- ADB738B7A17FCD58E09A52F87C960C83 Techy at day, Blogger at noon, and a Hobbyist at night

Stock headlight Intensity Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more

FULL Waving your stock charging

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Odometer Mileage Reset Technique

Resetting odometer cannot be done externally but internally. To find out how the easiest way. Click for solution.


Stock headlight is always the way to go since it is AC driven headlight but you can always add a HIDDEN LED HEADLIGHT without removing the stock.

Digital Speedometers

Sigital Speedometers is always the way to go when it comes to convenience of reading your mileage and speed because it stores the data. Also equipped with everything you need like Oil temo, Clock, Trip A, and etc. Want to know more. Click here.

Wednesday, August 26, 2020

Let us talk about SPARK PLUG!!!

 Motorcycle Ignition will not be complete without something to jump an arc to inside the combustion chamber to Ignite the compressed mixture may it be Carbureted or Fuel Injected system of Front end Ignition. More users often tend to change Ignition boxes, remapped the ECU, change ignition coils, Lightened something to have at least a very reliable and at least above optimum Ignition system. The least Item on their list of changing was the dreaded SPARK PLUG!!!!

There are many to choose from. starting to ORDINARY all the way up to more expensive ones like Iridium and or Platinum, but how do they really produces the ARC or spark when they are bolted on the plug hole. Do you really see how they spark and compare them to others? Is there a way to see them arc and be visible to our eye.

Well I did an experiment on some of what  I have on my workshop, in which I used them before on my 16 year old small engine motorcycle. As always I set up up my DC-CDI testing equipment to perform this experiment.

Spark Plug to be tested today are as follows 

  1. AT7C platinum--normally sold by Chinese online shopping site, They are many rebranded of this but all of them came from AT7C base item

  2. Ordinary AT7C--the non platinum type mainly in white color for distinguisment.

  3. Denso Iridium IUF22--very known worldwide and it is not cheap. I bought i before around year 2008 for around 15$

  4. Bosch Platinum UR4A--The composition of the center core of this plug is somehow hidden and just a portion of it is exposed on the ceramic coating.

  5. AT7C 3 Electrode--The Chinese 3 electrode type with the center element is like a side gaped type.

The test will be very simple. The DC-CDI will fire the coil at 1000RPM and 10,000RPM to just see the intensity of the 5 spark plug..The color is not much seen by the camera used but in my own eyes they all differ. Other plug was white all through out, One plug was orange arc, There is a plug that arcs like a NEW YEAR luces.


The AT7C can replace the following brand and model.

Autolite 4194
Brisk NAR14YC
Brisk NAR14YS
Champion PZ7HC
Champion Z8
Champion Z9Y
Denso IUF22
Denso U22FS-U
Denso U22FSR-U
Enker T90

Tuesday, August 18, 2020

Raider R150 speedometer repair

 Raider R150 speedometer LCD is in need of repair. When always parked at direct sunlight. The lcd film will be damaged as shown.

This unit was from a client with odometer stuck at 99999.9km mileage value too and thus needing a manual reset to near zero to be functional.

The before and after repair.
The amber orange light was also replaced with more vivid clear display on white background.

if you want to learn how to reset the odometer mileage this may help you learn on how to. They all work the same approach.

Learn how to reset odometer mileage

Thursday, August 13, 2020

Yamaha Sniper 155 VVA will not be launched until 2021


There are many speculations before that the New Monarch of the road in Asia known as the SNIPER 155 in the Philippines and Singapore, Exciter 155 in Vietnam and Thailand , Jupiter 155 in Indonesia,and YZF15 in Malaysia will be launched this year. Upon reading many articles about the news. It was been supposedly be launch 4th quarter of 2020, but being proposed to be launch instead on 2021. So to many anticipating. Thrift all you can, save money as you can. There will be lots of time to do that and buy this next year.

Other speculations was that the headlight have to be revised. Looking at this year model side by side with the Honda Winner rival.
It looks like, yes the headlight of the 2021 looks like a small version of the RS150 of Honda. The side by side is the earlier model.

