Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Last Updated: March 25, 2019

DC-CDI under test for energy discharge

I'm back readers. Been very busy lately. Here is a very interesting video I made prior to testing one of the dc-cdi I been using as test. It is an OEM CDI of Kawasaki Barako 175cc. Before long ago, you will find my first test on this ignition module without altering the High Voltage generator area, and I have been thinking many years now to increase the spark intensity of a stock cdi. I actually do not believe on Racing CDI since their ignition mapping somehow changes and the accuracy of timing was poor. Stock CDI are made by Denso, hence it is Japanese made and the engineering behind it was superb for me. I don't know about you, but for whatever reason I have. I tried many, not even close to the timing of stock cdi.

without further a do. Watch the video and tell me what you think about it down the comment section. I'll do another video soon. but this time it will be the STOCK SHOGUN DC-CDI unopened and opened modded one so stay tune.

Here it is:

Last Updated: January 18, 2019

DIY Desktop CNC using scrap materials.

My first ever build was way back 2012 on this DIY CNC test jig out from various scrap materials , unfortunately it was wrecked when a flood hit us, and so I build another one, with the same principle but this time with some purchased parts such as linear rail slides, a lead screw with brass nut , couplers, an ER11 collet chuck and collets. This is actually an upgrade to make it stable probably, but I know still needing some improvements perhaps an Aluminum frame and holders, but with the limited resources that I have, I'll stick to this one first at least to know more better about CNC. Yes, there are lots of tutorials all over the internet, but without a CNC in front of you, will be very difficult to understand how it really works.

This was my first build was entirely without any purchased material compare to this one. Although still handled by Tachus42 hardware, just upgraded the stepper motors for both X and Y axis replacing the M42SP-5 low torque motor. Been having problem with that before. it skips the travel because the unit have no linear rail slider before. The first build also uses ordinary threaded rod and now replaced with 2mm pitch lead screw. The slide rail two was upgraded from Acrylic drilled hole to linear slides makes it more effective than my first build.
Since my DIY CNC dimension was 400mm by 400mm as square as it is due to those scavenge inkjet printers. Cutting it will be a waste of a perfect rod. The base are made of old woods from cabinets I dismantled and reuse. Of course recycling is a must. Local purchase is not a good idea. I wanted to make it as simple as it can but useful machine.

Materials purchased for my Version 2 DIY CNC are as follows:

Lead screws 8mm with brass nut, linear slides 8mm ID, and the lead screw nut block.

Photos of my build:

Improvised rod holder from old cabinet

Unipolar stepper motor 17pm-k302-g2v2 X-axis

Unipolar stepper motor STP-42D2014 Y axis

Unipolar stepper motor EM-199 Z axis

Z-axis short travel to make it stable

Sample plot using pencil first.

Using KCAM4 as the software, configuring the travel axis and feeds is so difficult. I have to trial and error plot first then measure the dimension of the job and comparing it with plotted by lines both X and Y travel.

Updated: I recently switched to MACH3 software and did this for the first time. Using VCARVE as the CAD/CAM.

A raised text in a 35mm x 50mm size acrylic sheet of 4mm thick.

Last Updated: January 04, 2019

Handle Bar End with lights in depth look!

Long before these Bar end light came to the market. I already Do it yourself guide on how to make one just like my earlier post about Led Bar End lights  . And since then , I am still using them and serve me well until I recently found this bar end with lights on a two color tone in an online shopping site, and made me curious the build. And so I bought one to look at it with in depth analysis of the said bar end.

These bar end has lights that can be configured to act as an additional visibility at night, can be used as day time running lights and or act as an additional turn signal lights if installed correctly.

I was actually amazed by it. Even though I love to build myself for my intended application. Buying ready made now a days are so cheap. What so interesting about was. If you will build it from scratch, you'll be paying more than the actual ready made item.

This is an in depth look of the said item, and made a video of it for you to understand it more so that when you buy it. You will have an idea of what materials used and how it emit the light.

More photos

Video of this in depth look at this Handle Bar end lights!!!

