tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-92171134858724216952024-03-28T07:53:30.233+08:00Techy at day, Blogger at noon, and a Hobbyist at nightAnything about motorcycles and led lighting solutions, led headlight, CNC hobby, how to make, DIY maintenance, reviews, educational articles.MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.comBlogger203125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-47113669675205972402024-02-12T17:07:00.000+08:002024-02-12T17:07:00.129+08:00Sound Magus C160 repair<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Car power sub amplifiers is always a beauty having it when wanting more kick on that bass when playing up beat music. There are so many to choose from. Ever heard about SOUND MAGUS power amplifiers? Well man! From the outside it really look sturdy and built to last. All aluminum casing, the mainboard is a beauty too, but also subjective to failure.<div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Hear i will show you. This is a SOUND MAGUS C160 power amplifier and in need of repair. It just died. It does not power on. Sometime, the switchmode converter circuit has been the culprit. The circuit transform the 12v power input to split rail supply needed to supply the amplifier circuit and the preamplifier.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>So common you can see a TL494C ic controller. Almost all car power amplifiers uses it. Even the ATX supply of desktop computers uses it. A common on every switchmode power supplies.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>This 160 car amp board is made with smd components and not the ordinary hole thru electronic parts. Repairing it is complex than the later. But even without a schematic diagram to deal with as long as you know how to read and trace every components attach to it. You'll never be lost in repairing it.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>After thorough inspection first. We can see corrosions. It means moisture before was present. Green powder stuff was visible, and when it is there. We know it eaten some of the copper traces and even some smd components.</div><div><br></div><div>Capacitors must be checked every one of them. Amplifier sound output depends on them a lot and when they fail, everything fails. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>First remove a single capacitor and test. If the value is not near the stamp value. You will know for sure everything a like will be the same </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>After removing the filter capacitors of the power supply section. More corrosion is present underneath the part. So that is why the unit is a total deadset. Clean by electronic board cleaner, scrape the green stuff and put UV activated PCB coating. Join all broken traces.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Replaced all cap with new ones. </div><div><br></div><div>The problem of this C160 car amplifier are dried smd electrolytic capacitor, broken copper traces due to corrosion, bad tl494c IC and corroded external components. </div>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-42140596768319742812023-07-31T10:46:00.000+08:002023-07-31T10:46:00.138+08:00ROYAL ENFIELD HIMALAYAN gauge repair<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Every digital speedometers may it be underbone, scooters, sports bike or even those adventure motorcycle is not waterproof and precautionary measures must be done to avoid getting damage by water especially during rainy season. Here in my country during this time. The weather is wet and digital speedometers is not invulnerable to water.<div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>In this article. I will ahow you how water is damaging a unit. A client sends his unit for repair. As we talked, unit owner tells that it is a BLACKOUT unit and it was due to water getting inside. Well not surprised about the blackout or non functional no power unit. Water turned to acid after drying out creating oxidation on some parts.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Before I opened the unit. There was already some signs of water that dries out on the top cover lens. From there, it seems I am in for a terrible surprise when I see the mainboard.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>And indeed some green powder stuff. Visual inspection shows damage even on some critical components of the mainboard. Not a good sign. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Moving on. Never powered the unit with this kind of oxidation present on the board. It must be clean first by iso alcohol. Not water, not rubbing alcohol and not contact cleaner and wd40. Cleaning agent should evaporate quickly. A must. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>When water dries out. It turns to a light acid that continuosly eating pins of IC and smd components. Some board has an insulating varnish coating to protect them but this board doesn't have one. No protection at all.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Clean the board thorouhly using anti static brush to remove all oxidation. Then using magnifying glass, inspect the IC pins for broken pin, copper traces.</div><div><br></div><div>After cleaning and the board and is totally dry, it can be supplied with power. Do not expect it to power up initially. Chances are it is still in a blackout condition and troubleshooting for voltages commence.</div><div><br></div><div>This himalayan speedometer got too many smd parts with missing contacts with the board and needed replacement.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>After replacing. Voila. It is alive.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>By the way oscillator of the main microcontroller Ic was replaced too since the unit at first does not initializing. </div><div><br></div><div><br></div>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-56362590183744804662023-03-23T11:52:00.001+08:002023-03-23T11:52:08.718+08:00Suzuki Shogun 125 Speedometer connector PINOUT<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWLYpPe3yFUe7-Yeouxy_NU64zsMQ5aWISV9aVlKXoo37SJQrlcfovW8cOOitcvAv-g4Eo3ec8Ldjt9YtVFB3n3zEE3tlj5TdT11e12KKh-Ba2J8PojbyO-Q83AN-dHdBA125pDHZaPRnmwAaiKiuC7o4MizA6sEvAnkLK7t9AwlqpKqe444dfcD6P/s1600/1677567009529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWLYpPe3yFUe7-Yeouxy_NU64zsMQ5aWISV9aVlKXoo37SJQrlcfovW8cOOitcvAv-g4Eo3ec8Ldjt9YtVFB3n3zEE3tlj5TdT11e12KKh-Ba2J8PojbyO-Q83AN-dHdBA125pDHZaPRnmwAaiKiuC7o4MizA6sEvAnkLK7t9AwlqpKqe444dfcD6P/w400-h400/1677567009529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Suzuki Shogun 125 model FD125XRM speedometer connector pin out label for those who wishes to trace problems on their instrument panel gauges. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqtxc1VWBTrf7TOXZaJFSjXkTX5bR7JuZTfmm8_muxhT9Cs-j0ai8f5-b5k1Gj3s9jeyPd6OJFM9-VyGRfRMuki7IytG3luivNFDpLtusbp_ouw2t9o9LscceSUNKhPzoFAMpfEGcvPIklEODeoX4QiNOaXq2O3DucmeC8ilZvjiMPfwEdNUmu6uac/s4000/IMG_20230323_110204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="4000" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqtxc1VWBTrf7TOXZaJFSjXkTX5bR7JuZTfmm8_muxhT9Cs-j0ai8f5-b5k1Gj3s9jeyPd6OJFM9-VyGRfRMuki7IytG3luivNFDpLtusbp_ouw2t9o9LscceSUNKhPzoFAMpfEGcvPIklEODeoX4QiNOaXq2O3DucmeC8ilZvjiMPfwEdNUmu6uac/w400-h180/IMG_20230323_110204.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />This labelling will help out those who wanted to DIY trace their speedometer if there is a problem inside or just wiring issues. <br /><br />Those that are labelled with tap to ground means to light the indicator light and see if it is not busted.<br /><br />Caution: Do not put anything on the speed sensor supply out. There is a voltage present on that PIN and only used for the speed sensor supply to work.<p></p>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-58800207882005672892023-03-18T21:29:00.001+08:002023-03-18T21:29:56.024+08:00YAMAHA FZ6 SS lcd sunburn<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Even the Yamaha Fz6SS is not exempted from the harsh power of ultraviolet rays. Here you can see the problem at the center of the instrument panel gauge. If this happens, the lcd display is no longer visible.<div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Repairing this kind of problem is a no brainer. The polarizing film of the lcd needs to be replaced, but by analyzing the speedometer itself. There is no screws to open it. Instead, the back cover is GLUED on top of the front cover.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>So how it can be opened. By cutting the casing in half using a dremel and a mini cutting disc. Inspect the case and you will be able to spot where to begin cutting by following the area where the possible location of the two cases meet up. It is visible.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>So after opening the casing. Not just a LCD sunburn was the problem. The unit got some water marks on the mainboard means water penetrated inside.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Corrosion starter and some smd resistors was eaten by oxidation. Cleaning the board is a must using ISO ALCOHOL for electronic board. Do not use 70% iso. It has water content. Use the pure one to remove those water oxide to stop damaging the board even further.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Removing the lcd does not need solderingnor desoldering. It uses rubber contact to the board secured by metal frame. After removal this photo shows the center area burned. Back polarizing film is the damage part.</div><div><br></div><div>Be extra careful when frying the old film. The LCD is so thin and can break easily. PATIENCE is the key. 45 degree film is needed. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>After replacing the film should now look like this.</div><div><br></div><div><b><u>Disclaimer</u></b>: THIS IS NOT A DIY kind of thing. If you have problems like this seek a know how person to this for you. If the LCD BREAKS by mishandling. There is no replacement and the unit will be wasted.</div><div><br></div><div><a href="https://fb.watch/jltnhdq0c_/">FZ6SS instrument panel gauge repair</a><br></div>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-24030381431342418992022-12-15T10:35:00.003+08:002022-12-15T10:35:27.695+08:00Suzuki Sixteen 150cc (UX-150) never been released in the Philippines, WHY?<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhgQOr2oowu7QYwVd7dk0S7uIFRGM08eXQ0BEshe9JotogyHkWCj7NmcoRdYiALgxGzElnOPSQI97c_umku2uNwfrGcg4KAwJ4yEqjAOdVCSE_HWRMmva9Ds-FVlMvMhplJ3wwsDtkrnT77_HkeSCEKGzc_GYGx_xIoxgOyDdjIycxVp1LZVJOMlwI/s1024/suzuki-sixteen-150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhgQOr2oowu7QYwVd7dk0S7uIFRGM08eXQ0BEshe9JotogyHkWCj7NmcoRdYiALgxGzElnOPSQI97c_umku2uNwfrGcg4KAwJ4yEqjAOdVCSE_HWRMmva9Ds-FVlMvMhplJ3wwsDtkrnT77_HkeSCEKGzc_GYGx_xIoxgOyDdjIycxVp1LZVJOMlwI/w400-h266/suzuki-sixteen-150.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />SUZUKI MOTORCYCLE PHILIPPINES bring this BABY Home!!! Stop fooling Philippine Market about your ugly Frankenstein!!!<p></p><p>Suzuki scooters in Asia was far the worst models ever assembled for Asian communities of riders in comparison to Honda and Yamaha that introduces a very good line up of moped to choose like the Yamaha Mio Series. Honda Click series, Yamaha NMAX / TMAX series, Honda Beat Series. What seems happened with Suzuki Asia. Was it poor development or simply the do not want change and compete with those 2 other Asian manufacturers.</p><p>Suzuki was known for good line up 20 years ago. There was Hayate, Skydrive, Address Spin, up until they come up with releasing such unknown moped of Jelato, Neo, Burgman 125 (not even close to their 400 looks) the crossover Philippine market only and now the ugly AVENIS.</p><p>What really went wrong? was it because they are afraid of their Sales? Philippines is not a poor county I should say. Many can afford scooters for it was in demand. But how can they improve their sales if they do not want change and just sticks to what materials they have and just form a frankenstein models out of those old units. Their DESIGNS was total mayhem for Asian Markets.</p><p>Does anyone here knows the Suzuki European market about 10 years ago.</p><p>Why not bring this moped or scooter and test it on the Philippine Market.<br /><br />The SUZUKI SIXTEEN 150cc (UX-150)</p><p>With the looks and sleek and stylish design and the specs is highly competitive. It may be 2010 model it may probably sells more than what their lineup combined.