2021 Yamaha Sniper 155 speedometer panel was changed. 

For the current version of the Yamaha Sniper, it is a 150cc engine, but with the new model that we can see from this picture, Sources have reported that it will be equipped with a 155cc 4-valve engine, 6-speed gearbox with variable valve VVA system that will provide consistent acceleration in all speed ranges, a child engine. The same is used in such as YZF-R15, MT-15, XSR155.

Which the arrival of the new engine It will make the feeling of driving Yamaha Sniper is definitely different. Will find that it is quite slimmer than the model currently on sale And the lines that used to be sharp have been adjusted to look even more rounded Especially the design of the motorcycle headlights that will clearly differentiate from the original

In terms of the features of the new Sniper, sources have reported that there will be a remote key system. Which is very interesting with an equipped  USB socket for charging various electronic devices. The lighting system of the motorcycle is a LED with a new digital display screen.

So we should be able to see the official launch of the All New Yamaha Exciter 155 in early 2021. What do you say about the headlight from the previous one?

Honda Click Speedometer Repair

 Honda Click 125 and 150 speedometer is notorious for having a blue screen or blackout issue that many was wondering what went wrong. So you all came to the right place to seek advise and possibly some tips on how to avoid such. But first let me show you the front area of the speedometer.

Let us analyze the possibility of the number 1 issue to where the water can penetrate inside to create havoc inside the speedometer that even if u put a tint sticker on the front lens will not solve the problem.

The lens is water proof of course.But how about those two selection buttons below that clear lens.If u see it then that is where the water is penetrating inside. See the space in between the cover and the rubber seal of the switch. It is actually not waterproof. During rainy days and motorcycle washing. Water stays on the gutter or the spaces in between them. As you are pressing the switch and water still remains on the gutter, The water will eventually goes inside. Just a water droplet to the board and you will have a dead speedometer in due time.

This is what happened to this speedometer unit. Before the unit was repaired. The entire board is covered with oxidation and oxidation exist when water on the board was dried by time. After tracing some open traces and replaces all oxidized parts. The video states it all.

Tuesday, August 11, 2020

Koso speedometer Odometer MILEAGE RESET

Reset Mileage 

This article will discuss on how to reset the mileage of a KOSO digital speedometer. It is not actually very easy to do, since there will be decoding progress to which address of the EEPROM (electronically erasable programmable read-only memory). Then you will have to unsolder and remove the lcd from the board to access the chip. The EEPROM is where a MCU stored everything like settings, trip meter data, backlight data and the mileage . When the unit is powered down. The last display you saw on the LCD will display it the same as you power the unit on again. Without the eeprom. The new data will not be restored and you will lose all your setting and gets to default on what the firmware of the MCU was configured originally. 

The photo above was the reset value. In a KOSO speedometer for Mio Sporty. The only settings you can reset by external switches are the TRIP A as shown,
the TRIP B,
the OIL change counter,
and the MAX stored data of the reading
that will stay there as long as you doesn't follow the Hold button for a brief seconds to reset them. Again you can all reset them by an external switch by holding that switch for 2 seconds on each as you select them on that button.

Now how about the ODOMETER MILEAGE counter.
You simply cannot do it without accessing the data being written and stored on an EEPROM. This was the original VALUE prior to do the decoding of the eeprom data and it was not easy . There are a lot of things changing on the data on the HEXADECIMAL configuration. Process of soldering, and desoldering that EEPROM to read using an EEPROM programmers available to find what particular address those trip a, trip b, oil counter and even the settings of the entire unit.

But how to find the external EEPROM of the MCU. 

Normally, almost all digital speedometers that changes data as you are using it has an EEPROM. and not all MCU or microcontroller has a dedicated internal EEPROM to rear and write to it. Other's are fixed firmware. To know what are the examples of EEPROM. Use GOOGLE and search for any information about such.

So in the case of this KOSO speedometer. The EEPROM used was the 24xxxx series. 24LC02B.

And after removing it on the board. Wait!!!

