Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Last Updated: March 11, 2018

Xinlehong 9115, GPTOYS Foxx S911 brushless upgrade

Recently I bought this 1/12th scale RC truck. I am actually new on Remote controlled trucks but not actually a newbie on this. I have RC from the past but they are actually toy grade. I been reading and viewing this mid toy class RC, that is why I bought it for my son. Very affordable too, not so cheap, not expensive like of those hobby grade line up.

This is an electric RC truck that uses 390 brushed motor. 4 independent suspension and 2.4G transmitter receiver for non interference functionality.

Almost all parts of this mid scale hobby grade RC truck are replaceable, Tires uses the standard 12mm hex adaptor, shocks can also be replaced with an oil filled RC shocks used by high end models, and most of all. Brushed system of this model can be upgraded to Brushless system just like what I did and to give it a little more twist. The stock steering servo can be used instead of replacing it to another servo. (Excited to know how then you are in the right place).

Description of this Xinlehong 9115 RC toy truck:

Made of high quality ABS material
Ready to run and no need to assembly
With large capacity rechargeable battery
1/12 scale suitable for indoor and outdoor control
2.4GHz supporting a range of remote control about 80 meters
Shock absorption and collision avoidance design provided longer service life
The controller can be switched between 2 modes

Item NO.: 9115
Item name: High Speed RC Monster Truck
Material: ABS
Color: Blue and red for option
Scale: 1/12  
Drive System: 2 wheel drive
Remote control frequency: 2.4GHz 
Max. speed: 40km/h
Transmitter battery: 2 * 1.5V AA battery (not included)
Car battery: 9.6V 800mAh Li-ion-Fe battery (included)
Remote control distance: About 80m
Charging time: About 100mins
Working time: About 10mins
Suitable age: Above 8 years old
Wheelbase: 210mm
Wheel diameter: 100mm
Wheel width: 50mm
Ground clearance: 55mm
Battery size: 55 * 48 * 15mm
Car size: 310 * 270 * 150mm (artificial measurements error allowed)
Car weight: 1097g (battery included)

Package Information:
Package size: 33.5 * 28 * 17.5cm / 13.2 * 11 * 6.9in
Package weight: 1773g / 3.9lb

Why I chose this model from the many available in the market like GoolRC, Wltoys, etc etc of the mid range RC truck?

Youtube videos of this model made me purchase it via online. It has a good review from all sources of RC fanatics video blogger out there.This model cannot be bought locally here in my country  As I write it before, It was very affordable with many rooms for improvement and fun doing it. I made my decision. I bought the two color version of 9115 or with other name as Gptoys Foxx S911. But of course one will be used by my son so we can play together. I have the intentions of Upgrading mine to a Brushless system which it will be discussed here at the later part of this post.

Both was bought at 60 USD, and I tell you, this is not a bad mid range RC truck, it has some speed, fun to drive, although 2WD only, I have no problems steering it to where i wanted it go. The lacking side of it was the playing time and will only take me 8-10 minutes on a fully charge battery.

Stock battery is already a 3S LiFePo type..not Li-ion. but only 800mah. 

Again there are still room for improving this playing time by converting to another system rather than trying to put a larger battery, that will just shorten the life of the 390 brushed motor of it. We all brushed have carbons that tear and wear. The only solution is to upgrade it to brushless system. There is no other way around it. Did tried using other source to power it (talking about battery). It just didn't work out well with motor heating up too much.

Gathering ALL parts for the UPGRADE to Brushless system.

Actual 390 brushed motor of 9115 with pinion gear
What we need to make this happen on a Xinlehong 9115 or Gptoys Foxx S911, there are many brushless motor to choose from, I will not reiterate all of them here, there is just too many out there, but we are looking for a Brushless motor that will fit the gearbox of this model without having to tear a portion of it. I want to remain it as it is..

So the dimension of the Brushed 390 motor must be considered in picking the right size of the Brushless motor.

390 motor dimension

The length of the motor is 44.5mm or 45mm with the solder pin

The diameter of the motor is 28mm

This two dimension will be the exact motor to look for thus we end up with 2845 xxxxKV

 xxxxKV is all about how fast the motor can spin per volt. To know more about KV, kindly search some info about it.

The mounting hole on some 2845 are quite the same as the brushed so don't worry, there are lots of way to mount it. The original pinion gear for the motor was fixed on the 390 brushed motor, so need to purchased one with the right number of teeth and shaft size mounting for the upgraded motor..And I came up with this BRUSHLESS MOTOR since it was cheap for me as I am just starting to learn the world of brushless at this time, (not actually new to motors)

I picked the

Surpass 2845 3100KV with 35A ESC..( more on this later) as my starting point, I am just so worried with the upgrade and not upgrading those Nylon plastic gears of the gearbox may snap with the additional rotation it may produce with this brushless motor.

You can do buy other KV rating of this motor but you have to take the risk, well I don't.

The shaft diameter is 3.175mm.

Installing it on the stock gearbox was not that hard enough. The mounting screw hole though needs to be widened a little for the 390 brushed motor and this brushless motor differ on bolt size. Go figure it out.

