Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Last Updated: August 18, 2011

Headlight Booster

Want to have more juice out of your stock headlight bulbs? Headlights that are often connected to stator are not too bright that the intensity varies on a designated RPM as such like in suzuki shogun commuter bike wherein at 5000 rpm, the full brightness of the headlight can be attained. The photo below are the before and after in sequence at the same rpm reading of 5000 rpm.NTjH5m on Make A Gif, Animated Gifs

The brighter of the two already have the enhancer. How in the world i did it? considering your headlight attached to your voltage regulator to where it clips the voltage to a desirable level not to break the filament of the bulb by excessive voltage the stator is generating. The higher the Rpm of the engine, the higher the voltage it will generate, and without the voltage regulator, the BULB will instantly get busted.

Last Updated: August 12, 2011

Side mirror signal lights part III

Here are the step by step..(partial) on how to make your imitation KOSO side mirror as signal lights.
First gather all the materials i posted on this part 1 signal side mirror.

 The picture at the right is the NOT moded Koso side mirror.

And after hours of drilling, sanding, and cutting,
the back of the side mirror will look like the one on the right photo.The acrylic cut sheet will perfectly fit as if it was not there.

Motorbike Battery Care, Maintenance & Fault Finding

If a motorbike is used regularly & a few basic checks are performed once a month, a motorbike battery should be serviceable for at least 3 years. Maintenance free & gel filled batteries require very little maintenance once they have been correctly charged & installed.
However, it is worth remembering that, due to their size, motorcycle batteries can be very temperamental if not properly maintained & will not take much abuse. Correctly charging your battery & checking the battery at least once a month will usually ensure trouble free usage.
Based on numerous years of experience with motorcycle batteries, we have found that a faulty motorbike battery will usually either fail within the first month or won't function correctly from the start. Most motorbike batteries that fail after a month have failed due to being incorrectly charged or due to being abused.
Motorbike batteries are very simple in their construction & the return rate for genuinely faulty batteries due to manufacturing faults is less than 1%. It is worth noting that most motorbike battery warranties only cover manufacturing defects or faults, not abuse by the owner or failure to keep the battery charged.

Common Motorbike Battery Facts

~Although most automotive batteries are referred to as either 6 volt or 12 volt, these numbers are only assigned to batteries to make it easier to distinguish between the 2 types of electrical systems & don't represent the true voltage of a motorbike battery.
~A healthy 12 volt motorbike battery should be between 12.5 & 13.5 volts & a healthy 6 volt battery should be between 6.5 & 7.2 volts if tested on a motorbike whilst resting (ignition switched off)
~Once a 12 volt battery drops below 12.4 volts (while resting) it will start to struggle to start most motorcycles.
~Brand new motorcycle batteries are only charged to about 80% of their full capacity (around 12 volts) which is why they need a top off charge before they are initially used
~Even a motorbike battery that isn't connected to a motorcycle will gradually lose it's charge. Once a battery is filled with electrolyte (battery acid), the chemical reaction that produces electricity starts to work & the process of 'self-discharge' begins. Batteries not connected to a vehicle will discharge slower than connected batteries
~A motorcycle battery charger specially designed for the purpose should always be used to charge a motorbike battery. Car & general automotive chargers use a higher rate of charge which forces a higher current into the battery very quickly. This can lead to overheating & plate damage as motorbike batteries are not built to take this kind of charge. A motorbike battery should be charged at about one tenth it's amp/hour rating (for most motorbike batteries this means about 1-2 amp's per hour).
~Distilled or de-ionized water only should be used to top up a conventional or lead acid battery. Other kinds of water (like tap water) contain elements which will permanently damage the plates in a battery

Last Updated: August 08, 2011

Installing MOTO R analog tachometer

This is the procedure of how to install TYPE R or MOTO R analog tachometer on motorcycles, The photo shown, (disregard the blurred image)
There are 5 wires comig out from this tachometer, namely
1.Green wire
2. Black wire
3. Yellow/black stripe wire

4. Red wire
5. Solid yellow wire

The two wires that is being hold by black tube is for the tachometer backlight numbers 4 and 5.