You might be asking where it was located..It is placed on the top layer of the koso board which is been covered by LCD. So to gain access to it..YOU HAVE TO DESOLDER the LCD on the board which is the hardest thing to do at first. Patience and a lot of soldering skill is needed. and a word of CAUTION!!!..do not pull out the LCD if the connecting pins aren't the loose, or you will strip all copper foil path since the koso board is a double layer printed circuit board. So always bear that in mind when dealing with double layer PCB's. Both top and bottom layer have SOLDER in it. Patience is your KEY to unlock something. And after removing the LCD . You gain access that was hidden underneath as shown.
The MCU is the main heart of the unit. The firmware is written. Beside it as always is your EEPROM. It is an SOIC8. with part number 24LC02B. tagged U1  you cannot read it if it is still connected on the board. It is not an ISP(in serial programming)..It must be desoldered and remove.

With your EEPROM programmer..READ the data by selecting the right device on your software. Connect the hardware to the chip, hit the read button. Then save. And you will have some written data on HEXADECIMAL form. Very intriguing right. and a pain in the brain. I myself do not know each. And decoding it is time consuming. After all we only need the location of the specific sata that is allocated for the ODOMETER MILEAGE COUNTER..
On my part..my data read and shown. That is the actual data. Now the trick here is find what address is changing when you reset something like the TRIP A data from the actual..to ZERO value..and when I did try reset the TRIP A Value of 517.5km to ZERO and read again the data back. By comparing the ORIGINAL data.( NO RESET) The difference is noticeable.
This is the side by side data of the NON reset and the TRIP A reset only.. Those underlined values are no longer the same. Hence on that part of the data. You will LEARN and KNOW where the TRIP A meter data is being access and written, But not all. There is a specific address that keeps on changing as the data is being modified. Once there is a new incoming data. There is also a specific counter for it. located on ADDRESS 0000B0 and 0000C0..Just pay attention to other data posted.

I know, it is difficult. That is why I made this article. For at least we can learn something from it.

So as I continue with it..we want to know the next location of another data which is the TRIP B now. solder the chip again back to the board. Turn on the KOSO and perform the TRIP B reset..Here I also have the 517.5km value same as TRIP A..But in the ORIGINAL DATA that was read. There is no same address that has the same VALUE...Weird!!!..but after the reset and reading the EEPROM again. Here is what it turns out.
.By comparing the TRIP A reset only to trip a and B reset data. The TRIP A address didn'change and another address changes value. Thus the next TRIP B addresses was known. And the data counter address 0000B0 and 0000C0 also changes. All underlined values is the possible data location for the TRIP B..

So what if now I reset the OIL CHANGE COUNTER..This counter is a down counter..It means it reads from the stored OIL CHANGE in KILOMETER and when it reaches Zero..a warning light will be visible on the speedometer. meaning the motorcycle is due for oil change based on the OIL MILEAGE DATA that has been set on the menu.

In my display said it was 1483km form the original 2000km that was set. It means I need 1,483 kilometers more to have a change oil. That is the function of the Display. 

Now reading the data again after resetting it and goes to 2000..by comparing both trip a and b reset to trip a-b and oil counter.
Another address was change. No changes on the reset TRIP A and B..hence another location of data. Once again the counter 0000B0 and 0000C0 changes..

Thus from all of this reset and reading data of the eeprom. The Address location of TRIP A, TRIP B and OIL CHANGE COUNTER was known but not the ODOMETER MILEAGE COUNTER. But by understanding the original FIRST DATA READ..We can understand fully enough the location of an address that didn't changes with the whole reset thing of other parameters. 

But in the first part of the article I mentioned that also the settings of the MENU on this speedometer is also written on the EEPROM..Those preset data always written on the first address of any EEPROM. thus Address 000000 and 000010 must be the same and all other Address must be 00..except the 0000B0 and 0000C0..on this particular unit...

By rewriting all zero on the buffers starting from address 000030 all the way down to 0000A0.
The Mileage data will also be reverted back to ALL ZERO. like what I did. Note that the all not zero was rewritten automatically by the MCU..since I tested the odometer if it is running and counting  that is why i have 00001.0km on the display. with all menu settings unchanged.

The mileage is now RESET.