</p><p><br /></p><p><b><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">General information</span></b></p><p>Category:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Scooter</p><p>Year:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>2010</p><p>Model:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Suzuki Sixteen 150</p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p>Engine and Transmission Specifications</p><p>Clutch:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Dry shoe, automatic, centrifugal type</p><p>Gearbox:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Automatic</p><p>Cooling system:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Liquid</p><p>Lubrication system:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Wet sump</p><p>Ignition:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Transistorised</p><p>Fuel control:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>SOHC</p><p>Fuel system:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Injection</p><p>Bore x stroke:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>60.0 x 55.2 mm (2.4 x 2.2 inches)</p><p>Compression:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>112.0:1</p><p>Engine type:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Single cylinder, four-stroke</p><p>Capacity:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>156.00 ccm (9.52 cubic inches)</p><p>Brakes, suspension, Frame and wheels</p><p>Rear brakes:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Single disc. Hydraulic</p><p>Front brakes:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Single disc. Hydraulic</p><p>Rear tyre dimensions:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>100/80-M16</p><p>Front tyre dimensions:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>100/80-M16</p><p>Rear suspension:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Swingarm type, coil spring, oildamped</p><p>Front suspension:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Telescopic, coil spring, oil dampedA</p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p>Physical measures and capacities</p><p>Fuel capacity:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8.50 litres (2.25 gallons)</p><p>Wheelbase:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>1,385 mm (54.5 inches)</p><p>Ground clearance:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>145 mm (5.7 inches)</p><p>Overall width:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>740 mm (29.1 inches)</p><p>Overall length:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>2,060 mm (81.1 inches)</p><p>Overall height:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>1,155 mm (45.5 inches)</p><p>Seat height:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>800 mm (31.5 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting.</p><p>Weight incl. oil, gas, etc:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>142.0 kg (313.1 pounds)</p><p>Dry weight:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>135.0 kg (297.6 pounds)</p><p>Other specs</p><p>Color options:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Smokey silver, sepia brown</p><p>Starter:<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Electric & kick</p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">I been using Suzuki underbone since 2004 and since then I never left them and still looking for alternatives. I am a Suzuki fanatics and since the old days of motorcycle forum here in my country I am very Vocal about their scooters line up. They SUCKS!!!.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZlLd7BykKe1o4ynLAEotxtLQrECnx3SHvdcpizXPowLarhuCZ1Brf3sA-jvt0IYwY0iiq9dVjkcUHL_nm8MA44FLagGaW9Ois_gIhqKzm32supMEuZmqfV5IWrpvGcK-wbVCqZuBY_FZkg2C1n7tdHgXppEokmvUiSaykH1RukP2R6OQVau6rGg1I/s480/Suzuki-Sixteen-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="366" data-original-width="480" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZlLd7BykKe1o4ynLAEotxtLQrECnx3SHvdcpizXPowLarhuCZ1Brf3sA-jvt0IYwY0iiq9dVjkcUHL_nm8MA44FLagGaW9Ois_gIhqKzm32supMEuZmqfV5IWrpvGcK-wbVCqZuBY_FZkg2C1n7tdHgXppEokmvUiSaykH1RukP2R6OQVau6rGg1I/w400-h305/Suzuki-Sixteen-.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMqh4rvBYfI8BkcEbn0vEE43GCNydGyGZ6sDCUnQBJ7i72_qN8X5VL7GXzupp3QdUlkU4HjfyPuEHst_Lxhxl1_mwM6-AyBAnUPyHeBDwjryFQOvK8fvgA2wy9js2gAwBezY3XQbunItBANPY_lxXGgwp5DaUb-PaeIn4-gsW5lBzu3Vm2OXIQ-n33/s1000/test%20suzuki%20sixteen150%202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="665" data-original-width="1000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMqh4rvBYfI8BkcEbn0vEE43GCNydGyGZ6sDCUnQBJ7i72_qN8X5VL7GXzupp3QdUlkU4HjfyPuEHst_Lxhxl1_mwM6-AyBAnUPyHeBDwjryFQOvK8fvgA2wy9js2gAwBezY3XQbunItBANPY_lxXGgwp5DaUb-PaeIn4-gsW5lBzu3Vm2OXIQ-n33/w400-h266/test%20suzuki%20sixteen150%202.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p></p>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-10679478868343238852022-12-13T17:53:00.000+08:002022-12-13T17:53:12.909+08:00Honda CRF150L Speedometer repair<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8_TR7ubAwuLxkbthDmT5ASEo43XR6a6etGS3o3cxgUwOviiv4cAR-77ANjTuXzj9m5HFICccP6hD1WVitYglfd5af6B7hozoVjzEldJOzDkdfr7V_x1L2KptYrqGkO0MDnwWI6zRzwDy0AyfkD5S7zntRUrVRYW2ofbGG5hpklMCIrtFwo1BduiK5/s3264/IMG_20200111_072522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8_TR7ubAwuLxkbthDmT5ASEo43XR6a6etGS3o3cxgUwOviiv4cAR-77ANjTuXzj9m5HFICccP6hD1WVitYglfd5af6B7hozoVjzEldJOzDkdfr7V_x1L2KptYrqGkO0MDnwWI6zRzwDy0AyfkD5S7zntRUrVRYW2ofbGG5hpklMCIrtFwo1BduiK5/w400-h300/IMG_20200111_072522.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Honda CRF150L </span></b>speedometer is notorious for Fuel meter error and or blackout non functional display error due to the design with its two rubber switches on top of the panel. Many digital speedometer has it like Honda Click 125/150 scooter which is common of having a blue screen issue. Just like any speedometer. When there is a rubber cover on the menu and or setup button, rest assure water can penetrate inside.<p></p><p>Picture on the top show those two button on the left most and right most part of the speedometer. That is where the water gets inside.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv5ujXuVsxYUbzFYhVFMFfgwq3bDcjdpo9BJqOj06jjmJF7d3fxQUyewjFl00zTyl68qupeX7INWEYssqdOYSM1_pl8LjkBnInog5E06ArDkq4eFv2kRLr1BL4RC7WAJxZDyakR3TB_ZNgu7_IKVrRTm7Dl4zdkZPbCVrTwtdEWZw0pfC9aPI2OV4h/s3264/IMG_20200110_154713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv5ujXuVsxYUbzFYhVFMFfgwq3bDcjdpo9BJqOj06jjmJF7d3fxQUyewjFl00zTyl68qupeX7INWEYssqdOYSM1_pl8LjkBnInog5E06ArDkq4eFv2kRLr1BL4RC7WAJxZDyakR3TB_ZNgu7_IKVrRTm7Dl4zdkZPbCVrTwtdEWZw0pfC9aPI2OV4h/w400-h300/IMG_20200110_154713.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Open the unit will show you this kind of visual representation of what water when dried will looks like. Those white marks shows that it already on the <b><span style="color: red;">CORROSIVE PROCESS.</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: red;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh69MqCRVHflTAAj6dOgleWT3DVNvCb_t_ROXFWuaxeg-FHrqsN6b4h0zHqxLdLvMhE4hf75GeZh6_sGLaYqg3fSHuBZiqRIJUDZ_vt6eFIxLm0cKcV2wG5xuPaK8D8Yo1vV8R9RkkHdxHZbLsSe86R7cpFpD6_M-Tq2lEfQCfFwfN-Rg_EwGvFG9DF/s853/Honda%20CRF150L%20gauge%204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="853" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh69MqCRVHflTAAj6dOgleWT3DVNvCb_t_ROXFWuaxeg-FHrqsN6b4h0zHqxLdLvMhE4hf75GeZh6_sGLaYqg3fSHuBZiqRIJUDZ_vt6eFIxLm0cKcV2wG5xuPaK8D8Yo1vV8R9RkkHdxHZbLsSe86R7cpFpD6_M-Tq2lEfQCfFwfN-Rg_EwGvFG9DF/w400-h225/Honda%20CRF150L%20gauge%204.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></b></div><b><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p><span>Keep on looking for water marks and clean it thoroughly with a 99% iso alcohol, It is the best cleaning solution for all electronic boards to remove those water marks completely since the alcohol evaporates quickly and no water content like the 70% alcohol.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7AD6B7vtx9gONnaYDeRzWGA24thhCKkhLtQ8dsj2sc8ElS7F-G0ODGqRkbqVMrRxMQA91RfPtzncPlFztZhdhNXvi-GpHsQlTgA4O51Z0KpYHqPVzQiqJxiWaIdjh9akUe2_fXXwcM_QXClW7RaJ5aV5B119tIr1HEUkA0IQe04iM8OkWtJjdMZld/s3264/Honda%20CRF150L%20gauge%202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7AD6B7vtx9gONnaYDeRzWGA24thhCKkhLtQ8dsj2sc8ElS7F-G0ODGqRkbqVMrRxMQA91RfPtzncPlFztZhdhNXvi-GpHsQlTgA4O51Z0KpYHqPVzQiqJxiWaIdjh9akUe2_fXXwcM_QXClW7RaJ5aV5B119tIr1HEUkA0IQe04iM8OkWtJjdMZld/w400-h300/Honda%20CRF150L%20gauge%202.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span><br /></span><p></p><p>When cleaned look for components like SMD resistor and Capacitors that looks eaten away by the corrosion by water everywhere. They are most likely the culprit. If have a soldering skill then that is the most important thing you will do for once a component is being heated and cannot be soldered due to oxidation. That part has already no connection on the board.</p><p>The VIAS also (those holes that connect the front and backside traces of the board is also a CULPRIT of the no connection. <br /><br /><br /></p>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-54026031348709108802022-12-12T22:11:00.002+08:002022-12-13T07:19:42.529+08:00Fluke 85V Troubleshooting <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--K5A-gDeuuY/Y5c2c03jh6I/AAAAAAAAD3E/xmbUhU1scKEKg4ErJ77xx7NSGukwvmhJwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1670854612750267-0.png" width="400">
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</div><div><b>Fluke 85V </b>is not your cheap industrial multitester and the price of this multitester soars high. Of course it is FLUKE! That even a highly sophisticated brand is still susceptible to failure. This unit was shipped for repair and the unit is totally dead, even with a new battery installed. The tester does not turn on.</div><div><br></div><div>At first it was handed over to other troubleshooter here in my country but to no avail. So they sent it to me. The owner did not hesitated.</div><div><br></div><div>Upon opening the unit. I smelled something inside. The board was sprayed with WD40. What the F? board is flooded with that lubricant. What in the world does the first repairman was thinking? Damn!!!</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jJ7OtXcLR-8/Y5c2Z3iJaYI/AAAAAAAAD3A/EF9BOriyh4Ueh6qsuSEKqoGlN4_Wo2dGgCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1670854600718520-1.png" width="400">
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</div><br></div><div>So before getting deeper with the repair. I immediately clean it with the right cleaner to remove the residue of the WD40 on the mainboard. 99% iso alcohol is the best cleaner there is and not 70% alcohol.</div><div><br></div><div>Troubleshooting can be a pain in the brain without any schematic right? Fortunately world wide web offers free download. It helps me even better.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9nHtrTkYP_Q/Y5c2W0VR-LI/AAAAAAAAD28/KB1E48ZQADMA1UlCrefNriQX0jR9U8DUgCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1670854590547173-2.png" width="400">
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</div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Printed it and enlarge them so that I can easily trace the problem. TEST POINTS comes in handy too. Values are all correct on the test point areas. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Fault tracing begins and upon testing all components. Found 1 transistor shorted. Getting further pointed me to a component near the MCU or microprocessor. Since all voltages are of correct values according to the schematic. It just mean the MCU isn't actually working on the right frequency and does the MCU oscillator might be at fault. An Oscilloscope might detect ot easily but I do not have any so I replaced it and VOILA!!! The unit comes alive in no time. Test again all the voltages and still exacly the same.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div>And Then the unit was repaired.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div><br></div><div>One noticable thing on this tester LCD was it already have the so called LCD sunburn issue.</div><div>But for the meantine I'll just leave it that way and when its time to replace the polarizing film, Then will do the job later just like the other FLUKE multitester that was posted earlier on this site that has LCD issue.</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-23077036039884900492022-12-11T16:32:00.003+08:002022-12-11T16:32:50.791+08:00Fluke 75 III multimeter repair<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic2czCZN98TwD_5Qw2yqqSJm2QyhgIKfUXlfKpM-pSYKCozAkOrXoYCepOoydyV-NJ1FO36Fa9RkoiXR8A0RNtvYnMF0mgw4A2Kj86pcH7sAHG4K2ubbwzxR89ss80Tzu7y31yT5yYIjxnf10MB3arXMSSi3vsHbfPgb7nZ259a9L2ZoV_BmcgGBRn/s2000/Fluke%2075III%20LCD.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic2czCZN98TwD_5Qw2yqqSJm2QyhgIKfUXlfKpM-pSYKCozAkOrXoYCepOoydyV-NJ1FO36Fa9RkoiXR8A0RNtvYnMF0mgw4A2Kj86pcH7sAHG4K2ubbwzxR89ss80Tzu7y31yT5yYIjxnf10MB3arXMSSi3vsHbfPgb7nZ259a9L2ZoV_BmcgGBRn/w300-h400/Fluke%2075III%20LCD.