The other 3 wires left is for the input and the supply of the tacho itself, The GREEN wire (1) sometimes mistaken by others is used mainly by china as GROUND, this is also being used by some scooters made by them..(2) which is BLACK also mistaken as ground is actually the POSITIVE line of this tachometer. (3) is the input of the tachometer...This must be tapped on the primary side of the IGNITION COIL after the CDI output....and not from the secondary side to where your spark plug leads to....

FET type motorcycle voltage regulator

This is another voltage regulator for motorcycles that uses Field Effect Transistor for better charging efficiency of the system, although still using half wave bridge system on charging the battery, the control to which the system monitors the battery condition. What makes it better is that is a MOSFET controlled device rather than the crude SCR shunt type that is on most bikes until recently and also is a 50A rated device.
MUCH better voltage regulation and runs cooler too due to more efficient devices and control circuitry.The SCR shunt type consumes more energy in the Regulator itself than the bike is using and dumps a ton of current into the heatsink (feel yours & just see how hot those things run!!!! - don't touch it - you'll burn yourself - seriously!) The problem is exacerbated because their efficiency goes even lower when they get HOT so it's a vicious circle. Heat is the number 1 killer of these devices.
Incidentally its a misconception that shunt type work harder with increased load i.e. higher-wattage lights, etc - actually, the higher the load on the output, the less work the shunt regulator does in dumping that excess energy and will actually run cooler!!

The FET has extremely low resistance in conducting state and this results in a lower dissipated power from the device while conducting load current, as opposed to the SCR which shunts the maximum current across a significant volt drop, resulting in a higher dissipated power - and resulting temperature, much more so than the FET device. 

The picture shows a typical FET type voltage regulator for motorcycles, as opposed to the SHUNT type to where an SCR is used to control the windings to generate more than enough on the system, here an FET is used tag as Q5 in the diagram, IC2a is the control circuitry of the battery charge and discharge. D1 and D2 is the rectifier that converts the AC voltage of the stator to DC that charges the battery.

Last Updated: August 01, 2011

Voltage regulator, A summary

Before attempting to use all circuits here regarding voltage regulator for motorcycles, let us first differentiate the two system. Not all machine are the same especially with the design of the voltage regulator. There are single phase system that uses half and full wave charging system, and three phase system that uses half wave system..By looking at this block diagrams, you will be able to determine what system your bike uses by following the connection. FJPGVS6ZRZW7

First and foremost, the single phase, the picture above illustrates a single system half wave regulation, you can see that the one end of the stator is connected to ground, via earth ground, the coil has also a center tap on the winding for your headlight and the output will also be regulated by the voltage regulator..this kind of regulator is a single phase half wave system, if the end of the winding is no where connected to ground then the system will be a full wave.

Iron Cast Wheel repainting

We all know that cast wheels made of iron is prone to rusting. This what happened to my sinski scooter cast wheel, and so its time to repaint it. Firstly, we have to scrap all rusted parts with knives, sandpaper, and put anti rust primer on it to stop the rust. I have not put out the tyre from the cast wheel so i'll be using the power of masking tape to mask unwanted area not to be painted.
The picture shows my iron cast wheel with red primer been applied. I also mask the area of the tyre ready for paint spray. But wait there are still some area of the tyre not covered. Well, its time to have some old newspaper for the covering of the whole tyre.

Last Updated: July 24, 2011

Lowering Front Shocks

Lowering front suspension on motorcycles offers ride height improvement and drive ability, but this depends on how we approach to do it. Some uses the slipping method in where the telescopic tube is adjusted from the locking nut of the T-post as shown, I just really dont know how secure this approach, because of the tube may slip from time due to heavy bumps on the road. If you will analyze the tube, there is a groove
for the first bolt to secure the telscopic tube not to slip off in its place. That is what the groove stands for. To lower the fork the right way, we need to understand what makes up the front fork, how they work, what components that makes the whole front suspensions.
By dismantling it although i have troubles removing the damping rod bolt at the end of the fork looks like this part by part. CONTINUE reading........