Disclaimer: Tampering your original mileage for the purpose or intention of selling the unit to gain profit is illegal globally. I will not be held responsible for your action. The unit being reset here was a defective unit and to be able to sell only the speedometer as it should be. I have to reset it to zero. That is the only purpose.


Thursday, January 16, 2020


Honda CRF250L fuel meter problem, keeps on blinking even if the gas tank was full. DO you have such problem like this.

Guess what!, you are at the right place, that is, If your choices are looking for someone that will fix it or just trying to get the juice out of someones head. They are two different person.

How it happened?

Electrical issue? Aged of the motorcycle issue? or other external issue that cause it to function erratically?


Every electronic circuits built out there are susceptible to errors, may it be small or huge, once it gets error it will just stay forever, until its fixed by someone who knows electronics. It was a course in tertiary. not everyone can understand it by just watching videos elsewhere.

Electronic repairs wasn't made for Do it yourself. That includes understanding it from the bottom. Theory, how test every components in the circuit, how to isolate a part of the circuit. Just everything that pertains to "HOW everything works in the circuit"

Can't understand do you? Then just buy a brand new. There's always an option to buy a new Speedometer Panel.

Expensive? well at least you find an instant solution.

Want to spare some bucks out of it.

Repairs? guess that's an option.

But where?

Sometimes I myself search for someone who can do stuff for me if i don't have any clue on how to fix something out of my league. Perhaps maybe the case for you. I would think why you ARE HERE!!! looking for solution.

Wednesday, January 08, 2020

Stock Vs LED headlight

Stock headlight uses filament bulbs that is powered by Alternating Current source generated by the stator side of a small motorcycle that uses Half wave configuration. Full wave conversion doesn't have an AC power sources thus all lighting system of this configuration is redirected to battery power sources.

For example, a Shogun Pro 125cc by Suzuki, and the headlight is powered by AC and not DC. It is very obvious that when you can only turn on your headlight when the engine is running. The configuration is Half Wave and headlight is AC driven. Many are confused between AC and DC. To know more about it, try reading Headlight system.

Stock system does not rely on battery, even if without a battery, you can have a headlight as long as the engine is running and an AC power is present on the stator with a voltage regulator that clips the voltage to a desired level not to burn the filament of the bulb, while as those DC system or directly connected to battery, once your battery runs out of power possibly due to bad charging system then say hello to blackout or no headlight scenario when traversing the road at night.

I'm confused??? In easy term. AC driven headlight does not need a battery, while as DC headlight needs a healthy battery and charging system at the same time.

But I need to enhance my driving lights at night since my stock headlight is too dim to light up the road I am traversing? First of all, I already given a way on how to improve the stock headlight using AC powered sources. Since there is enough juice that can be utilize in order to maximize the voltage being fed to the bulb. Try this Headlight booster. Been using it since I discovered on how to improve it. And serves me well.

But then the era of LED HEADLIGHT comes into the open. I was one of those enthusiast who uses LED in my many application however when it comes to replacing my very reliable STOCK BULB headlight never came to my SENSES. WHY???

When a LED HEADLIGHT is to replace the stock filament bulb on your motorcycle. AC driven sources surely will not work since the voltage of an AC driven headlight is fluctuating and the voltage varies with the engine RPM. In short. the filament bulb will be intensified as the engine RPM is rising and just being clipped by the HALF WAVE regulator to a desired optimum voltage of 12 to 13 volts to ensure the bulb will not burned out. IF SO HAPPEN the bulb get busted by sudden surge of AC, then there is a failing regulator. It is not because you have a dead BATTERY. .or what soever electrical problem may arise.

LED HEADLIGHT needs a constant power sources. a DC or Direct Current system of power source. SO here comes your battery.

When the stock headlight bulb is replaced by LED headlight. Power needs rerouting, thus rewiring is needed. Will not discuss it here though.

And that because the headlight has been redirected to your battery, it means additional LOADING on your DC power source, that also powers your Speedometer if it is Digital, signal lights, brake lights and Ignition. and as time goes by, the discharge rate of the battery becomes suspicious for not everyone knew, LED may be a small current utilizer with those small devices, but when it comes to HGH POWER LED. or HPL, they are.