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br />Fluke multitester is not your ordinary tester on the market. They are highly reputable when it comes to maintenance equipment and tools. But even they is not vulnerable to harsh environment and they too fail like this one. LCD is no longer functional most probable due to moisture and humidity to where it was stored. <p></p><p>Liquid Crystal Display has a tendency to suffer failure such as this for their composition consisting of layer of polarizing film that when placed properly will those digit be displayed at the correct viewing angle.</p><p>To fix it, of course you need to dismantle it from the mainboard. Gather your needed <b><span style="color: red; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">parts </span></b>such as</p><p>1. polarizing film- you can choose either 0 degree up to 90 degree type of polarizer, </p><p>2. cleaning agent preferred 99% iso alcohol</p><p>3. Sharp bladed for old film removal</p><p>4. piece of cloth that do not leave residue preferred those sunglasses cleaning cloth</p><p>5. a bit of patience and common sense about LCD. what is it, let me tell you about it.<br /><br />LCD FIX common mistake when repairing it. They forgot NOT to wipe the LCD contact part to which it has a carbon traces for the rubber contact onto the board. So when they wipe it so does the carbon contact and after assembling it and test. broke display is all they have and unfortunately it cannot be undone instead of repairing it. They destroy it even further and no longer useful. There is no other way really but to find a replacement LCD if there was any.<br /><br />Inspect the LCD. does it need both film to be replaced or just one. you can tell if both are wrinkled already or not. But on the case of this Fluke Multitester, needs both. Scrape the old film using your sharp blade carefully until the adhesive is gone. Thoroughly clean the glass with your ISO and cloth. <br /><br />Trick on the film. cut the desired size for the LCD and place it first at the back stick it using its own adhesive.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-REdtJAloQnX5RhZSX7_zF1XyeLP33cQc7QrcZ-xltbRcva-1DUl6owEBDW8rs5CSvnmJNc4FJGtSa0CFUqQtji2jopJVLZG6MSB56GJOLF_fQiUzsAFTvD_HBR4U2ZSRbAw_vKdpsUc9c7cblgMQMMQZ5ia4-0U6ix4ncvXPN0mBO4AkqSVKLzb/s3096/side%20by%20side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="3096" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-REdtJAloQnX5RhZSX7_zF1XyeLP33cQc7QrcZ-xltbRcva-1DUl6owEBDW8rs5CSvnmJNc4FJGtSa0CFUqQtji2jopJVLZG6MSB56GJOLF_fQiUzsAFTvD_HBR4U2ZSRbAw_vKdpsUc9c7cblgMQMMQZ5ia4-0U6ix4ncvXPN0mBO4AkqSVKLzb/w400-h259/side%20by%20side.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><br />Assemble the unit back, and still without the front film. just put the UNCUT film on the top and just rotate it until the correct viewing angle of the display is shown on the LCD and it should end like this.<br /><br />Unfortunately I forgot to shoot a photo doing it but just visualize what I am talking about.<p></p><p>Now the FLUKE75III is useful again. Unit is not cheap but repair yes.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHiZL1YgLYdOLvCLfqemZlSF4TCtBqxbHdimun63MEe-QlcP895IGgzuh3849a7oOHPy3VewJc0mulV_oM2pham9zXMGQ_L1-BkgknLvGaxDvadcoIogC5oKHYTyi7lwkO3NEr2DZGKQP8ppaBNbZQ7T6uckzRSsql514F1S8Rv7UJCyEKUr98YDvC/s1920/received_659185205492190.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="944" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHiZL1YgLYdOLvCLfqemZlSF4TCtBqxbHdimun63MEe-QlcP895IGgzuh3849a7oOHPy3VewJc0mulV_oM2pham9zXMGQ_L1-BkgknLvGaxDvadcoIogC5oKHYTyi7lwkO3NEr2DZGKQP8ppaBNbZQ7T6uckzRSsql514F1S8Rv7UJCyEKUr98YDvC/w196-h400/received_659185205492190.jpeg" width="196" /></a></div><br /><p></p>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-5056613888061153492022-12-09T12:42:00.000+08:002022-12-09T12:42:32.341+08:00Shogun Digital Speedometer KOSO STYLE<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rAeDPNuwmp8/Wlm2e7qktpI/AAAAAAAACsE/XpL83Ic2zMQBVKii4_UNp_ak6VWAAdXzACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180113_153153.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rAeDPNuwmp8/Wlm2e7qktpI/AAAAAAAACsE/XpL83Ic2zMQBVKii4_UNp_ak6VWAAdXzACLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20180113_153153.jpg" width="320" /></a>This is a continuation of the digital speedometer by KOSO taiwan, that I modified to accept digital speed sensor, instead of the original cable type used by Yamaha MIO. The modification intended for use with those sensor found on Raider R150, (Satria and or Belang 150), Shogun R and Pro, as well as Shogun Best 125 and Wave 125 S. They used the <a href="https://mastercircuits.blogspot.com/2011/06/speed-sensor.html" target="_blank">Variable Reluctance Sensor</a> fitted at the back of the engine which reads the driveshaft gear of the motorcycle.<br />
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The Koso For MIO original way of reading the speed of the motorcycle when fitted was using a speedometer cable and connected to the picture shown. And the other end of the cable goes to the gear assembly connected on the front wheel hub. Not all motorcycle has that gear assembly for others uses digital sensor I have said before. The question of many was. How can we be able to use the Koso for mio on other motorcycle if we want to modify and use it?<br />
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The answer rely on this article. First we need to understand how the KOSO for MIO works.<br />
Shown is the view of the Koso original speed mechanism.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GYeUxTijhqA/Wlm_AJa41_I/AAAAAAAACsU/W8A6v1wNIKk8QFL7y6e8QZFz3I9myOlsQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180113_160914.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GYeUxTijhqA/Wlm_AJa41_I/AAAAAAAACsU/W8A6v1wNIKk8QFL7y6e8QZFz3I9myOlsQCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_20180113_160914.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TJUeUQYwDNw/WlnAPd6TbEI/AAAAAAAACsg/bIgOlXLh8n4nIm5qP9-Vnlb1SNa4KAc0QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180113_092253.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TJUeUQYwDNw/WlnAPd6TbEI/AAAAAAAACsg/bIgOlXLh8n4nIm5qP9-Vnlb1SNa4KAc0QCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_20180113_092253.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--uU3pYuEunQ/WlnEXRjNX8I/AAAAAAAACss/Mq22GXjBMF0MW_E4DR8IP_UbeOFO-2FxwCLcBGAs/s1600/gr-velocity-2_1.gif" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>The magnet rotates on a hall sensor soldered on the PCB board of the Kos by the speedometer cable attached. When this magnet rotates on top of that hall sensor, It produces magnetism<br />
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The Hall sensor I am telling all of you about is shown on this photo.It will be remove for the modification to work later on because an external circuit will replace that hall sensor as an additional pulse shaping adapter for the Variable reluctance sensor. Both sensor differs in many ways, so by just replacing the latter to the hall sensor will definitely not going to work properly.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--uU3pYuEunQ/WlnEXRjNX8I/AAAAAAAACss/Mq22GXjBMF0MW_E4DR8IP_UbeOFO-2FxwCLcBGAs/s1600/gr-velocity-2_1.gif" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="138" data-original-width="260" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--uU3pYuEunQ/WlnEXRjNX8I/AAAAAAAACss/Mq22GXjBMF0MW_E4DR8IP_UbeOFO-2FxwCLcBGAs/s1600/gr-velocity-2_1.gif" /></a><b><span style="color: blue;">HALL SENSOR</span></b>--<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;">A </span><span style="background-color: white; font-weight: bold;">Hall</span><span style="background-color: white;"> effect </span><span style="background-color: white; font-weight: bold;">sensor</span><span style="background-color: white;"> is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to a magnetic field. </span><span style="background-color: white; font-weight: bold;">Hall </span><span style="background-color: white;">effect </span><span style="background-color: white; font-weight: bold;">sensors</span><span style="background-color: white;"> are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection, and current sensing applications.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> </span></span><br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c44BmVGeWQM/WlnFdrRN0XI/AAAAAAAACs4/O5rQhSELshY2SeEa3Vziz4vP_ot62m0-wCLcBGAs/s1600/magnetic-pickup-rpm-sensor-graph.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="271" data-original-width="476" height="182" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c44BmVGeWQM/WlnFdrRN0XI/AAAAAAAACs4/O5rQhSELshY2SeEa3Vziz4vP_ot62m0-wCLcBGAs/s320/magnetic-pickup-rpm-sensor-graph.png" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: red;">VARIABLE RELUCTANCE SENSOR</span> </span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">use variations in magnetic-field densities created by changes in reluctance within a magnetic circuit. It has its own magnet, and changes on that magnetic field produces pulse.</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">So their principle on how they work differ thus if we just replace one another without an additional circuit will definitely not able to work and produces irregular speed reading. I tried it already. A <b><i>20 kph</i></b> reading on the original hall sensor will give out <b><i>300kph</i></b> on the reluctance and even with the lowest calibration possible of the software of the unit, still gives a high speed reading.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">At first I tried replicating the original speed sensor circuitry of the original Shogun 125 (FD125XRM) panel board. I mean the ORIGINAL OEM speedometer assembly, But for unknown reason still fail with my test, until a friend brought me something. A replacement speedometer assembly of the shogun. A direct replacement to the OEM which has a different circuitry. I analyze that circuit and manage to extract that single block that allows the pulse to be shaped entering the micro controller IC that is easier to understand rather than the complicated MCU of the original OEM panel.<br /><br />Sorting the single block the performs the duty of pulse shaping. and isolating it. I made it worked on the KOSO and use the reluctance sensor. VOILA!!!! it did work.</span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /><br />I made a stand alone PCB using the same components and put it on single sided board. I used <a href="https://www.diptrace.com/" target="_blank">Diptrace Circuit maker</a> for making the outline and transfer it to the PCB for etching. To make it smaller, I used SMD components. and the final etched was so small, i have nothing to worry placing the add on circuit at the back of the KOSO board.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">The variable reluctance sensor needs an external supply to work since the original OEM panel board was replaced to where it was getting own supply. It needs to be supplied otherwise by the koso board which is 5 volts. Red wire comprises it directly to the original connector of the shogun panel..Note the KOSO has its own connector so be advice to work out on it on how to re wire everything without cutting wire, so that when you want to return the original speedometer panel of shogun..just pull out the koso and fit the original as plug and play..Always make it a habit that when you do such modification..do not alter the original wiring for EASE of access later on when everything fail.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div>Photos <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4rhFA9mckvCOdRZCzYLLinygIuPsO_Ag7juP7Ljy3asjLn6S6lT-PliJOET67KSy1n-up1st8OVxGjVqAxPG0eNwhqbWDg7udBjfkby_5AVSqWUIZ8dFSn30YhTakbcMcGLoXgWjvIwkq8kBo6rGKbBquYj1SiS5zvuZWctvRuTzV3XTyNcWWFsV-/s4000/IMG_20220207_114825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="4000" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4rhFA9mckvCOdRZCzYLLinygIuPsO_Ag7juP7Ljy3asjLn6S6lT-PliJOET67KSy1n-up1st8OVxGjVqAxPG0eNwhqbWDg7udBjfkby_5AVSqWUIZ8dFSn30YhTakbcMcGLoXgWjvIwkq8kBo6rGKbBquYj1SiS5zvuZWctvRuTzV3XTyNcWWFsV-/w400-h180/IMG_20220207_114825.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-38547664165852847852022-12-09T12:33:00.001+08:002022-12-09T12:50:13.299+08:00BMW f700GS instrument gauge failure<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-70tjjNrkrpI/Y3TEYF1RSdI/AAAAAAAADy8/PjwAXHY--_4RRGRXJOOrC7WFc5UUrKv9QCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1668597165567898-0.png" width="400" />
