Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.

HOW CDI WORKS

CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Last Updated: January 13, 2018

Koso for MIO modification


This is a continuation of the digital speedometer by KOSO taiwan, that I modified to accept digital speed sensor, instead of the original cable type used by Yamaha MIO. The modification intended for use with those sensor found on Raider R150, (Satria and or Belang 150), Shogun R and Pro, as well as Shogun Best 125 and Wave 125 S. They used the Variable Reluctance Sensor fitted at the back of the engine which reads the driveshaft gear of the motorcycle.

The Koso For MIO original way of reading the speed of the motorcycle when fitted was using a speedometer cable and connected to the picture shown. And the other end of the cable goes to the gear assembly connected on the front wheel hub. Not all motorcycle has that gear assembly for others uses digital sensor I have said before. The question of many was. How can we be able to use the Koso for mio on other motorcycle if we want to modify and use it?

The answer rely on this article. First we need to understand how the KOSO for MIO works.
Shown is the view of the Koso original speed mechanism.
The magnet rotates on a hall sensor soldered on the PCB board of the Kos by the speedometer cable attached. When this magnet rotates on top of that hall sensor, It produces magnetism

The Hall sensor I am telling all of you about is shown on this photo.It will be remove for the modification to work later on because an external circuit will replace that hall sensor as an additional pulse shaping adapter for the Variable reluctance sensor. Both sensor differs in many ways, so by just replacing the latter to the hall sensor will definitely not going to work properly.

HALL SENSOR--Hall effect sensor is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to a magnetic field. Hall effect sensors are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection, and current sensing applications.




 



VARIABLE RELUCTANCE SENSOR use variations in magnetic-field densities created by changes in reluctance within a magnetic circuit. It has its own magnet, and changes on that magnetic field produces pulse.






So their principle on how they work differ thus if we just replace one another without an additional circuit will definitely not able to work and produces irregular speed reading. I tried it already. A 20 kph reading on the original hall sensor will give out 300kph on the reluctance and even with the lowest calibration possible of the software of the unit, still gives a high speed reading.

At first I tried replicating the original speed sensor circuitry of the original Shogun 125 (FD125XRM) panel board. I mean the ORIGINAL OEM speedometer assembly, But for unknown reason still fail with my test, until a friend brought me something. A replacement speedometer assembly of the shogun. A direct replacement to the OEM which has a different circuitry. I analyze that circuit and manage to extract that single block that allows the pulse to be shaped entering the micro controller IC that is easier to understand rather than the complicated MCU of the original OEM panel.

Sorting the single block the performs the duty of pulse shaping. and isolating it. I made it worked on the KOSO and use the reluctance sensor. VOILA!!!! it did work.



I made a stand alone PCB using the same components and put it on single sided board. I used Diptrace Circuit maker for making the outline and transfer it to the PCB for etching. To make it smaller, I used SMD components. and the final etched was so small, i have nothing to worry placing the add on circuit at the back of the KOSO board.


Populating the blank etch PCB will look like this.

Composed of :

1. CD4013 flip flop CMOS IC
2. 7 pcs chip resistor
3. 2 NPN transistor SOT-23
4. 1 chip capacitor.

all parts gathered are from junk boards I have and reused them.


As  I posted the part to be removed on the original KOSO board. The hall sensor in particular. With this add on circuit, hall sensor no longer needed, but keep it in case you just want to placed the KOSO on other motorcycle that has a speedometer cable. (just resoldered the it back).


After removing the hall sensor..taking note of Pin out of the hall sensor. (zoom photo)


add on circuit will be placed as shown. Notice the board. I removed excessive area for placement. 

The variable reluctance sensor needs an external supply to work since the original OEM panel board was replaced to where it was getting own supply. It needs to be supplied otherwise by the koso board which is 5 volts. Red wire comprises it directly to the original connector of the shogun panel..Note the KOSO has its own connector so be advice to work out on it on how to re wire everything without cutting wire, so that when you want to return the original speedometer panel of shogun..just pull out the koso and fit the original as plug and play..Always make it a habit that when you do such modification..do not alter the original wiring for EASE of access later on when everything fail.

Continuation on Part 2. video test run calibration using KOSO internal settings menu 
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Last Updated: January 10, 2018

Testing KOSO for MIO to work without speedometer cable

Koso for mio again uses speedometer cable fitted on the front wheel hub for reading speed. Unlike those that can be found on FD125XRm or shogun 125, and those like of Honda Wave S 125 that uses variable reluctance sensor fitted on the drive shaft of the transmission. I have been incorporating the KOSO to work on my shogun 125 since my motorcycle do not have any speedometer cable. That alone is to difficult to do, up until i found a specific circuit to be added and removing some components soldered on the KOSO PCB and tried putting an add on circuit in replacement for the hall sensor that reads the rotating magnet of the original assembly for cable type. hence it works.

