Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.

HOW CDI WORKS

CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

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Last Updated: December 26, 2012

FULL WAVE regulator schematic

A full wave regulator is a type of regulator mostly found on small motorcycle that can enhance the charging system of motorcycle battery. It can be bought in a four pin or in a five pin configuration as shown on the left. It is also being used widely by enthusiast that convert their single phase half wave generator onto a full wave by altering the stator windings.

Wondering what is inside this kind of regulator and how it differs from those commonly used HALF wave regulator, you are in luck for i have the time and resources to open up this donor regulator. it took me hours of heating up, scraping the coating to expose the main board and parts.

Here it is.

with the help of a portable blow torch, soldering iron, a small flat screwdriver, and a bit of patience, I carefully removed the top coating of this regulator exposing the bottom of the PCB. and noticed the smd (surface mount devices). Seeing that makes me more careful of not scrapping them from their location.

Patience is the key when doing this kind of hobby.




















HOURS later,


Have to desolder first all components to pull out the pcb.














 The bridge rectifier that needs to be heatsinked.
 the epoxy residue..(too tough to scrape)
 top view
 side view

back view
















And the schematic of this board


By comparing this to my previous post

Single Phase Shunt Regulator (full wave)

They are almost identical, but as i have said, the regulator above is a five wire type, the schematic shown on left is a four pin type. The difference, the circuit within the link is always connected to the battery thus leakage is present. while as this regulator has a wire (BLACK) that is connected after the ignition switch and not directly to the battery.

It was used for one reason:

1. when ignition off, monitoring circuit of the schematic is disabled, no current will be taken from the battery when stored, or park.

We have a saying " its better to have more than to have enough" This particular five wire regulators can be used on four wire type. just connect the black and red together..

By looking at the schematic, and comparing it to my previous post of voltage regulators, it is almost identical, with the design, and only component values are different. C1, R1, Q1, D1, and R3 compromising the sensing and regulating circuit, whereas D2,D3, Q2 and Q3 are the shunting components of the stator winding.


D4 to D7 are your rectifiers that converts the AC coming from the stator to DC for charging your battery. With the values as shown, the output of this regulator is 14.4 at 5000rpm. You can modify this circuit for your intended application, to output 15 volts rather than 14.4 for quick charging of your battery when there are too much load on your system, by altering D1, to 13 volts rather than 12.6 volts..
This system is Stator dependent...meaning, this can't output more power on what your stator can give, all charging system power rely on your stator max output...


Note: further again..the generator to be used here do not touch the ground or not connected to any ground.