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</div><div>This <b><u><span style="color: #2b00fe;">BMW F800 adventure</span></u></b> is known for the intermittent and blackout issues, but more often was the blackout non functional unit. There has been many that I repaired and they are all the same may it be brand new or old unit. It has something to do with the <b><span style="color: red;">battery</span></b>. If it gets low on charge, highly possible that the panel will stop working so does the defective voltage regulator that induces the non regulated charging method on the battery.</div><div><br /></div><div>Unit has only 6 pins and you can always power it on the worktable.<br /><br /><b><span style="color: red; font-size: medium;">PINOUT</span></b><br /><br />1 - CAN BUS communication A<br />2 - CAN BUS communication B</div><div>3 - B+<br />4 - GND</div><div>5 - Alarm (connected to the positive maybe from after IGNITION SWITCH</div><div>6 - Not connected<br /><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-53885459103885613932022-11-27T14:26:00.002+08:002022-12-09T10:48:02.889+08:00CBR1100 Blackbird instrument panel restorationHello readers, been away for so long and have not updated the blog, but anyway will try my best to update it when ever I have something done for all your references.<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Honda CBR 1100 blackbird instrument gauge panel repair. i tried looking everywhere for such that thoroughly highlighted the repair in forums, articles but there's none. Hopefully this page will get you with it if u want to DIY the repair.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The problem are both LCD got sunburn that wrinkled the top and bottom film. This is a usual problem that any one with a LCD type speedometer panel on their motorcycle. The ling exposure to direct sunlight will destroy the film either the top or the bottom one will create a no display scenario on your speedometer.</div><div><br /></div><div>Opening the case to access the internals does not need any special skills. Just open the unit to disassemble it.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>After opening, you can now access the too film of both LCD. On some ocassion, the top film is the last to be damaged by the sun. More often is the bottom that contains silver coated polarizer that will look like this if sunburned. The top wrinkled film was already removed.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>And to access the bottom side, desoldering the LCD pins on the mainboard is needed and soldering know how is a must.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Remove the solder using desoldering tool, solder wick will not do the trick. Make sure the LCD pins are all loose before removing it on the mainboard that may cause damage to the entire lcd connection within the glass. It is fragile and can break and if do so it is GAME OVER!!</div><div><br /></div><div>Now scrape the old film using blade. Process is long and care must be put into perspective slowly but surely will do the trick.</div><div><br /></div><div>Clean the glass with 99% iso alcohol to remove excess adhesive left and the glass should be clean before putting the new film.</div><div><br /></div><div>Film generally has what you called degrees. Namely 0, 45, 90 degrees there is no exact cutout so cut one from what you have and orient it to display the alphanumeric normally.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The LCD should look clean and not as of it was black. INVERTED display sucks at daytime thus orient the film right before adhering it on the lcd glass front and back.</div><div><br /></div><div>Trick, if by chance no idea on what orientation of the film, put the backside film first, then resolder it on the board. Power on the unit and placed the front film on top of the lcd then as you are rotating the film 0 to 180 degree find the clear and cleanest display. Thant way you know now the correct orientation. Cut the desired dimension then placed and adhere the top film..Good to go!</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Backlight can be change too by the way. It uses led. </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>if it is difficult as you imagine it, you can always bring your instrument gauge to the person that can do it for you.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div>If u need the PINOUT of the connector side of this kind of instrument gauge of the Honda Blackbird. Say I do in the comments section.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-88838139965234128082022-06-02T23:01:00.001+08:002022-06-02T23:01:49.518+08:00HONDA CLICK 125i game changer speedometer repair<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>HONDA Click 125I game changer speedometer apparently has some serious issues when water penetrated inside on those rubber cover of set and menu switches.Die to very poor design of them floating on the cover lens. It is not secured. That is where water can go inside the speedometer PCB and create havoc destroying or even burning an area due to short circuits made by water when dried on pcb components act as an acid and oxidize those parts.<div><br></div><div>Recently, a friend sent me a unit for REPAIR. below, you'll be surprised of what jas happened to his unit diue to the fact that water already enetered and corroded some parts and burnt an area of his unit.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>burned pcb that damages the copper foil path and some components.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>very visible fried components. Sign there was short circuit on the power rail of this speedometer board.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>damage was unlikely to be resolve but with our determination of replacing damage components and tracing the damage connection between each point.</div><div><br></div><div>Patience is the key. So many smd resistors was replaced, a bunch of smd chip capacitors and diodes.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>item was alive after a while day of repair.</div><div><br></div><div><br><div><br></div><div><br></div></div>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-310161508953984212022-04-29T12:34:00.001+08:002022-04-29T12:34:12.876+08:00Why KOSO fo MIO fail?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M11Ykm8UAWg/YmtqwtPMLVI/AAAAAAAADro/tVgcUEGRhkUEuFkJZVRumWptCIzqxBxzQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1651207057200441-0.png" width="400">
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</div>Koso for mio sporty is one of the best digital speedometer available in the market. It has a lot of functionality such as oil temperature meter, a clock, a battery voltage indicator which is highly accurate, a bar graph tachometer, a big speed reading display with multi selectable backlight color, an air fuel mixture meter if the motorcycle has an oxygen sensor installed on the exhaust system and a calibration menu that will ensure you get the correct speed reading when tire changes in diameter. <div><br></div><div>Unfortunately , there is no such thing as indestructible and KOSO for mio is subjective to one. It also do fail with user negligence.</div><div><br></div><div>I been repairing this kind of speedometer for decades now, and everytime I encounter a problem that even with my superior knowledge on fixing it. If the microcintroller side was highly compromised by external problem such as overvoltage scenario and unit owners dows not have any clue of what was going on inside. Most probably unit will end up unrepairable. </div><div><br></div><div>On this article, I will show you what actually happened on a unit that I shall call.. JUNK UNITS </div><div><br></div><div>Item was sent for repair from neighboring province. At first he sent a video dated February, with the unit showing strobing display. With that scenario. The unit was already needing repairs and components must be replaced not to add insult to injury on the unit. Unfortunately , I do not know what hapoened there after if the still tried putting a power supply on the unit might them thinking there was something loose or yet thinking it will just fix itself. These are typical mindset of users only. </div><div><br></div><div>Upon troubleshooting the unit. I already have a clue that the unit was in deep trouble. After replacing most of the components failing commonly on this kind of unit. I still getting a shorted supply rail which is not a good sign.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div></div><div><br></div><div>And in order to go on deeper and exactly confirmed what was on my mind that the Microcontroller was already compromised and damaged heavily, therenis a need to dismantle the whole LCD which is not an easy task to do without proper tools and skills on using a desoldering tools. Yes many knew how to solder, but not desoldering 2 sided pcb.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div></div><div><br></div><div>Upon removing the lcd from the board, that isthe only time we can see the microcontroller, the heart and soul of the KOSO FOR MIO speedometer. Visual inspection show a tiny hole. Not good.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Getting on the datasheet of the component and testing the supply pin with multi meter. Damn. The feeling of determination to fix this thing turned into sadness. There is no way to fix it. </div><div><br></div><div>An almost $100 dollar unit wasted just like that.</div><div><br></div><div>A word of advice to all who owns a KOSO for Mio sporty speedometer. If it has already a problem or abnormality. Remove the black connector immediately and never attempt trying to power it again. Doing so may end of just like this one. Do not waste your item. It is not cheap.</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-15802811790297945512021-12-02T09:06:00.001+08:002021-12-02T09:06:23.454+08:00Fixing TST integrated tail light for Ninja 400<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Aftermarket parts for sports bike like the Ninja 400 of Kawasaki is not cheap and yet many users tend to buy from a reputable site who thought they are invulnerable or not susceptible to damage. <div><br></div><div>Wrong. In this post a friend of mine handed over his TST programmable tail light of his Ninja 400 that gotten damage by just one essentials of nature. WATER!!!</div><div><br></div><div>That essentials created havoc inside damaging the unit. With the inefficient sealing of the unit especially the top part. Water resided inside, no where to exit and game over. </div><div><br></div><div>Frying the unit was hell, it lens cover was glued. Patience is the real key to open and separate the cover to the body of the tail light. I got into trouble of breaking a part of the lense but good thing it was at the very tip of it.</div><div><br></div><div>Moving on let us take a look inside. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>(actual opening of the unit not shown) as the photo depicted the problem, rust begins to unfold eating any metal. Pins of the led was metal after all and it is where the real problem begin. This unit was still working with dead led arrays and busted leds. Well who here will appreciate a not complete set of illumination at the back of your motorcycle. Inspecting more of the problem is shown in the rest of the photos.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>rust beginning to accumulate and populating the board.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>some LED with rust inside was very visible.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>and to clean the rusted area, ALL LED must be remove. Those led will be replaced. Unsoldering them is kind of a tricky one since the solder already accumulated oxidation and if not careful enough will damage the solder pads even further. Take your time and use solder paste or flux.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>after removing those led. The board can be cleaned with 100% iso alcohol. Some copper traces on the board was already missing and eaten up by the rust. Jumpering is needed.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>these are the led that was remove, many of them no longer illuminate due to missing pins. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>After replacing all the led. </div><div><br></div><div>Note that the original led size was 4mm..and finding replacement will be difficult and the only size that can be use is 3mm. 5mm are those big ones and cannot be used due to spacing. So be noted of that.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>and so after populating the board. Voila complete and working now like a charm.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-8341197484116415472021-11-28T17:42:00.001+08:002021-11-28T17:42:49.133+08:00KOSO for MIO operating manual<p> I know all those who has a Koso for MIO digital speedometer doesn't have any operating manual or misplaced theirs when they bought the unit as brand new. Used ones are those having trouble setting up their unit.