With some slight modification to extend the longevity of the led, motorcycle voltages vary from 12 volt all the way up to 14.6 volts. And as I have said from the video, there is no constant current regulator on it and only limiting resistor tends to control the current being fed to the led at a constant voltage. So bear in mind. The unit can be used on 12 volts but can get some damage on 14.6 volts overtime since the led will be over driven by current that it can normally hold to extend their life. Believe me. I've done many led experiments within this site. just some slight modification is all these ready made crafted item to be more useful than just light it up and then die in a matter of short time than expected.

Will update this very soon when the item is connected to my motorcycle. I already have my DIY on it for the past 12 years, and still working. I'll just try these thing.

Thank you very much for having your time reading. Happy Motoring guys. Happy New Year to all!!!

Last Updated: October 22, 2018

Aftermarket digital speedometer parameter setting menu

This is the hidden parameter setting menu of the 13,000 rpm type aftermarket digital odometer speedometer from banggood and aliexpress with model number HB-JG-004 written at the bottom of the unit.

In order to gain access to the speed parameter settings. just follow the simple instructions. If have problem understanding it, do not hesitate to drop by an email.

Last Updated: September 04, 2018


Original OEM full wave regulator of a Branded Motorcycle Model
Full wave regulator is a REGULATOR on some motorcycle that offers better charging capabilities on their electrical system when it comes to additional accessories installed such as led bars and flood lights. Most motorcycle to where you can turn ON the headlights even if the engine is OFF is considered a FULL WAVE system, that unlike on HALF wave, you have to run the engine and intensity varies to the revolution of the engine, the latter is fixed intensity due to their headlight connected directly to the battery.

In this article, again for educational purposes only. We go inside and exposed what was inside noted that this one is an expensive one compared to my other post of full wave regulator sold as an aftermarket. The one being posted here is an OEm, an Original part of a widely known motorcycle that continue to fail and fail due to many reason that I will state later at the end of the posting.


Before tearing it apart, there is no active description that this is a FULL WAVE TYPE of regulator.since this item uses 4 pins or 4 terminal pins like those on HALF WAVE..many thought by just using multimeter alone will indicate a half or full type, but I can;t provide any. I just relied on how  they are configured on a motorcycle.

Sometimes an OEM uses rubberized resin to protect internal components from water and vibration. Aftermarket ones uses HARD epoxy resin. That is my way or trying to Distinguish the two.
So let the tear up begin, Again shown on the left uses rubberized resin, so it will be easily scrape using bamboo stick..metal pointed object when doing the scraping is not advisable, It may pop components inside.

Patience is needed if you want to reuse the item or repair it. The process is straight forward. I am opening the item since this unit is already not clamping output voltage and outputting almost 18v and more. Normal working voltage should be 14.4 - 14.6 Volts.

As the slow scraping process you will see some components gets visible.
Continuing will expose more of it. This will allow you to visually inspect where the PCB of the board is located and as the process of scraping is finished without hurting small components, the entire internal components will be exposed. By following this Aftermarket FULL WAVE regulator schematic, They both function the same.
Almost same schematic but different part number use, but the uses is the same. Uses SCR , Bridge rectifier, resistors, capacitors and transistors in SMD type to minimize space and size of the whole circuit.
The board which is the voltage monitoring circuit must be remove. carefully desolder all pins connected to the PCB, pull it up. Nice.

What was left on the housing was the defective SCR and the leaky BRIDGE RECTIFIER..They are the ones that has a DEFECT that allowing the 18v ouput. The SCR was already shorted, and the BRIDGE RECTIFIER positive and negative pins is leaky and should and must not have any resistance due to the diode configuration of 4 pieces.

Close up view of the voltage monitoring circuit of this regulator, Seems legit. Tracing the circuit gives me the same as to Full wave regulator schematic post.
No unusual special additional circuit. All SMD marking code are intact and can be replicated.

There is no special means of identifying whether the regulator is ok or not by using multimeter, since what you will just be able to measure is are the diodes that was configured on a bridge type. SCR test by multimeter without tearing it apart will give you nothing.
This method i did confirmed..SCR was indeed defective by pin test resistance measurement.