So i end up like this.

Perfect fit on the gearbox without removing any portion of it. Using the 2838 will just be shorter in length.

Putting it back on the chassis will look like this.
The wire fits and snap perfectly. The position of the ESC and the new receiver for this upgrade fits well on the original battery location of the unit...

Wondering anything about the set-up?..Was that the stock steering servo?

Yes indeed it was, and not replacing it, just modded the wires coming out to 3 wires with the help of a circuit.

Normally the stock steering servo has 5 wires..but the ESC needs 3 wires to make it work. Those 5 wires coming out from the OEM steer servo are as follows.

2 wires for the motor and 3 wires for the feedback trimmer. The trimmer has a value of the standard 5 kilohms..almost all servo feedback tripot uses that value, and it is do fortunate to know this that the STOCK sterring servo indeed using 5kohms, that makes it easier for meto perform the modification.

Again the solution was that 5 wires and make it 3 wires with the help of a circuit.

Donor circuit comes into place,

taken out from my OLD walkera dragonfly pitch servo controller. The circuit will be added to the 5 wires of the stock steering servo. I put a 5 pin connector onto it as shown so that the stock connector can just be plugged it in
as shown.and so i end of with 3 wire for the receiver. so no need to replace the steering servo and re think of how to mount the steering linkage to a new servo.


Of course in order to use the new ESC and brushless system. It needs a new Rx Tx.

I use the
Flysky GT3B, a 3 channel radio transmitter in 2.4ghz range with bundled 3 channel receiver. The tranceiver must be binded, Search internet videos on how to.

VIDEO of running this upgrade soon and the STOCK steering servo working..Subscribe 

Last Updated: January 13, 2018

Shogun Digital Speedometer KOSO STYLE

This is a continuation of the digital speedometer by KOSO taiwan, that I modified to accept digital speed sensor, instead of the original cable type used by Yamaha MIO. The modification intended for use with those sensor found on Raider R150, (Satria and or Belang 150), Shogun R and Pro, as well as Shogun Best 125 and Wave 125 S. They used the Variable Reluctance Sensor fitted at the back of the engine which reads the driveshaft gear of the motorcycle.

The Koso For MIO original way of reading the speed of the motorcycle when fitted was using a speedometer cable and connected to the picture shown. And the other end of the cable goes to the gear assembly connected on the front wheel hub. Not all motorcycle has that gear assembly for others uses digital sensor I have said before. The question of many was. How can we be able to use the Koso for mio on other motorcycle if we want to modify and use it?

The answer rely on this article. First we need to understand how the KOSO for MIO works.
Shown is the view of the Koso original speed mechanism.
The magnet rotates on a hall sensor soldered on the PCB board of the Kos by the speedometer cable attached. When this magnet rotates on top of that hall sensor, It produces magnetism

The Hall sensor I am telling all of you about is shown on this photo.It will be remove for the modification to work later on because an external circuit will replace that hall sensor as an additional pulse shaping adapter for the Variable reluctance sensor. Both sensor differs in many ways, so by just replacing the latter to the hall sensor will definitely not going to work properly.

HALL SENSOR--Hall effect sensor is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to a magnetic field. Hall effect sensors are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection, and current sensing applications.


VARIABLE RELUCTANCE SENSOR use variations in magnetic-field densities created by changes in reluctance within a magnetic circuit. It has its own magnet, and changes on that magnetic field produces pulse.

So their principle on how they work differ thus if we just replace one another without an additional circuit will definitely not able to work and produces irregular speed reading. I tried it already. A 20 kph reading on the original hall sensor will give out 300kph on the reluctance and even with the lowest calibration possible of the software of the unit, still gives a high speed reading.

At first I tried replicating the original speed sensor circuitry of the original Shogun 125 (FD125XRM) panel board. I mean the ORIGINAL OEM speedometer assembly, But for unknown reason still fail with my test, until a friend brought me something. A replacement speedometer assembly of the shogun. A direct replacement to the OEM which has a different circuitry. I analyze that circuit and manage to extract that single block that allows the pulse to be shaped entering the micro controller IC that is easier to understand rather than the complicated MCU of the original OEM panel.

Sorting the single block the performs the duty of pulse shaping. and isolating it. I made it worked on the KOSO and use the reluctance sensor. VOILA!!!! it did work.

I made a stand alone PCB using the same components and put it on single sided board. I used Diptrace Circuit maker for making the outline and transfer it to the PCB for etching. To make it smaller, I used SMD components. and the final etched was so small, i have nothing to worry placing the add on circuit at the back of the KOSO board.

Populating the blank etch PCB will look like this.

Composed of :

1. CD4013 flip flop CMOS IC
2. 7 pcs chip resistor
3. 2 NPN transistor SOT-23
4. 1 chip capacitor.

all parts gathered are from junk boards I have and reused them.

As  I posted the part to be removed on the original KOSO board. The hall sensor in particular. With this add on circuit, hall sensor no longer needed, but keep it in case you just want to placed the KOSO on other motorcycle that has a speedometer cable. (just resoldered the it back).