<br /><br />Without further ado. here is the manual.<br /><br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpRNwRdOtlg/YaNOdZjz0yI/AAAAAAAADk0/7B1BrUb0dzMaB7Zw6V4nvL8uQfju7lZhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1123/BA516%2BYAMAHA%2BMIO_ENjpg_Page4_Image1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1123" data-original-width="794" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpRNwRdOtlg/YaNOdZjz0yI/AAAAAAAADk0/7B1BrUb0dzMaB7Zw6V4nvL8uQfju7lZhQCLcBGAsYHQ/w283-h400/BA516%2BYAMAHA%2BMIO_ENjpg_Page4_Image1.jpg" width="283" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CE14scTII6U/YaNObDyqrMI/AAAAAAAADko/Jx-vVC17FZ4hziw7RFtOs4VRXEEnn1CggCLcBGAsYHQ/s1123/BA516%2BYAMAHA%2BMIO_ENjpg_Page3_Image1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1123" data-original-width="794" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CE14scTII6U/YaNObDyqrMI/AAAAAAAADko/Jx-vVC17FZ4hziw7RFtOs4VRXEEnn1CggCLcBGAsYHQ/w283-h400/BA516%2BYAMAHA%2BMIO_ENjpg_Page3_Image1.jpg" width="283" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R5fhlZXnxCA/YaNOdLW7b_I/AAAAAAAADkw/O8djiOmG2x0j-FBRDtoojhmEzu_wHUCSACLcBGAsYHQ/s1587/BA516%2BYAMAHA%2BMIO_ENjpg_Page2_Image1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1123" data-original-width="1587" height="283" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R5fhlZXnxCA/YaNOdLW7b_I/AAAAAAAADkw/O8djiOmG2x0j-FBRDtoojhmEzu_wHUCSACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h283/BA516%2BYAMAHA%2BMIO_ENjpg_Page2_Image1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fKrSW2RVRY4/YaNOcdVu36I/AAAAAAAADks/R3YAVxs0Zu4YT58XUP28bhHWfkOJszKNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1587/BA516%2BYAMAHA%2BMIO_ENjpg_Page1_Image1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1123" data-original-width="1587" height="283" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fKrSW2RVRY4/YaNOcdVu36I/AAAAAAAADks/R3YAVxs0Zu4YT58XUP28bhHWfkOJszKNQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h283/BA516%2BYAMAHA%2BMIO_ENjpg_Page1_Image1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-49750344954003913732021-08-22T12:57:00.006+08:002021-08-22T12:57:58.965+08:00MOTOGP Winning on different manufacturers still on the hunt!!!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j2Hszv9nmhw/YSG5rY2ns_I/AAAAAAAADiA/_0WuW6pI-140i2wU03uDpPTPZQrfe0skQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/Lorenzo%2Brossi%2Bvinales.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1200" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j2Hszv9nmhw/YSG5rY2ns_I/AAAAAAAADiA/_0WuW6pI-140i2wU03uDpPTPZQrfe0skQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/Lorenzo%2Brossi%2Bvinales.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> It is year 2021 and many racing enthusiast are not aware of a certain record that eluded some Great riders of the MotoGp premier class on the 4 stroke Era. Many riders won titles, including Jorge Lorenzo of Spain, Valentino Rossi of Italy, Marc Marquez of Spain, Casey Stoner (HONDA and DUCATI).and so many won races aboard their factory machines. But there is actually no one, and no rider on a MotoGp machines ever WON 3 on different manufacturers even if you search the whole internet and Motogp archives.<br /><br />Many records was written and re-written by many young riders this 20th century and will not name them here. It is very obvious from the data of Motogp archives.<br /><br />Let us breakdown the only riders that can actually nailed that very ELUSIVE record never ever been recorded.<br /><br /><span style="color: red; font-family: times; font-size: large;">Valentino Rossi</span><p></p><p><span style="color: red; font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span>Long before the 4 stroke Era, This rider won many on 2 stroke.He was tagged as the greatest Motogp for his enormous records under his name.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hsvAqDDNStE/YSG7yng-pfI/AAAAAAAADiI/fNgvBrlSCXopzAoutn8QjLyMypwjWmmhACLcBGAsYHQ/s512/Motogp_rossi_300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="342" data-original-width="512" height="214" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hsvAqDDNStE/YSG7yng-pfI/AAAAAAAADiI/fNgvBrlSCXopzAoutn8QjLyMypwjWmmhACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Motogp_rossi_300.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> He won a race with REPSOL HONDA back in his days, not once but too many. He was at the top of his career. Many tried to dethrone him but it was difficult to some. At some point of his endless career, He moved out from Honda and joined Yamaha. And from here. He was absolutely unstoppable. He won many titles to that factory and asserted his name as one of the greatest rider in the history of MotoGp. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9fWec3MWn04/YSG9koLRqGI/AAAAAAAADiQ/Fe2l0-a5o9cj-u755X4Tpt8FI23rmdNzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s318/images%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="159" data-original-width="318" height="159" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9fWec3MWn04/YSG9koLRqGI/AAAAAAAADiQ/Fe2l0-a5o9cj-u755X4Tpt8FI23rmdNzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s0/images%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="318" /></a></div><br />Yamaha has been his home until the arrival of Jorge Lorenzo on the Yamaha. But there's more than that. He had great battles with Casey Stoner aboard his Ducati. Rossi last championship came in 2009 on board his Yamaha and until then he hasn't got any. Lorenzo and Rossi begun teammate at tha YAMAHA GARAGE and all went well unitl the barrier news that put to an end of the the team begun to a heated RIVALRY between the two and by the end the 2010 season. Rossi left Yamaha and joined Ducati to replace Casey Stoner who moved out to Repsol Honda, <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--oDV9paz_sM/YSG_nXoZniI/AAAAAAAADiY/wZ-r0xN3bZs_o5GtYUdoknf-kmvmpB9OwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1024/rossi-admits-poor-bike-development-from-ducati-33621_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="1024" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--oDV9paz_sM/YSG_nXoZniI/AAAAAAAADiY/wZ-r0xN3bZs_o5GtYUdoknf-kmvmpB9OwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/rossi-admits-poor-bike-development-from-ducati-33621_1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Rossi two season with Ducati was the most talked of the town during those years, And on that two season. Rossi never get a chance to win a Race that almost and should have been on the record book as the rider who can won 3 on different manufacturers, But he didn't get it. And by the end of 2012 season after two season with the Panigale, he joined the YAMAHA camp again until 2021 that he announces his Retirement after this season.<br /><br />And thus it is also the end of his HUNT on that Elusive 3 win on different manufacturer record.<br /><br /><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-family: trebuchet; font-size: large;">JORGE LORENZO<br /></span><br />The arrival of Jorge Lorenzo to Yamaha was the start of the run made by Valentino Rossi of becoming a 10th World champion since the latter dominated the year 2000. It was then Rossi got some interesting battle with his team mate. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oNrIeXhrmso/YSHO7irLKOI/AAAAAAAADio/V14dT0Ww4Gg1f6So3ZWu2_7xjoLE17UygCLcBGAsYHQ/s283/images%2B%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="178" data-original-width="283" height="178" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oNrIeXhrmso/YSHO7irLKOI/AAAAAAAADio/V14dT0Ww4Gg1f6So3ZWu2_7xjoLE17UygCLcBGAsYHQ/s0/images%2B%25282%2529.jpg" width="283" /></a></div><br />Jorge Lorenzo won his first title on board the FIAT YAMAHA during the 2010 season. <span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 15px;">Entering the MotoGP class with a bang, Lorenzo took his Fiat Yamaha Team YZR-M1 to three podiums in his first three MotoGP races, including a round 3 win in Portugal. Lorenzo went on to podium just three more times in 2008, finishing 4th in the MotoGP World Championship, 83 points behind teammate Valentino Rossi. The next year, Lorenzo doubled his podium appearances, and scored four wins in his first year running #99, after sporting #48 since his 125GP debut. Again, Lorenzo finished the season behind Rossi, though this time in 2nd place and 45 points shy of Rossi. And Lorenzo's career went up and down after winning most of his titles with YAMAHA and by the end of 2016 he narrowly crowned Champion again in Valencia and decide to quit Yamaha because of the working environment. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mqelXuggpCA/YSHTIpZr6oI/AAAAAAAADiw/f-37_VlJKuMAmPGeSbSB9hsKUvAt-4LBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s300/download%2B%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="168" data-original-width="300" height="168" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mqelXuggpCA/YSHTIpZr6oI/AAAAAAAADiw/f-37_VlJKuMAmPGeSbSB9hsKUvAt-4LBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s0/download%2B%25283%2529.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />He left Yamaha at 2016 and joined Ducati for 2 years and from there he won races to which impossible to some but he did. </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px;">After 18 months of struggle, </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-weight: bold;">Jorge Lorenzo</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px;"> finally took home his </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-weight: bold;">first</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px;"> ever MotoGP </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-weight: bold;">win</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px;"> with </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-weight: bold;">Ducati in 2018.</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px;"> Many thought he cannot win a race with them. It was his step towards that elusive record of winning 3 on different manufacturers since after his 2 years stint with the RED ROCKETS, <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PzJzeVCXn-8/YSHUetmJkBI/AAAAAAAADi4/MK6ivtz3_fw4z_0poY-OaVIIFOef9AGYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s275/download%2B%25284%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="183" data-original-width="275" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PzJzeVCXn-8/YSHUetmJkBI/AAAAAAAADi4/MK6ivtz3_fw4z_0poY-OaVIIFOef9AGYgCLcBGAsYHQ/w320-h213/download%2B%25284%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />He then moved to the REPSOL HONDA at the start of 2019 season along side Marc Marquez. His journey with the Honda was not even so great and far worst than when he was with the Ducati. Crashing too many times and ended of fighting at the back. He simply have not been able to make it work. He never won on a HONDA, and at the end of 2019 season he called it quits and made goodbye to Motogp racing. the Elusive 3 win on different manufacturers also eluded him.<br /></span><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="color: #04ff00; font-family: trebuchet; font-size: large;">MAVERICK VINALES</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;">Lastly, This rider.he was also tagged as TOP GUN. Maverick Vinales is the real talk of the town, the latest rumors going on every paddock. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESiwfed7UxQ/YSHWPYzV5hI/AAAAAAAADjA/MX0hTN29mgMSH6mYjwVpLJ0yoRlND1ziwCLcBGAsYHQ/s288/download%2B%25285%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="175" data-original-width="288" height="243" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESiwfed7UxQ/YSHWPYzV5hI/AAAAAAAADjA/MX0hTN29mgMSH6mYjwVpLJ0yoRlND1ziwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h243/download%2B%25285%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />He started his Motogp career with the unknown, the comebacking SUZUKI MOTOGP TEAM. He moved from moto2 to Motogp on this team 2014 and stayed until the end of 2016 where he won his first during the BRITISH grand Prix 2016. He placed 4th in the championship with not much of a developed machine. But he wanted more. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mXZDunqoS-0/YSHYDRO8fuI/AAAAAAAADjI/lkxX2bOCPug_UmLA5CvKwCKtn2Ns8Or4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s300/download%2B%25286%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="168" data-original-width="300" height="224" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mXZDunqoS-0/YSHYDRO8fuI/AAAAAAAADjI/lkxX2bOCPug_UmLA5CvKwCKtn2Ns8Or4wCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h224/download%2B%25286%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />At the end of the 2016 season he switched to YAMAHA along side Valentino Rossi. At the start of 2017 season. He won the first race at Qatar. Many thought he will be a world champion with his performances with Yamaha. He even got a back to back win. But at the half of that season. Everything fell apart on him. Rossi was complaining about the development, And went to Rossi way. What seems to be working on Rossi wasn't working on Vinales at the half of the season, and the story goes on, the inconsistency of Maverick, Frustrations got in the way. Movistar sponsorship left Yamaha the switches to Monster Energy Yamaha. We all know what happened next to him. At the 2021 Austrian Grand Prix. It was the HEADLINE of the season. Yamaha Parted ways with Maverick Viñales even before his contract expire in 2022. And the news that he was signed by APRILIA.<br /></span><br />Maverick now is the only rider who is ACTIVE on getting the first rider to win 3 on different manufacturers. <span style="color: red;">If by 2022 he won even a single race. MAVERICK will be the first one to do so. </span><br /><br /><p></p>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-45380919505128369002021-07-14T18:36:00.002+08:002021-08-19T14:55:25.029+08:00CNC spindle vibration(The hidden culprit)<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QHR-sgqXIeI/YR4AHxaJK2I/AAAAAAAADhU/yvCUCLoRapgXDxik9HD6AyZVSf4qOQcpgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1280/CNC%2Bspindle%2Bvibration_000000.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QHR-sgqXIeI/YR4AHxaJK2I/AAAAAAAADhU/yvCUCLoRapgXDxik9HD6AyZVSf4qOQcpgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h360/CNC%2Bspindle%2Bvibration_000000.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><iframe frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://youtube.com/embed/JZjPIXapIs8" width="480"></iframe><br /><br />This is my Homemade CNC made just like the CNC 3018 which is a desktop version with a work area of 270mm x 204mm work piece. Unfortunately my old Spindle ER11A chuck got a minor rust on the Lock nut and ordered a new one but it has a terrible problem. The Video will tell what it is. MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-44076755558190113622021-07-06T20:19:00.002+08:002021-08-19T14:56:49.742+08:00Chill ride TANAY-ANTIPOLO with Suzuki Shogun Pro<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MciL7_QzkxQ/YR4Ainz2NOI/AAAAAAAADhc/AfVYdZvPKfQF2wa3X7wgqw16gSuiKjHvACLcBGAsYHQ/s1920/ratrat%2Bmuna%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MciL7_QzkxQ/YR4Ainz2NOI/AAAAAAAADhc/AfVYdZvPKfQF2wa3X7wgqw16gSuiKjHvACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h360/ratrat%2Bmuna%2B1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><iframe frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://youtube.com/embed/MwfmmUEy2nI" style="background-image: url(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/MwfmmUEy2nI/hqdefault.jpg);" width="480"></iframe><div><br /></div><div>This is my trip from my hometown to where I live temporarily. Riding my 17 year old Suzuki Shogun Pro 125cc. I am an old school rider. Been riding since 2004. Join me and ride on board.</div>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-13921843345598172402021-07-04T09:08:00.005+08:002021-08-19T14:58:30.951+08:00Tachus42- The discrete CNC machine simplest controller<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dKRQe7RkZF4/YR4A_C7QwKI/AAAAAAAADhk/2Ng-T1WYmrI_xHLeV_sdou0K_8T9vbU1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210710_183521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dKRQe7RkZF4/YR4A_C7QwKI/AAAAAAAADhk/2Ng-T1WYmrI_xHLeV_sdou0K_8T9vbU1gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_20210710_183521.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Hello everyone. I want to reach out and ask permission to the original creator of Tachus42 CNC 3 axis controller that uses discrete components for DIY enthusiast. The original PMINMO website has been down for a couple of years now. I have the printed documentation of the said content and trying to look for a way to repost everything for those who haven't been able to make it work due to the lost documentation. Who ever here has the email address of the original creator. Kindly notify me if I can bring it up here. It has been 10 years since I build my Home made CNC desktop machine using his documentation and I find it really helpful since from the start of the day I made it and up to now. I am still using it. There might have been probably a better CNC machine controller out there that can be used. The main thing here was. If someone wants to build it from scratch. DIY people tend to not understand how the system works. KIT is not a DIY, it was already built and just connect all in the kit and you'll end of building the unit. Not making the unit. They are different.<br /><br />Building a unit is trying to understand how everything works. In the end you can upgrade it by yourself and not buying alternate items for you to upgrade. The task here is learning. And before I repost the said documentations with additional information by my past experiences with the hardware. I needed the permission of the creator first. Thank you for your support on this website. I am hoping I can reconnect to the the person who started it.<p></p>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-59927645298193764402021-06-10T15:16:00.005+08:002021-06-10T15:16:34.075+08:00Motorcycle Regulator from Online Shopping Site.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6e4StT-JNqY/YMG7aTxr2zI/AAAAAAAADc0/IoppJvMMPTYNnsSgK05kOQW5WWqsDQ8uACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210608_204318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6e4StT-JNqY/YMG7aTxr2zI/AAAAAAAADc0/IoppJvMMPTYNnsSgK05kOQW5WWqsDQ8uACLcBGAsYHQ/w300-h400/IMG_20210608_204318.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /> Here is another example of what was inside a motorcycle voltage regulator, and this time this one is from an online selling site here in my country. Curious wise. I already knew what will be found on the inside for almost all regulator/rectifier for motorcycle that I open, they are almost identical on the parts used but different placement on the board.<p></p><p><br /></p><p>Frying the hardened epoxy is not easy. I tell you, proper care and right tools without chemicals is what's needed. I used hot air to soften the epoxy resin and used a surgical knife to open this unit. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-teYoggpIF-c/YMG7oz-H3LI/AAAAAAAADc4/M_GCbjwkQrEHd-goZzbL1dOwGczuaJ_IwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210608_203009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-teYoggpIF-c/YMG7oz-H3LI/AAAAAAAADc4/M_GCbjwkQrEHd-goZzbL1dOwGczuaJ_IwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210608_203009.jpg" /></a></div><br />What interest me are those broken glasses as shown on the photo. What was the actual purpose is I do not know. I am clueless, maybe who try to open one will have serious injury since it is glass may cut your skin if not properly treated as you you are opening the unit to see the bare board inside. <p></p><p><br /></p><p>The schematic of this unit is the same as my previous post about regulators. It uses BT151 SCR series. The difference I saw was this unit uses a small bridge rectifier which is actually not enough to handle large current rectification on some motorcycle. If you use this on heavy loading of regulating voltages. This one will surely fail. Other uses bridge rectifier of 10A or more and I found out this one is just no more than 5A of diode. </p><p><br /></p><p>Item cost is 170 pesos or around 3.0 USD and if u will replicate this regulator. That 3 USD will just be a cost of 2 BT151 SCR. :)</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MbklFxRIxYs/YMG8KhcQnSI/AAAAAAAADdE/iYIcPiIFid8yJ02Utom3V794JCPzuXEJQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210608_203034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MbklFxRIxYs/YMG8KhcQnSI/AAAAAAAADdE/iYIcPiIFid8yJ02Utom3V794JCPzuXEJQCLcBGAsYHQ/w300-h400/IMG_20210608_203034.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FXv6StJqy3o/YMG8LBFvUcI/AAAAAAAADdI/YhCE5vwGofARAu2Ta-AI9ajZdk-qVKbyACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210608_203025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FXv6StJqy3o/YMG8LBFvUcI/AAAAAAAADdI/YhCE5vwGofARAu2Ta-AI9ajZdk-qVKbyACLcBGAsYHQ/w300-h400/IMG_20210608_203025.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dmUBL3KU3I4/YMG8Lvu9RpI/AAAAAAAADdM/-nXijgezh5EvpMOnK1iwxWCYOaMhaWP4ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210608_203005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dmUBL3KU3I4/YMG8Lvu9RpI/AAAAAAAADdM/-nXijgezh5EvpMOnK1iwxWCYOaMhaWP4ACLcBGAsYHQ/w300-h400/IMG_20210608_203005.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p></p>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-52815114050756593752021-05-01T22:02:00.001+08:002021-05-01T22:02:09.143+08:00Inside an OEM motorcycle Regulator!!!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6n2tXG5vurU/YI1Yl9AOGyI/AAAAAAAADZ0/l_0zsFvdwDssFI3OjNiWHfk_O8LWbecuACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210501_141050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6n2tXG5vurU/YI1Yl9AOGyI/AAAAAAAADZ0/l_0zsFvdwDssFI3OjNiWHfk_O8LWbecuACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_20210501_141050.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Another OEM regulator of a well known brand of motorcycle is in due for educational purposes in order for us to see what was inside. I will not reiterate the brand for sometimes they are confidential. But what you see outside is not always what you see in the inside. Just take a look at this expensive unit. I said expensive right? Sometimes a branded unit is not always what you think. Motorcycle regulators are all created the same, may it be half wave or full wave or even 3 phase type of motorcycle regulators. On this post. I will dismantle everything on the inside. This unit was already defective. It cannot shunt voltages due to possible component failure.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kNE-sPejh1U/YI1Y7PlyfrI/AAAAAAAADZ8/JsFHL1YJeHgc6943WyCUvdJAsYceT6TKgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210501_141058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kNE-sPejh1U/YI1Y7PlyfrI/AAAAAAAADZ8/JsFHL1YJeHgc6943WyCUvdJAsYceT6TKgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20210501_141058.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Part number is this. Search it to know what brand is using this. Did u know it already? so how much is it in your country. LOL.<br /><br />I am intrigue of it. It has a huge housing. It is not a typical unit of an FET type regulators which is very efficient unit. I'd say those FET type are the truly expensive units for they do the job more than the SCR type.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gHZmgYPipsI/YI1aVbqQpHI/AAAAAAAADaE/jNa6-Xm7iUY8X4BqxerB5zFwNHcxAQHrACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210501_141107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gHZmgYPipsI/YI1aVbqQpHI/AAAAAAAADaE/jNa6-Xm7iUY8X4BqxerB5zFwNHcxAQHrACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_20210501_141107.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Hint on trying to fry out units like this. Make sure the resin is of a rubber type. If the resin epoxy is hard as bricks, then you won't be able to open that unit. This one was covered partly by a rubber epoxy resin so opening won't be that difficult<br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Let us begin. You need some tools to make it right not to damage a component inside. Patience is the key. If u want to learn, then do it with lots of patience. After all, you want to know what was really inside, and damaging it will not help you at all.<br /><br />Again this is a FULL WAVE REGULATOR for Motorcycles. To test one. You just need a digital multimeter with DIODE setting. Why DIODE?..Full wave uses BRIDGE RECTIFIER. and bridge rectfiers has 4 pins. Those pins are actually connected on all 4 terminals of the REGULATOR. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x4LlnSsXO68/YI1cRSyUi2I/AAAAAAAADaM/2wh0cCfyYxAQHm8H28Hq6vUSppjaCKXCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210501_141120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x4LlnSsXO68/YI1cRSyUi2I/AAAAAAAADaM/2wh0cCfyYxAQHm8H28Hq6vUSppjaCKXCgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_20210501_141120.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Now try testing a BRIDGE RECTIFIER alone and compare it to a the 4 pins regulator. That is how to test it. Differently with a HALF WAVE.<br /><br />Moving on. here are some photos of the unit getting dismantled. and you will see how the BIG housing only comprises with few components. CRAZY!!