixed on the 390 brushed motor, so need to purchased one with the right number of teeth and shaft size mounting for the upgraded motor..And I came up with this BRUSHLESS MOTOR since it was cheap for me as I am just starting to learn the world of brushless at this time, (not actually new to motors)

I picked the

Surpass 2845 3100KV with 35A ESC..( more on this later) as my starting point, I am just so worried with the upgrade and not upgrading those Nylon plastic gears of the gearbox may snap with the additional rotation it may produce with this brushless motor.

You can do buy other KV rating of this motor but you have to take the risk, well I don't.

The shaft diameter is 3.175mm.

Installing it on the stock gearbox was not that hard enough. The mounting screw hole though needs to be widened a little for the 390 brushed motor and this brushless motor differ on bolt size. Go figure it out.

So i end up like this.

Perfect fit on the gearbox without removing any portion of it. Using the 2838 will just be shorter in length.

Putting it back on the chassis will look like this.
The wire fits and snap perfectly. The position of the ESC and the new receiver for this upgrade fits well on the original battery location of the unit...

Wondering anything about the set-up?..Was that the stock steering servo?

Yes indeed it was, and not replacing it, just modded the wires coming out to 3 wires with the help of a circuit.

Normally the stock steering servo has 5 wires..but the ESC needs 3 wires to make it work. Those 5 wires coming out from the OEM steer servo are as follows.

2 wires for the motor and 3 wires for the feedback trimmer. The trimmer has a value of the standard 5 kilohms..almost all servo feedback tripot uses that value, and it is do fortunate to know this that the STOCK sterring servo indeed using 5kohms, that makes it easier for meto perform the modification.

Again the solution was that 5 wires and make it 3 wires with the help of a circuit.

Donor circuit comes into place,

taken out from my OLD walkera dragonfly pitch servo controller. The circuit will be added to the 5 wires of the stock steering servo. I put a 5 pin connector onto it as shown so that the stock connector can just be plugged it in
as shown.and so i end of with 3 wire for the receiver. so no need to replace the steering servo and re think of how to mount the steering linkage to a new servo.


Of course in order to use the new ESC and brushless system. It needs a new Rx Tx.

I use the
Flysky GT3B, a 3 channel radio transmitter in 2.4ghz range with bundled 3 channel receiver. The tranceiver must be binded, Search internet videos on how to.

VIDEO of running this upgrade soon and the STOCK steering servo working..Subscribe 

Last Updated: January 13, 2018

Shogun Digital Speedometer KOSO STYLE

This is a continuation of the digital speedometer by KOSO taiwan, that I modified to accept digital speed sensor, instead of the original cable type used by Yamaha MIO. The modification intended for use with those sensor found on Raider R150, (Satria and or Belang 150), Shogun R and Pro, as well as Shogun Best 125 and Wave 125 S. They used the Variable Reluctance Sensor fitted at the back of the engine which reads the driveshaft gear of the motorcycle.

The Koso For MIO original way of reading the speed of the motorcycle when fitted was using a speedometer cable and connected to the picture shown. And the other end of the cable goes to the gear assembly connected on the front wheel hub. Not all motorcycle has that gear assembly for others uses digital sensor I have said before. The question of many was. How can we be able to use the Koso for mio on other motorcycle if we want to modify and use it?

The answer rely on this article. First we need to understand how the KOSO for MIO works.
Shown is the view of the Koso original speed mechanism.
The magnet rotates on a hall sensor soldered on the PCB board of the Kos by the speedometer cable attached. When this magnet rotates on top of that hall sensor, It produces magnetism

The Hall sensor I am telling all of you about is shown on this photo.It will be remove for the modification to work later on because an external circuit will replace that hall sensor as an additional pulse shaping adapter for the Variable reluctance sensor. Both sensor differs in many ways, so by just replacing the latter to the hall sensor will definitely not going to work properly.

HALL SENSOR--Hall effect sensor is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to a magnetic field. Hall effect sensors are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection, and current sensing applications.


VARIABLE RELUCTANCE SENSOR use variations in magnetic-field densities created by changes in reluctance within a magnetic circuit. It has its own magnet, and changes on that magnetic field produces pulse.

So their principle on how they work differ thus if we just replace one another without an additional circuit will definitely not able to work and produces irregular speed reading. I tried it already. A 20 kph reading on the original hall sensor will give out 300kph on the reluctance and even with the lowest calibration possible of the software of the unit, still gives a high speed reading.

At first I tried replicating the original speed sensor circuitry of the original Shogun 125 (FD125XRM) panel board. I mean the ORIGINAL OEM speedometer assembly, But for unknown reason still fail with my test, until a friend brought me something. A replacement speedometer assembly of the shogun. A direct replacement to the OEM which has a different circuitry. I analyze that circuit and manage to extract that single block that allows the pulse to be shaped entering the micro controller IC that is easier to understand rather than the complicated MCU of the original OEM panel.

Sorting the single block the performs the duty of pulse shaping. and isolating it. I made it worked on the KOSO and use the reluctance sensor. VOILA!!!! it did work.

I made a stand alone PCB using the same components and put it on single sided board. I used Diptrace Circuit maker for making the outline and transfer it to the PCB for etching. To make it smaller, I used SMD components. and the final etched was so small, i have nothing to worry placing the add on circuit at the back of the KOSO board.

Populating the blank etch PCB will look like this.

Composed of :

1. CD4013 flip flop CMOS IC
2. 7 pcs chip resistor
3. 2 NPN transistor SOT-23
4. 1 chip capacitor.

all parts gathered are from junk boards I have and reused them.

As  I posted the part to be removed on the original KOSO board. The hall sensor in particular. With this add on circuit, hall sensor no longer needed, but keep it in case you just want to placed the KOSO on other motorcycle that has a speedometer cable. (just resoldered the it back).

After removing the hall sensor..taking note of Pin out of the hall sensor. (zoom photo)

add on circuit will be placed as shown. Notice the board. I removed excessive area for placement. 

The variable reluctance sensor needs an external supply to work since the original OEM panel board was replaced to where it was getting own supply. It needs to be supplied otherwise by the koso board which is 5 volts. Red wire comprises it directly to the original connector of the shogun panel..Note the KOSO has its own connector so be advice to work out on it on how to re wire everything without cutting wire, so that when you want to return the original speedometer panel of shogun..just pull out the koso and fit the original as plug and play..Always make it a habit that when you do such modification..do not alter the original wiring for EASE of access later on when everything fail.

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