It was already a misconception by many hobbyist that uses HPL. they thought about using it but not knowing the disadvantage of it. Did I say DISADVANTAGES!!!. well hell yeah. and at the end of this article. I'll tell all of them.

HPL comes and varies according to wattage. In an Ohms law of Electricals. As the wattage is rising so as the current, even if the voltage stay constant, current is the most important electrical characteristic the LED needs to perform normally.

Let us say for example a 20W Led Headlight. For motorcycle use. The voltage is 12 volts. Watts and voltage was given but not the current.

So, How much current that LED needs to run efficiently? Can't compute? try this conversion

1.67 Amps.....is your answer. That will be used on the battery. That will be the current UTILIZED to power that 20W LED by the battery. INSANE right?

And as the higher the specification of the LED HEADLIGHT used, so as the current. Don't be misjudge by someone telling you...IT CONSUME LESS than STOCK...as I've said..STOCK FILAMENT BULB is not relying to your battery, but on the stator AC power source. Thus, converting your stock to LED will give you problems as you are using them everyday. OHMS law was there for a reason and it never wrong.

Then here comes the FULL WAVE CONVERSION

The only reason why everyone is trying this was to compensate for the additional loading on the battery and for those who are using LED HEADLIGHT. Other's tend to increase battery capacity from the normal 4AH type of Maintenance free battery to a higher specification.

It will work for quite a longer period of time, but as time goes on, battery gone depleted again. WHY? As the battery capacity increased and used. How about the current being INJECTED to it. Will the full wave conversion be enough to compensate really the 1.67 amps being drawn to the battery by the LED HEADLIGHT on my example.?

Answer: User ability to determine the balance of the system. In short. Duration of usage of those additional accessories installed. The total current being drawn.... (Which was the primarily underestimated thing by USERS only and not knowledgeable person on electronics and electrical.)

Thus, before going into conclusion of changing your Stock headlight to LED headlight just to make you see the road clearly ahead during Night time riding. Ask yourself first and understand the system. Not just because LED HEADLIGHT was being thought as "MATIPID" (Consume less)..There'll be no replacement on AC driven lighting.

And to sum this up here are the advantages and disadvantages of both. Sample video here:
 Stock vs Led headlight when turned on or both on.


  • will run without depleted battery and or no battery at all
  • can be changed easily since plug and play
  • utilizes the inside reflector of your headlight assembly thus scattering the light in a wider area
  • wider range of voltage input that the intensity will vary
  • no battery consumption at all
  • cheaper
  • longer life if voltage stay within limits not to burn the filament
  • factory default easy to fix 
  • does no have longer glare that incoming motorist be compromised


  • If the reflector is bad, so as the light beam so clean the reflector by soft cloth if it is not shiny
  • intensity varies with the engine rpm since it is ac driven
  • low color temperature no higher than 4000k so the beam is warmer color



  • cooler color temp, can reach up to 8000k depends on the type.
  • has it own lenses that can be utilize might it be wide or spot beam
  • good light intensity on fully dark roads.


  • needs to run with healthy battery, cannot be run by AC or fluctuating voltages
  • specific angle of light, stock reflector cannot be utilize efficiently
  • needs constant current driving circuits
  • 50,000 hours of life or less
  • since battery powered, will deplete battery even more than usual
  • expensive and needs rewiring and power rerouting
  • cannot be used as AHO as law states, lessen the lifespan if turned on always due to working hours
  • Beam can temporarily blind incoming motorists if not placed properly
  • low efficiency on wet roads since reflection bounces on it due to color temp

Those are my opinion. If not used properly. LED HEADLIGHT is a pain for other motorist especially incoming traffic. And as a LED enthusiast. I only used them when needed. But been using the stock filament bulb since 2004 and have no problems with it. But with many ignorant not humane users of this LED HEADLIGHT, i installed one on my 16 years old Shogun Pro just to have them taste what they have and maybe think about placing them properly so not to compromise my own safety during night time, and most of the time it works and the turn it off or dimmed theirs when they gave, and for those innocent users out there..

BE RESPONSIBLE using the LED HEADLIGHT..proper placement is needed especially the beam. Irregardless of what you have.