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><br /><br /><br /> This is what your paying for.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RTyvhmHY03g/YI1cx2nL-mI/AAAAAAAADa4/4aAqg0OOxoQE2QMzvA8dkNJyv96gi0BvwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_20210501_145350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RTyvhmHY03g/YI1cx2nL-mI/AAAAAAAADa4/4aAqg0OOxoQE2QMzvA8dkNJyv96gi0BvwCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h300/IMG_20210501_145350.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4167AqIWyoo/YI1cx3MFmFI/AAAAAAAADa8/eiXQlyHRvjMU6kqH_qqfkypgRg2nmluAwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_20210501_145340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4167AqIWyoo/YI1cx3MFmFI/AAAAAAAADa8/eiXQlyHRvjMU6kqH_qqfkypgRg2nmluAwCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h300/IMG_20210501_145340.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q2f6lIvE_kc/YI1cwTm1KtI/AAAAAAAADa8/GUC2ROuTgRk19-NNjqtyvx9oOABEjzAgACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_20210501_143612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q2f6lIvE_kc/YI1cwTm1KtI/AAAAAAAADa8/GUC2ROuTgRk19-NNjqtyvx9oOABEjzAgACPcBGAYYCw/w300-h400/IMG_20210501_143612.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3M4X5JysY1g/YI1cnIkczPI/AAAAAAAADa0/0C8SxMV1JaQx-ZovFuseeziZKsbhKyWSQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_20210501_143606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3M4X5JysY1g/YI1cnIkczPI/AAAAAAAADa0/0C8SxMV1JaQx-ZovFuseeziZKsbhKyWSQCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h300/IMG_20210501_143606.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IEUxIq-ztYw/YI1cm6CqR4I/AAAAAAAADas/a7zanhGZ2gc4k511srX-qD6UcVqYr7FmwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_20210501_142154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IEUxIq-ztYw/YI1cm6CqR4I/AAAAAAAADas/a7zanhGZ2gc4k511srX-qD6UcVqYr7FmwCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h300/IMG_20210501_142154.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-39HMwNriS18/YI1cm8WS4DI/AAAAAAAADaw/ZTsWNAHPrAcpETFWYc1cS9wZY15wqvmfQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_20210501_141307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-39HMwNriS18/YI1cm8WS4DI/AAAAAAAADaw/ZTsWNAHPrAcpETFWYc1cS9wZY15wqvmfQCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h300/IMG_20210501_141307.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">For the schematic diagram. It is just the same form my OLD POST. Just search FULL WAVE REGULATOR SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM. The only difference is that. This unit uses BT152-500 instead of BT151-800.<br /><br />FULL WAVE REGULATOR does not increase your charging prowess on your motorcycles. They are just use to capitalize the HALF WAVE regulation and monitoring battery voltages. <br /><br />HALF WAVE primarily use is for you to have a HEADLIGHT run by an AC voltage instead of DC which will be supplied by your battery. <br /><br />And if you directly power your headlight bulb with DC and using just the HALF WAVE SYSTEM which was originally the case for some small motorcycles. you'll end up with a DEAD BATTERY sooner than you imagine. It will simply not going to prolonged the life of your battery. That is why a FULL WAVE SYSTEM is necessary.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-71225472128455994342021-03-30T15:47:00.000+08:002021-03-30T15:47:21.930+08:00Simple low cost Digital Gear Indicator<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OWb04iiI9nQ/YGLJYW-beSI/AAAAAAAADX4/9Wz1SWK8wLgX7vugGNq-w7gzPE3ucD4qACLcBGAsYHQ/s1280/120%2Bdaw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1280" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OWb04iiI9nQ/YGLJYW-beSI/AAAAAAAADX4/9Wz1SWK8wLgX7vugGNq-w7gzPE3ucD4qACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h320/120%2Bdaw.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Are you looking for A digital Gear Indicator that you can use to replace your old school individual indicators on your motorcycle. Guess what!, You find the right place. Ironically, my old speedometer visual indication of a gear was individual. I updated my Suzuki Shogun 125cc small commuter motorcycle from Analog to Digital without having to rewire that will be troublesome at some point since I wanted for my items of upgrade to be a direct replacement to the old one. Unfortunately, some Digital speedometer like this one has no gear indicator on the LCD for it was really intended for scooters like Yamaha Mio sporty without changeable gears. And the fact that it uses speedometer cable in the first place where mine do not have a cable but instead a <a href="https://mastercircuits.blogspot.com/2011/06/speed-sensor.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">SPEED SENSOR</a> that reads the transmission gear tooth and send signals to the speedometer speed input.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x0WVWtJzWNs/YGLMHn1lY9I/AAAAAAAADYA/HVte9seQPC8Nt-5Otr0E-O7ycYQka_MaACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/odometer%2B99999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x0WVWtJzWNs/YGLMHn1lY9I/AAAAAAAADYA/HVte9seQPC8Nt-5Otr0E-O7ycYQka_MaACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/odometer%2B99999.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />My original speedometer is shown with 1, 2 ,3 and 4, indicators, It has been 12 years since I've used that kind until I decided to customized my panel cluster to a more inspiring and gorgeous to look as I am traversing the road ahead by putting a fully digital display custom panel for my 17 year old motorcycle. The hard work pays dividend. Loving it every day, every week, and probably will be forever my display for an old school motorcycle.<p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="color: red;"><b style="background-color: white;">The DIGITAL GEAR INDICATOR</b></span></p><p>There are too many available in the open market, from simplest all the way to microcontroller based gear indicator, samples of available at the open market</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oju9_XOpztw/YGLPXtbvrAI/AAAAAAAADYI/yKIEgNS2nMo_pQGlFqdo14CQukWnYRFtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s225/aftermarket%2Bgear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="225" data-original-width="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oju9_XOpztw/YGLPXtbvrAI/AAAAAAAADYI/yKIEgNS2nMo_pQGlFqdo14CQukWnYRFtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s0/aftermarket%2Bgear.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CbpcTE_4uLE/YGLPXiK8wNI/AAAAAAAADYM/xcgGZZ29mMEbMAPUZYLQvzTZZti1xIL3QCLcBGAsYHQ/s500/aftermarket%2Bgear%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="500" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CbpcTE_4uLE/YGLPXiK8wNI/AAAAAAAADYM/xcgGZZ29mMEbMAPUZYLQvzTZZti1xIL3QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/aftermarket%2Bgear%2B3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fj7XZpFDe2g/YGLPXqbctDI/AAAAAAAADYQ/pqNLYU50SzI1KP43J--ElE2I5iyF0qDpACLcBGAsYHQ/s282/aftermarket%2Bgear%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="179" data-original-width="282" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fj7XZpFDe2g/YGLPXqbctDI/AAAAAAAADYQ/pqNLYU50SzI1KP43J--ElE2I5iyF0qDpACLcBGAsYHQ/s0/aftermarket%2Bgear%2B2.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Other uses hall sensors, some uses switches on motorcycles without a gear indicator sensor. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6HlmrP5atH0/YGLP9aLHvhI/AAAAAAAADYc/l9yYbJCabs0YpYEJNGfq2LcVgdIaeUg7gCLcBGAsYHQ/s910/gear%2Bchange%2Bsensor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="910" data-original-width="908" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6HlmrP5atH0/YGLP9aLHvhI/AAAAAAAADYc/l9yYbJCabs0YpYEJNGfq2LcVgdIaeUg7gCLcBGAsYHQ/w399-h400/gear%2Bchange%2Bsensor.jpg" width="399" /></a></div><br />But on most small motorcycle they uses the simplest gear sensor like this one.<br /><br />HOW IT WORKS is just a straight forward common ground contact.<br /><br /><a href="https://mastercircuits.blogspot.com/2012/05/gear-position-sensor.html">Gear Sensor</a> works when a pin was in contact with those gold circled thing on the sensor. The contact has a continuity to ground and same thing happen to other contact when gear was selected. Small dot is the neutral.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /><h1 style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="color: #800180; font-family: trebuchet;">The SIMPLEST BLOCK DIAGRAM</span></b></h1><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zK-EtP-wK5A/YGLTTPZ2uUI/AAAAAAAADYk/TWlCO_TFHhkib2aLWsd_tbj_LL1-gScFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1754/gear%2Bsensor%2Billustrated.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="910" data-original-width="1754" height="208" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zK-EtP-wK5A/YGLTTPZ2uUI/AAAAAAAADYk/TWlCO_TFHhkib2aLWsd_tbj_LL1-gScFwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h208/gear%2Bsensor%2Billustrated.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>There is no fancy thing on a gear indicator for motorcycle. Almost all uses the ground contact and not the positive side of the electrical supply. It was the easiest and safest way to avoid shorting out the electrical supply. But the problem of this contact type was the tear and wear of the path of the contact that is why there are numerous times user thought they have a busted indicator light and or the speedometer gear light bulb was busted. But often neglect the tear and wear as the pointed objects move around the gear sensor. Often times they make a groove on that Sensor as shown <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dQl1FsyvnNA/YGLUuhRmOAI/AAAAAAAADYs/k-L9T8unJZU5CsHA1BKQV_wALgpez6tIwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/1324449780840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dQl1FsyvnNA/YGLUuhRmOAI/AAAAAAAADYs/k-L9T8unJZU5CsHA1BKQV_wALgpez6tIwCLcBGAsYHQ/s0/1324449780840.jpg" /></a></div><br />and the only way to reuse is to just sand and or flatten again the surface so that no groove will be visible for the <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0zI1Ou8lCpo/YGLU06c82WI/AAAAAAAADYw/DvSeB0NdU0Uql2vqVNACbu2DCR93tjrmQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/1324449782804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0zI1Ou8lCpo/YGLU06c82WI/AAAAAAAADYw/DvSeB0NdU0Uql2vqVNACbu2DCR93tjrmQCLcBGAsYHQ/s0/1324449782804.jpg" /></a></div><br />pointed contact get in touch with the brass circled dot. Do not worry about there might have some component attached to it, but there is NONE..<br /><br />Now lets get this done.<br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #7f6000;"><b>The CIRCUIT</b></span></h2><br />Heard of a logic IC. examples are AND GATE or NOR GATE or you been hearing 7 segment displays. The 74LS IC and or the CD4000 family, your choice. Either you use the 12 volts line and or the 5 volts line it does not matter.<br /><br />But on this circuit i choose to use the 74LS Family logic IC. cheaper than the CD4000 family but more prone to static electricity failure so be careful on handling 74 series family IC.Maximum supply is just 12 volts and need a down converter from 12 volts which is the motorcycle supply and convert it to 5 volts only.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WEt8XgwJ6wQ/YGLXTYL3aPI/AAAAAAAADY8/MwRwMqfDX1oEFO-UT_lkvc4rXM2nWitZQCLcBGAsYHQ/s687/circuit.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="415" data-original-width="687" height="386" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WEt8XgwJ6wQ/YGLXTYL3aPI/AAAAAAAADY8/MwRwMqfDX1oEFO-UT_lkvc4rXM2nWitZQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h386/circuit.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><br /><br /><p></p>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-34987275142092936232021-03-04T15:08:00.000+08:002021-03-04T15:08:03.306+08:00Raider R150 broken Panel board, Can it be FIX?<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1CNUuL1qbRs/YECAkT5jHOI/AAAAAAAADWI/YSzKCC3WlnAMkhyXZydv9L3E4uEpCkXbACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200831_100412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1CNUuL1qbRs/YECAkT5jHOI/AAAAAAAADWI/YSzKCC3WlnAMkhyXZydv9L3E4uEpCkXbACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_20200831_100412.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Did anyone thought this speedometer from looking at the outside has no problem whatsoever. Wrong!!!. As you are looking at the external view of this speedometer seems a bit normal did you think. But when I opened this one for repair. The board is actually broken with many copper foil path snap maybe due to the one who first started opening it has no idea what to do.