Last Updated: July 22, 2011

LED lights

Led lighting solution for motorcycle are the trends of enthusiast from filament bulbs of their signal lights thus improving night time visibility and faster response of LED including signal lights, tail lights and brake lights, soon even headlights will be led..THIS is light emitting diode era anyway.
My DIY led amber signal lights.
All you need is a PCB board, couple of leds, resistor of 470ohms for the three in series, a wedge type holder, a small signal diode 1n4148 for reverse polarity protection..and a solder know how technique.

this is how it lights offset from the camera to see the effect.

HID installation on motorcycle

High intensity discharge or HID is very common nowadays here in my country when it comes to motorcycle headlamp because of its usefulness at night covering almost all of your front view for better driveablity during night time.
The process of installing this might need some electrical know how on motorcycles, know how to trace the right supply path, and using heavy gauges wire to prevent malfunction as to some are experiencing.
When you open up the box, you'll see the components of a HID system
1. The BULB
2. the wiring harness
3. The ballast...( 12 volts to 23kv to 85v dc-dc converter)
4...The RELAY

The relay must be provided always when dealing with electrical surges of motorcycle to prevent the ballast fro absorbing the SUDDEN incoming current surge that may damage the ballast....(very common problem)
FOR INSTALLATION..........read more

Last Updated: July 21, 2011

Sinski scooter 150cc restoration exteriors

Front fork suspension before and after.
Engine side..(BELT CVT cover before re applying new paint. front fork tube and BELT CVT cover with gray primer applied for new paint.
 side body cover with gray primer applied after sanding and old paint remove..ready for re painting.
 Side body cover before re applying new paint...
The speedometer head cover before I removed the original color for sanding and applying gray primer for new color painting.
Newly painted side body cover and front headlight cover partially, no top coating applied...

Sinski Scooter 150cc

I am in the  process of restoring a sinski scooter150cc with a GY6 based engine that was stock for a year and so. Before it was handed over to me by my cousin, it rocks. The engine running very smoothly, and even running fast due to its 150cc engine. I was terribly surprised of what he did to this scooter after. they just stored  the scooter for in no particular reason at all, getting soaked in rains, directly hit by sunlight after..until the chassis begins to corrode, and body kit color fading away. And so i immediately came to my senses to get the scooter and try to restore it to its beauty and rocks the road again.

This is the picture after i remove the body kit, and just look at the chassis.

Im in the process of applying red primer after scraping all the rust on some parts of the chassis to save it.

but from the time being since i need to gather all the materials for the restoration, i'll let her sleep for a while. I hope at least 90% of the original beauty will re surface on this scooter.

The body kit had cracks on its pinted surfaces..perhaps due to temperature changes, stuck up throttle cable, front brake master inoperable, with left front shock absorber leaking fluids.

  The chassis was totally corroded and may weaken it. This will be the very first thing to do with this bike.

Last Updated: July 17, 2011

Suzuki Hayate 2011 street racer edition

2011 suzuki hayate street racer version offers more sporty look from its predecessor.
with a variation of titanium black and orange tone.

Recomposition looks ranging from casual view mirror model combined brake handle with color harmony beremblem MotoGP motorcycle body.
 Suzuki Hayate street racer a more elegant look, body look more sporty and make the rider a more manly look
 Suzuki hayate street racer softer suspension has been designed specially for use as flexible so as to dampen the hard shock of the latter.
Suzuki Hayate disc brakes street racer has also been modified to use technological disc-quality slab that looks more dynamic and more handsome look

Last Updated: July 06, 2011

Wave 125 S Panel Repair

Recently, a friend of mine is asking if i can repair his Honda Wave 125 S speedometer panel that is not functioning. No power, no activity. I said of course. so he handed it to me, and test. Before i opened the said panel, i needed to have a wiring diagram of the model, and here it is.
Although the picture seems blurred when i got it from a site, the color coding is enough for me to know which is the positive and negative line of the supply so that i can power up the board without having is entire bike, and so i powered the panel...NOTHING...no activity.

