Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

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Last Updated: September 15, 2014

Motorcycle Racing CDI Repair

Motorcycle ignition are subjected to failure due to many reasons. Even those aftermarket racing cdi are vulnerable to failure. In this article, a famous well known small motorcycle ignition controller in asia got burned by a user by unspecified condition and so handed over to me for inspection internally. It has no activity whatsoever when plugged to a Yamaha Mio scooter, External view of the casing told me there is one small hole with black mark on it indicating that this cdi got a burned component inside and probably the cause is still unknown after i have not open the entire ignition controller and so let us begin the tear down for further analysis.

Same as to those CDI i opened before, need to be very careful not to damage the components inside. The cover will be wasted part of this operation. The ignition controller is heavily coated with rubber epoxy resin, but can easily be stripped off by a piece of pointed wooden material.

Carefully begin the sides first to see the edge of the board. In the photo, i stripped the area of the burnt component to see that component, with the orientation of the parts installed, i knew it has something to do with the High Voltage generator circuit. The part number is totally erased by the burned component. So i need to dig deeper.

Continuing the process of exposing the board as follows. Exposing first the bottom view of the board will make it easier to find where tall components are located and also exposed the area of damaged.

There are also damaged copper foil, indicating not only one part is defective. Sign of too many problems the cdi encountered from the user.

After removing the entire coating of the bottom view of the board, just continue the removal now of the component side with many PATIENCE at hand.

And here is the partial section of that top area of the board. It took hours of removing the stubborn rubber coating. We all know the reason of those coatings before, it protects the entire board from moisture, vibration, dirt and other nature elements that may limit the life of the CDI during operation.

Exposing the board further, Have to desolder some components due to spaces of each part, nearly break a damn 1/8th watts resistor. The silk screen has a marking of component so removing parts and writing down every value of the component is critical from here. And that's the way it should when repairing such item, for once a part gets damaged and value is no longer visible, it will be a waste of time figuring out that UNKNOWN part without any schematic diagram in hand.

Nearing to the teardown,

Let us take a closer look at the damage component. Tracing the entire board and drawing the schematic gives me that the burnt component with a silk screen suffix of S1 made me think it is a Thyristor (SCR) that switches the capacitor to discharge the energy to the ignition coil. a major part of the cdi. I suspect that the output of this cdi got shorted with the igntion coil.

With some part now desolder on the board to thoroughly clean the cdi, Component testing made it easier to find other that failed. Overall it has four components that needed to be replaced to make it working again. As of this time, I am gathering the components needed for it to run again, will do some bench testing using pulse simulator. As far as i am concern, with the look of those failed parts of this ignition controller,

There are many primary reason why it ended this way

1. Overvoltage of the supply
2. Temporary short at the ignition coil area. (output of the CDI to the ignition coil)

3. Wrong wiring connection
4. The least is factory defect...(found some solder residue that may causes the short path of each component in the high voltage section of this cdi)

Part II of this repair will be compose of the bench testing and actual video of it when back to life.

Last Updated: September 14, 2014

Another Motorcycle Voltage Regulator (FAKE)

Not all motorcycle regulator are created equal. This article will tell you how a fake regulator looks like if dismantled. From the housing you will never tell, but what is inside shall tell the difference between a good and a really bad one. From the time it was handed over to me by a friend to look at it. Even i was not sure it was faked. From this post Voltage regulator you wont see the difference externally, they are almost identical, the weight and the appearance, but.....

Bad regulator
Good working regulator
If they are taken side by side, they are identical. Now let us tear down this fake regulator and compare it to the one i posted before and let us see what was inside.
More photo of the said fake regulator properly filled with epoxy resin. Nice job.. It is time to dismantle you. Using my handy dandy mini blow torch and flat screwdriver,
I stripped an area to get down the bottom of it, but to my surprise, the flat screw driver gets punched down easily and here is what happened. White Sand comes down pouring out of the hole made by the screwdriver.
Another photo of this BEACH filled regulator.

From here, I know already what was inside this fake regulator, I already posted one here fake regulator 4 pin

Digging down what was started

After minutes of heating up the epoxy resin and stripping with the screw driver. Here is what inside. A DIODE, yes a rectifier diode

the half of the diode is left inside, take a closer look

A good working motorcycle regulator must have a board and other components aside from a diode.

There are four wires coming out from this regulator and all wires must not have a continuity if test by a multimeter. The green wire and the pink wire on this fake regulator are connected with each other, to which in a good regulator, are separated to other circuitry.

Closer look. So I advice to take precautionary measure of dealing with such kind by using continuity tester. If not familiar with it then bring someone with you when buying motorcycle part like this from your friendly store..(are they really friendly or just taking away your money).

Last Updated: September 12, 2014

Digital Fuel Gauge LCD Dsiplay

Some small and sports bike motorcycle are equipped with LCD display to indicate speed, fuel level, trip meter and or odometer. Those displays are subjected also to wera and tear due to sunlight especially when parked at direct sunlight. It cracks, and more often getting burned by heat of the sun, thus damaging their polarizer and faded alphanumeric display are the result. It is very difficult to find replacement of this LCD, so we will just try to repair it using materials that would probably works. Let me see. lcd, lcd , lcd..aha! got one defective lcd monitor of desktop computer will do.

Photo at the left shows a flaky lcd display. and needed attention of repair. Before removal of the lcd, prepare the following.

1. cutter blade
2. double sided tape
3. replacement polarizer-(from old defective lcd monitor lying around, will strip a portion of it)
4. alcohol

lets get deeper now.

Step by Step removal of the speedometer panel will not be discuss, everyone can dismantle it from the head unit.

Ready for stripping the damage lcd polarizer, I missed taking a shot on how, but just peel it on top of the lcd by first using the cutter blade to the upper most side then gently pull it away with little force by your finger. Some adhesive of the polarizer will remain on top of the lcd after removal but it will be easily removed by double sided tape and alcohol, later.

View of removed polarizer film of the lcd. Noticed the remains of the adhesive, just use the double sided tape, peel a portion then press it on those pesky adhesive then pull upward, do that many times until none has left, then use the alcohol on clean cloth, wipe it. (avoid the back portion of the lcd with the alcohol, the reflective film at the back will be damaged, as well as the contacts back below the lcd.

This is the cleaned view of this lcd without the polarizer. If you power on the lcd without the polarizer installed, you will not see anything on the display, the alphanumeric is there, but since there's no filter on top..it gets invisible.

The defective LCD monitor of a pc comes into play, you will also peel a portion to get what we need or if you have the resources of buying a BRAND new one from all ONLINE sources much better, but yours truly do not have that so will try to use all existing parts i can salvage from the workshop.

here is what i got, since it was pulled out, there is no more adhesive, so i just have to place it on top with the cover to secure it in place. Now here comes the tricky part..the orientation of the film..

If you want the older look of the display with the alphanumeric visible on clear background.

now try flipping it back and place it on top to see the orientation..black background
 From there, you can now have thr REVERSED view of your LCD, the alphanumeric will be displayed on white againts the black background giving you better results.
This is the final look when powered on.
The original look is this one. It is your choice, so good luck repairing yours.