After removing the hall sensor..taking note of Pin out of the hall sensor. (zoom photo)

add on circuit will be placed as shown. Notice the board. I removed excessive area for placement. 

The variable reluctance sensor needs an external supply to work since the original OEM panel board was replaced to where it was getting own supply. It needs to be supplied otherwise by the koso board which is 5 volts. Red wire comprises it directly to the original connector of the shogun panel..Note the KOSO has its own connector so be advice to work out on it on how to re wire everything without cutting wire, so that when you want to return the original speedometer panel of shogun..just pull out the koso and fit the original as plug and play..Always make it a habit that when you do such modification..do not alter the original wiring for EASE of access later on when everything fail.

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Last Updated: January 10, 2018

Testing KOSO for MIO to work without speedometer cable

Koso for mio again uses speedometer cable fitted on the front wheel hub for reading speed. Unlike those that can be found on FD125XRm or shogun 125, and those like of Honda Wave S 125 that uses variable reluctance sensor fitted on the drive shaft of the transmission. I have been incorporating the KOSO to work on my shogun 125 since my motorcycle do not have any speedometer cable. That alone is to difficult to do, up until i found a specific circuit to be added and removing some components soldered on the KOSO PCB and tried putting an add on circuit in replacement for the hall sensor that reads the rotating magnet of the original assembly for cable type. hence it works.

This video shows the setup on my workbench. the circuit will be pre fabricated using PCB software. Components and bill of materials to follow.

The calibration will be done by the original settings menu of the KOSO unit. since there is a percentage of tire circumference, but since varaiable reluctance will be used, the settings will be minimal.

I have used a signal generator to produce and simulate the reluctance sensor output. Well it works.

Last Updated: December 11, 2017

A7 action camera teardown and review

I recently bought a very cheap action sports camera just for educational purposes only, and again just to tear it down apart and see what was behind the rectangular black plastic with lens sticking out in front. This time is an A7 Action camera bought at a local online store here in my country for just 399 Philippine peso ( $7 US dollars ). Who would not believe with that price u get

  • 30m waterproof casing
  • Handlebar clip
  • Quick snap locking bracket
  • set of velcrow strap
  • a 900mah universal battery
  • a USB connector cable
  • Selfie stick adapter
  • and a sslfie stick housing attachment
All for 399 pesos or 7 us dollars..

That is one reason I bought it for buying piece by piece you'll be paying more..All accessories I mentioned is 100% compatible with the one I am using which is this one IcoontechsIT 4K UHD sports camera. The battery can be used on it, so i already have a slight backup when i needed one.

Continue with the review was, this A7 was advertise again as 1080p. Not to be biased with the IconntechsIT brand, there is no comparison. The quality of A7 was devastating as if you are using a 2M pixel cellphone camera, not even close, since after my teardown of the said camera, it uses the OMNIVISION OV7676 cmos sensor. More on that later.

The camera do not have anything to offer but just turn it on, wait for the 2.0 inch lcd go to view mode and ready for action. press the Ok button to start recording. Menu setting no more than 20 item. That's it. Np gyro, no accelerometer, just go ahead, make my day capture thing.

Now for the teardown.

I did not put any video related on how to dismantle one. There is actually no serviceable thing inside aside from the firmware load. So if u are planning to teardown yours just for educational process, then just watch video on YouTube channels. there are too many now, you will not get lost.

Upon removal of the LCD screen cover. the main board willl have 3 small screws 2 at the bottom been removed.

The main board states
D600_MAIN_V02 20170327

Board date was the time it was made and assembled maybe not so sure bout it but maybe.

The front cover is just snap on and can be removed by flat object. there are four screws on every corner of the cover. pry up the mode button board, and you can now pull up the board.

Here is a view of dismantled parts of a working A7 camera.. See how technology is evolving and how cheap to come up with such limited components to form a working camera.

Here is the camera CMOS sensor view. As I posted up. it uses the Omnivision OV7676 that according to the data sheet that can be found here OV7676 datasheet

The maximum resolution it can handle was 720p, so no wonder the 1080p shoot settings was a crappy one. Nonentheless it shoots well with 720p on well lit area.

The processor of this A7 camera is this. I cannot find any information of the said part as of the writing but hopefully soon, I can dig up the internet for it.

And for the battery, a 3.7v 900mah lipo battery that can be used on any other clone sports camera.

There is nothing to talk much about the APPO A7 sports camera..Very cheap, sadly cheap quality too..

till next teardown.

Last Updated: October 01, 2017

Yamaha FZ16 speedometer back light mods

Motorcycle enthusiast tend to modify the ride mainly for performance or looks. More often they forgot to enhance the back lit of their speedometer. And so why can't I. Introducing the seven color back lit change on FZ16 speedometer panel. With no external switch to change color, I eliminate such and provide the odometer-trip meter selection to change back light.

Are you interested on this kind of modification? All you have to do is send me your panel, and i'll do it for you!..HAPPY MOTORING GUYS..