 My first visual inspection on the parts, i found out that one of the transistor at the regulator part have BLACK marks on its solder...it means it was burnt by a mistake somewhere by the owner on its motorcycle wiring that causes the panel to FAIL..

If you can see it on the picture TR102 solder, has a BLACK mark, so i immediately test it with my digital diode tester, Im not surprise of the outcome, there..the transistor pins are all shorted. in all probe points.

Last Updated: June 28, 2011

DC-CDI ignition troubleshooting

Many small bikes of today and tomorrow are now using the DC-cdi technology, this is for reliability and mantaining good spark every now and then, but then at somehow and at somepoint, the system fails. How does it fails?

Firstly, we must understand how the system works from start to finish.

     We'll now get into the ignition system itself. The outline simple enough. You start inside the left engine side cover, where two
     sit near the rotor and produce a pulse of electric current when the pistons near TDC (Top Dead Center) which is fed to the
     (Capacitive Discharge Ignition, variously called the "ignitor box", "brain box", etc.). This box has two basic functions. It adjusts the signal from the pickups based on engine speed to change the timing as needed, and a capacitor thats being charged by an internal HV generator in accordance with RPM switches an SCR dumping energy of the CAPACITOR to the primary winding of the
     so that the secondary winding is "induced" to spit out a high voltage shot to the
SPARK PLUG WIRES and on to the
SPARK PLUG CAPS which in turn sends it to the
     where all this voltage (maybe somewhere between 10kv to 40kv-that's thousands of volts) has enough pressure to make a small current jump the air gap between the electrodes at the bottom of the plug, thereby making a spark. This spark ignites the fuel mixture which, at that point is sitting all around the plug tip in a compressed state, ready to go BANG.
     So that is basically what happens But things aren't quite this simple, and so we'll take each element and talk about it in more depth. We'll also note the problems we've run into, the tests that can be made, and the repairs/fixes we know about. Please understand I'm not a trained engineer just an electronics guy. My comments are based on what I've learned from reading, talking with people, and personal experience with the system.

Motorcycle Automatic Battery Charger

I made this a long time ago for my motorcycle, a battery charger conditioner thats fully automatic, can detect whether the battery plates are still functioning normally or if the battery can be charged when connected...

Been using this for the last few years on my motorcycle battery to keep it in condition, with some peace of mind if i left it un attended will automatically shut the charging off then place it on trickle mode.

Battery charger / conditioner  is suitable for charging and maintaining both open and sealed type 6 volt or 12 volt lead-acid batteries. Battery charging current can be selected between 0.3A or 1A. The battery can be hooked-up to this charger unit for an indefinite time, and the battery will be kept in optimal condition. Battery type and charge current are selectable, while the charging process is fully automatic.
Schematic diagram

Kawasaki OEM DC-CDI

Ever wonder whats inside an OEM DC-CDI of kawasaki,
I got time to open up one just for all of my readers, with my step by step on how i did it without messing up the circuitry of the igniter. At first before i opened up this little black box. The Unit is covered with rubber epoxy and sometimes hardened epoxy to  avoid malfunction from moist and vibration of the motorcycle.

i tried not to mess up with the casing, unfortunately it didnt work for me, the plastic case is too brittle. slowly i chipped the casing with a diagonal cutter starting from the top cover. After hours doing the case thing. ,

The rubber epoxy will be exposed and time to strip it away so that the components of the board will be visible like this.
I used bamboo stick, (do not use hard pointed objects on clearing this epoxy, we do not know where the components are and might get damage by it)..so better yet use stick. ( i did not use any solvent to strip this...i need the entire board intact and the semiconductors un damage...