<br /><br />It was shocking and tell you honestly. I almost gave up repairing this unit. But as other knew me. I do not easily give up. There will always be a way when circuitry isn't damage, and or parts inside is not missing.<br /><br />As I am dismantling this at first seems OK. Getting deeper from the dismantle process. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3U-kdZJ_nj8/YECB6DuaYrI/AAAAAAAADWQ/GlKvvY2leCARuhjsM_KuJHHxpQq5vT6YwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200831_102727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3U-kdZJ_nj8/YECB6DuaYrI/AAAAAAAADWQ/GlKvvY2leCARuhjsM_KuJHHxpQq5vT6YwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_20200831_102727.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>Someone of no knowledge actually repaired this one. The actual display has some missing digits and speed reading no longer functional. Probably due to not properly fixed.</p><p>Ok then getting deeper.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-badAT4uDd2Q/YECC7ma4RRI/AAAAAAAADWY/30eH7qs4LQ0_2fiDol4Oyxin8zKxwLG2ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200831_102741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-badAT4uDd2Q/YECC7ma4RRI/AAAAAAAADWY/30eH7qs4LQ0_2fiDol4Oyxin8zKxwLG2ACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_20200831_102741.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> Here we can see what was behind that glue stick. Wow a Glue stick. Very clever huh! Broken board that snap in two pieces must be joined by something else. Aside from the stick glue. They tried to use a cynoacrylate just like mighty bond. How bad they were thinking. As I am tearing it apart, Been thinking how in the world that this speedometer board got into this kind of situation given that it didnt came from an accident or a hard knock to simply snap the board. Do not even have a clue why? nonetheless this unit will still be repaired and make it functional again.<br /><br /><p></p><p>And so cleaning here removing the glue and moving on the repair each and every broken copper foil path must be joined by just using some enameled copper wire as shown, </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dLJdNk-faS4/YECFGvZRNQI/AAAAAAAADWg/WX-K4vw94GkU1zPqvY0Pjah-9pCa4Z1ywCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200831_231044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dLJdNk-faS4/YECFGvZRNQI/AAAAAAAADWg/WX-K4vw94GkU1zPqvY0Pjah-9pCa4Z1ywCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_20200831_231044.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />cleaned it first with 100% iso alcohol scrape all coated path to be joined and voila!!! looking good. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z8RFTeC2nVM/YECFfSV0mUI/AAAAAAAADWo/2qb7CV7Yad4R4Im_pw6TphBmQlZW7sobgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200831_231032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z8RFTeC2nVM/YECFfSV0mUI/AAAAAAAADWo/2qb7CV7Yad4R4Im_pw6TphBmQlZW7sobgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_20200831_231032.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Board is 2 layer top and bottom so both sides must be securely joined by solid wire.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HfUk2A0p9-s/YECF1hJu19I/AAAAAAAADWw/Z8rebuvWSyQk6-1vtar2QloBuhthgu4LgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200831_231058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HfUk2A0p9-s/YECF1hJu19I/AAAAAAAADWw/Z8rebuvWSyQk6-1vtar2QloBuhthgu4LgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_20200831_231058.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> LCD missing pads must be tied with an enameled thin copper wire. as shown. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fz6M2Nl9A6c/YECGVqtgpyI/AAAAAAAADW4/TKHvyNlmq8kaxJ3ohKF1WC6X523YIBzKgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200831_231013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fz6M2Nl9A6c/YECGVqtgpyI/AAAAAAAADW4/TKHvyNlmq8kaxJ3ohKF1WC6X523YIBzKgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/IMG_20200831_231013.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Checking everything after all connections was done and after turning it on was a success. Who would have thought a broken PCB board cannot be fixed and turn a non functional unit into a working item. Everything needs patience. There is no impossible fix. Just doing the right approach and you'll get what you wanted and get things done right. <p></p>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0Philippines12.879721 121.774017-15.430512836178846 86.617767 41.189954836178842 156.93026700000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-63506611116536811422020-10-18T14:38:00.001+08:002020-10-18T14:38:19.590+08:00Chinese Digital Speedometer Working without manual<p> Whenever you purchase a Chinese made digital speedometers, rest assured there will be no operating manual and or specific pin out of the wiring where it goes and what color of wirings are for. More often they intend to mislead user the global standard color of wire for automotive purposes. But if a technician like me will test it. Whether no manual. It will work as shown on the last part of this article. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U6Zar_m5O4k/X4vgVU59-tI/AAAAAAAADTc/6xi09Zog04Mv4lhY86Pwcm20oboFmORPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s961/Untitled.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="865" data-original-width="961" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U6Zar_m5O4k/X4vgVU59-tI/AAAAAAAADTc/6xi09Zog04Mv4lhY86Pwcm20oboFmORPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Untitled.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />The Speedometer in test was this type and it is very cheap. I bought it on an online shopping store. It arrived and as usual, there is no manual. Just the unit and the connector. Even if it will be searched on the web. There is no wiring diagram of this speedometer. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nUspP7nRP2M/X4vhrPVyiwI/AAAAAAAADTo/-Q8OtqvVX7c6XIGkFMf_nKyn_1wBCSfAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s960/Untitled2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="867" data-original-width="960" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nUspP7nRP2M/X4vhrPVyiwI/AAAAAAAADTo/-Q8OtqvVX7c6XIGkFMf_nKyn_1wBCSfAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Untitled2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Trial and error is highly risky. So if u have no wiring diagram of this speedometer. You wont be able to make it work properly. But there is always a way. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HZ0eJHzQXI4/X4viGYNp2DI/AAAAAAAADTw/3iaWDBJIOC437Y-tC2BPVdCRUP2Ab35HQCLcBGAsYHQ/s956/Untitled3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="865" data-original-width="956" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HZ0eJHzQXI4/X4viGYNp2DI/AAAAAAAADTw/3iaWDBJIOC437Y-tC2BPVdCRUP2Ab35HQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Untitled3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Of course worldwide web is free. But how to make it work is not. You all know the drill of YOUTUBE.....Subscribe, hit the notification bell, share and make it go up where it belong and when it reach the target. Guess the Pin out will come out.<p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2Dt3LIMqQec" width="520"></iframe>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217113485872421695.post-4725818865867487872020-08-26T21:56:00.001+08:002020-08-27T01:09:44.286+08:00Let us talk about SPARK PLUG!!!<p> Motorcycle Ignition will not be complete without something to jump an arc to inside the combustion chamber to Ignite the compressed mixture may it be Carbureted or Fuel Injected system of Front end Ignition. More users often tend to change Ignition boxes, remapped the ECU, change ignition coils, Lightened something to have at least a very reliable and at least above optimum Ignition system. The least Item on their list of changing was the dreaded SPARK PLUG!!!!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gwBKlrUJlG8/X0ZolcKsHFI/AAAAAAAADSM/TMy0C2sAY2Imk0Ni0wDsEFuP6GGxGtiMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200823_102348.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gwBKlrUJlG8/X0ZolcKsHFI/AAAAAAAADSM/TMy0C2sAY2Imk0Ni0wDsEFuP6GGxGtiMgCLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/IMG_20200823_102348.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />There are many to choose from. starting to ORDINARY all the way up to more expensive ones like Iridium and or Platinum, but how do they really produces the ARC or spark when they are bolted on the plug hole. Do you really see how they spark and compare them to others? Is there a way to see them arc and be visible to our eye.<br /><br />Well I did an experiment on some of what I have on my workshop, in which I used them before on my 16 year old small engine motorcycle. As always I set up up my DC-CDI testing equipment to perform this experiment.<br /><br />Spark Plug to be tested today are as follows <br /><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>AT7C platinum--normally sold by Chinese online shopping site, They are many rebranded of this but all of them came from AT7C base item<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-To_stR5j9b4/X0Zo6HhYHxI/AAAAAAAADSU/EdiTFJURK_8hw6-CC0_Tb3TXPEmimFsVACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200823_102645.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-To_stR5j9b4/X0Zo6HhYHxI/AAAAAAAADSU/EdiTFJURK_8hw6-CC0_Tb3TXPEmimFsVACLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/IMG_20200823_102645.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /></li><li>Ordinary AT7C--the non platinum type mainly in white color for distinguisment.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eWenG6bQbZc/X0ZpFOoAzfI/AAAAAAAADSY/-VFj8f5cKKYOAUyE3OC7PWPEI4M_l5bhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200823_102633.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eWenG6bQbZc/X0ZpFOoAzfI/AAAAAAAADSY/-VFj8f5cKKYOAUyE3OC7PWPEI4M_l5bhwCLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/IMG_20200823_102633.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /></li><li>Denso Iridium IUF22--very known worldwide and it is not cheap. I bought i before around year 2008 for around 15$<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XMNREuL28f8/X0ZpQlqVoRI/AAAAAAAADSg/NfM62-EpN4wqNAuYK6x09FasKo5-H9vTACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200823_102623.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XMNREuL28f8/X0ZpQlqVoRI/AAAAAAAADSg/NfM62-EpN4wqNAuYK6x09FasKo5-H9vTACLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/IMG_20200823_102623.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /></li><li>Bosch Platinum UR4A--The composition of the center core of this plug is somehow hidden and just a portion of it is exposed on the ceramic coating.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jG_a_KcfcXQ/X0ZpbnhRbII/AAAAAAAADSk/x4x2easg-A8vK5YH666CK5j6ta5BeAV2gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200823_102605.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jG_a_KcfcXQ/X0ZpbnhRbII/AAAAAAAADSk/x4x2easg-A8vK5YH666CK5j6ta5BeAV2gCLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/IMG_20200823_102605.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /></li><li>AT7C 3 Electrode--The Chinese 3 electrode type with the center element is like a side gaped type.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YAfMlGvV5YM/X0ZplmZ7ctI/AAAAAAAADSs/B7ketC_APXgXuYeHwIkSJWJFVuFMvFs5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200823_102554.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YAfMlGvV5YM/X0ZplmZ7ctI/AAAAAAAADSs/B7ketC_APXgXuYeHwIkSJWJFVuFMvFs5wCLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h384/IMG_20200823_102554.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><br /></li></ol><div><br /></div><div>The test will be very simple. The DC-CDI will fire the coil at 1000RPM and 10,000RPM to just see the intensity of the 5 spark plug..The color is not much seen by the camera used but in my own eyes they all differ. Other plug was white all through out, One plug was orange arc, There is a plug that arcs like a NEW YEAR luces.<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_yS4RNlwm-k" width="480"></iframe>..<br /><br />The AT7C can replace the following brand and model.<br /><br /><div><br /></div><div>Autolite 4194</div><div>Brisk NAR14YC</div><div>Brisk NAR14YS</div><div>Champion PZ7HC</div><div>Champion Z8</div><div>Champion Z9Y</div><div>Denso IUF22</div><div>Denso U22FS-U</div><div>Denso U22FSR-U</div><div>Enker T90</div><div>NGK C7HSA</div><br /></div><p></p>MCircuitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13945656446159232990noreply@blogger.com2