This video shows the setup on my workbench. the circuit will be pre fabricated using PCB software. Components and bill of materials to follow.



The calibration will be done by the original settings menu of the KOSO unit. since there is a percentage of tire circumference, but since varaiable reluctance will be used, the settings will be minimal.

I have used a signal generator to produce and simulate the reluctance sensor output. Well it works.

Last Updated: December 11, 2017

A7 action camera teardown and review


I recently bought a very cheap action sports camera just for educational purposes only, and again just to tear it down apart and see what was behind the rectangular black plastic with lens sticking out in front. This time is an A7 Action camera bought at a local online store here in my country for just 399 Philippine peso ( $7 US dollars ). Who would not believe with that price u get

  • 30m waterproof casing
  • Handlebar clip
  • Quick snap locking bracket
  • set of velcrow strap
  • a 900mah universal battery
  • a USB connector cable
  • Selfie stick adapter
  • and a sslfie stick housing attachment
All for 399 pesos or 7 us dollars..

That is one reason I bought it for buying piece by piece you'll be paying more..All accessories I mentioned is 100% compatible with the one I am using which is this one IcoontechsIT 4K UHD sports camera. The battery can be used on it, so i already have a slight backup when i needed one.

Continue with the review was, this A7 was advertise again as 1080p. Not to be biased with the IconntechsIT brand, there is no comparison. The quality of A7 was devastating as if you are using a 2M pixel cellphone camera, not even close, since after my teardown of the said camera, it uses the OMNIVISION OV7676 cmos sensor. More on that later.

The camera do not have anything to offer but just turn it on, wait for the 2.0 inch lcd go to view mode and ready for action. press the Ok button to start recording. Menu setting no more than 20 item. That's it. Np gyro, no accelerometer, just go ahead, make my day capture thing.

Now for the teardown.


I did not put any video related on how to dismantle one. There is actually no serviceable thing inside aside from the firmware load. So if u are planning to teardown yours just for educational process, then just watch video on YouTube channels. there are too many now, you will not get lost.

Upon removal of the LCD screen cover. the main board willl have 3 small screws 2 at the bottom been removed.

The main board states
D600_MAIN_V02 20170327

Board date was the time it was made and assembled maybe not so sure bout it but maybe.

The front cover is just snap on and can be removed by flat object. there are four screws on every corner of the cover. pry up the mode button board, and you can now pull up the board.

Here is a view of dismantled parts of a working A7 camera.. See how technology is evolving and how cheap to come up with such limited components to form a working camera.

Here is the camera CMOS sensor view. As I posted up. it uses the Omnivision OV7676 that according to the data sheet that can be found here OV7676 datasheet

The maximum resolution it can handle was 720p, so no wonder the 1080p shoot settings was a crappy one. Nonentheless it shoots well with 720p on well lit area.

The processor of this A7 camera is this. I cannot find any information of the said part as of the writing but hopefully soon, I can dig up the internet for it.

And for the battery, a 3.7v 900mah lipo battery that can be used on any other clone sports camera.

There is nothing to talk much about the APPO A7 sports camera..Very cheap, sadly cheap quality too..

till next teardown.

Last Updated: October 01, 2017

Yamaha FZ16 speedometer back light mods

Motorcycle enthusiast tend to modify the ride mainly for performance or looks. More often they forgot to enhance the back lit of their speedometer. And so why can't I. Introducing the seven color back lit change on FZ16 speedometer panel. With no external switch to change color, I eliminate such and provide the odometer-trip meter selection to change back light.












Are you interested on this kind of modification? All you have to do is send me your panel, and i'll do it for you!..HAPPY MOTORING GUYS..

Last Updated: September 06, 2017

Relay Based Motorcycle Accessories Installition

There are numerous misconception of using Mechanical Relays on a Motorcycle to power accessories like led bar and or any mid current consuming devices. More often, they tend to use too many allowing complicated wiring and dirty look harness at the same time, But actually, the use of relay is pretty simple and straight forward.

Relay are there for ISOLATION..It is use primarily to isolate high current consuming devices not to overload the existing power line of your motorcycle. Other just tap on the original power supply line  thus overloading it, heating it up then making it work hard up until copper turns black in color, thus producing too much resistance on it, and then failed to provide enough current to the original line, But how to avoid such. Mechanical Relay is your answer, But then again the question of many, is HOW? how? and how?

Ignition key switch cuts off power to the entire electrical system when it is switched off and vice versa, provide one when it is switched on, but then again, will not managed to provide to those that needs mid current devices like led bar like WALL E that consumes 1.8A approximate. To power it correctly without harming the original wiring. It needs to be isolated. Hello RELAY, now i need you.

ILLUSTRATION:

This is the Visual connection on how to make additional accessories for your motorcycle..use only one relay of high current contact capacity..that will turned OFF when ignition key is off automatically, whether the accessory switch is ON..no power will flow to your added accessory.