Last Updated: June 17, 2011

Half Wave Stator to Full wave

We all know that small bikes charging system is made up of only a Half wave ac to dc conversion thus making it impossible for the system to give enough juice out from the stator to charge batteries at low rpm...To compensate for a FULL WAVE rectifier be installed on this system, we need to do some modifying to the stator,

the picture shown uses the stock configuration of a Half Wave system with an AC lighting coil present for headlight connection center tapped to the whole winding of the stator. One end of the coil is connected to chassis ground. I order for this system to give way for a FULL WAVE rectifier, the grounding system must be omitted and center tapped connection for headlight must be removed as shown on the next picture below.

the headlight will be redirected to the battery by cutting the yellow line of the AC lighting coil from the Stock regulator/rectifier, so that the headlight ON off switch as well as the HI/LOW system will still be used without any rewiring that headlight path.

ADVANTAGES of this system than the latter.

with full wave regulation you have almost twice usable dc power (and cleaner) than with half wave
last , cleaner regulation with the sens wire, if well used, it deliver more power if their is a drop (big consumption) than the other fixed simplier one where lighting often drop
and better protection for you electronic again drop or over charge

Last Updated: June 12, 2011

Speed sensor

Digital speedometer like those found in a suzuki shogun 125 and raider 150 wherein there is no cable attached to front end of the bike uses the so called, GEAR TOOTH magnetic sensor, as shown in the picture.

This is bolted in the area where the front sprocket shaft is as shown below

As the gear spins or turns, each spline or tooth in it will be detected by the magnet as it passes and a corresponding electrical pulse is sent out. The faster the gear spins the faster the electrical pulses the sensor sends and thus a speed reading is made.

The sensor shown was already defective and unable to send pulses to the speed panel, I assume it failed due to the oil used that it generate too much heat for the semiconductor attached at the tip of the assembly to overheat and causing it to snap a connection with the wires inside...
I tried to open the sensor part, but it was covered with epoxy.

Last Updated: June 06, 2011

Driving High Power Leds

High power leds from 1 watt up to 5o watts of power needs a constant current driver in order to gain a respectful efficiency, than just using those big bulky white coated limiting resistors, that not just only robs the total power of your leds, but produces poor efficiency that kills the potential of your LEDS.

A 1 watt high power leds in my opinion needs at least a 350mah constant current driver to produce its total luminance, whereas a 3 watts needs 700mah, a 5 watts needs a 1A driving current and so on and so forth.

In the picture above, is a 3 watts X 3 watts high power leds made by SEOUL semicon model P4 i ordered online. It been driven at a selectable switch in a 350mah and 700mah constant current configuration, using a switching mode type circuit. Commonly known circuit that can be used are, NCP3063 by ON semiconductor
LM3404 by national , the cheaper MC34063 by motorola...etc etc.

sample circuit as shown here:

Last Updated: January 06, 2011

2011 Suzuki Shogun Revealed

Its been quite a while, we suzuki owners are waiting for them to come up with something more elegant and sporty looking cub, in line with the shogun series, now comes the new Suzuki Shogun Axelo 125cc revealed in indonesia last januray 5. Compared to the late model, Shogun Tulisan, (we called this shogun by this name because of the curve of the body kits) the Axelo has more look that will make an impact on the motorcycle market. The engine is still a 125cc single overhead cam, air cooled, which was derived from its successor, with an engine balancer to minimize vibration. A new cast wheel design, new front cowling, and overall aerodynamics, in this we are eager to see this on the road travelling here in the philippines very soon.

1-cylinder, 4 stroke, SOHC
Piston Diameter: 53.5 mm
Stroke: 55.2 mm
Capacity: 124 cc
Power max: 9.6 PS@8.000 rpm
(standard and S), 10 PS@8.500 rpm (R)

Torque max: 10 Nm@6.000 rpm
(standard and S), 9.9 Nm@6.000 rpm (R)

CDI from DENSO to mitsubushi equipped with anti knock at 9800 rpm
Valve angle of 24 degrees (in) and 26 degrees (ex), compression ratio 9,6:1, TPS, PAIR control valve and the engine balancer to minimize vibration of the engine, making its performance more excellent.