Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Last Updated: November 03, 2010

Single phase voltage regulator (full wave)

Here is another voltage regulator for motorcycle design to be used on single phase stator.
This is the simplest full wave design commonly used on almost all commuter bikes  with 4 pin connector. Do not be mistaken with the half wave versions, for this one cannot be used on half wave stator design to which the other end of the windings is directly connected to ground. Again this is for a  FULL WAVE converted stator design and modifications.
By looking at the schematic, and comparing it to my previous post of voltage regulators, it is almost identical, with the design, and only component values are different. C1, R1, Q1, D1, and R3 compromising the sensing and regulating circuit, whereas D2,D3, Q2 and Q3 are the shunting components of the stator winding.

D4 to D7 are your rectifiers that converts the AC coming from the stator to DC for charging your battery. With the values as shown, the output of this regulator is 14.4 at 5000rpm. You can modify this circuit for your intended application, to output 15 volts rather than 14.4 for quick charging of your battery when there are too much load on your system, by altering D1, to 13 volts rather than 12.6 volts..
This system is Stator dependent...meaning, this can't output more power on what your stator can give, all charging system power rely on your stator max output...

Part list

R1= 3.3k ohms
R2= 1 k ohms
R3= 1.5k ohms
R4= 100 ohms
Q1= 2n5401
C1= 10uf / 25volts
D1= 12.6 volts zener / 1 watt
D2 /D3= 1n4007
SCR1 /SCR2= bt151-500 or bt151-600
D4-D7= bridge rated 100v 10A

Last Updated: October 26, 2010

Shogun Missed Shift

I recently having trouble shifting gears on my suzuki shogun 125cc, Actually, its been 2 years i am encountering missed shifts with my bike, but one day, i got convinced to dismantle my clutch and gear cam on my own when i was running hard on one day at a highway here in my country when my 3rd gear suddenly dropped to second gear on its own making my engine scream hard from my high revving run that day. It is not the first time it happened but too many times so my reaction from there was to pull the clutch lever to make it run free will then dropped my rpm to a maintainable level for my second gear..then shift again. It was scary...

Here is the tearing down of my clutch system and gear shift cam mechanism.

First is to drain the oil before removing the clutch cover..Here we have options. the drain no draining of oil procedure, I chose the drain oil procedure since i'll be changing my oil too. The second system is to lean the bike on its left side so that all the oil be on the magneto side, this to prevent oil from spilling out during clutch cover disassembly, therefore saving your oil for another use.

Second, removing the screws holding the cover to the engine, here i numbered my screws, from 1 to 9..this is my way not to interchanged each one of them..i just dont like having a lose thread somewhere...:-))

Last Updated: October 10, 2010

Smash Titan 115cc

Will this small bike be the one we are waiting for Suzuki Philippines to introduced after months of waiting?

With changes to the engine's performance is slightly better than Titan Smash. In Thailand, this is called the New Smash Titans, while the old version with a machine called the Smash Revo 110.

Dimensions. From the dimensions have not changed much. However, a longer wheelbase 15 mm (see table). Nevertheless, according to data from PT SIS, it turns out the standard Titan 4 kg heavier than Smash. When using the casting wheel disc brakes, the weight increased 2 kg so the total weight of 102 kg.

Last Updated: September 07, 2010

DC-CDI anatomy

This are some DC-CDI opened black boxes with its epoxy filled removed, and to understand and be familiar with each CDI being offered in the market, i may say some are almost identical and some are too complex to experiment with.

Here, a DC-cdi picture from whom an emailer sent to me and asking for some help. credit to you and thanks, I labeled this in order for others to understand which is which and what to look for.

Last Updated: August 20, 2010

DC-CDI schematic (updated)

DC-CDI counterpart of AC-CDI is an ignition analog or digital that uses low voltage external power supply to work. the difference AC-CDI needs external High Voltage COIL no battery configuration whereas DC-CDI needs a battery without HV COIL.
DC-CDI schematic diagram

Looking at the picture on the left, it is a complete schematic diagram of a dc-cdi. Its a 4-pin system, comprising pick-up input, battery +12 volts in, Gnd, and Ignition coil out pins. There is no High Voltage  input pin like those of AC-CDI. If it will be differentiated with the AC-CDI here, you will notice theres a transformer diagram on this schematic.The circuit on the RED BOX comprises the internal High Voltage generator of a DC-CDI, where the 12 volts battery in will be converted to 200-400 volts depending on the design of the inverter. This design uses two transistor dc-ac converter with external on/off circuit to charge and discharge the capacitor BLUE BOX via SCR. the HV converter is controlled by the circuit on GRAY box, that as soon as the pulse conditioning circuit sense the pick-up coil will send triggering signal on both SCR and HV oscillator respectively to turn them on and off at the right time.

CDI or Capacitor Discharge Ignition, from the name itself, capacitor is very critical during its operation, must handle charge and discharge time as well as heat being generated by the whole circuit inside the block box, that is why manufacturer uses special capacitors specifically made for ignitions, and not just like those mylar capacitor found on some electronic circuits. They are rated 400 to 630 volts. ranging from .47uf up to 2.2uf. Value is also so critical in every applications and designs. In this circuit, they use 1uf / 400 volts with HV out of 200 volts will equals to 20 mj.

Last Updated: August 13, 2010

Zeus 508w Visor Light

This is my helmet, as you can see the outer edges of the visor emmits blue light without having the entire visor, the visibility was not affected unless your visor have scratches and dents, that the light will penetrate too. Some people think its kind a dangerous to put light that will affect visibilty, but this mode does not as lights will not be focus directly to your eyes unless you concentrate looking at it instead of focusing on the roads.
This mods takes a little time to assemble and make.
You just need
  • two cellphone supebright leds,
  • a length of enamel wire at least number 26AWG, and or any unused earphone wire thats enameled coated.
  • a li-ion battery preferably 4 volts, 
  • a push button tact switch and
  • a know how to solder.
just take out the visor, and put the leds on each two edges.

Last Updated: August 12, 2010

Another Motorcycle Voltage Regulator

This is a circuit for regulating the output voltage on small engines. This circuit will work on engines that were originally equipped with a shunt type of voltage regulator. It is common on motorcycles, skidoos, ATVs and other recreational vehicles. This circuit was tested out on a Suzuki GS400E motorcycle and seems to function fairly well.

The above picture in comparison with the other voltage regulator posted here SCR regulator was, this one uses differential amplifier to detect battery voltage and control SCR .This has a number of advantages over using a zener diode to directly trip the gate of the

 These are:
1)If the battery voltage is forced above 13.5V, the circuit limits the current into the gate of the SCR 
preventing damage to the regulator when changing the battery 
2)The circuit is more stable over temperature. 

The main drawback is that the circuit is leaky. The differential pair should be connected after the ignition
switch to prevent the battery from draining when the engine is not used for a long period of time. This
connection is shown as MONITOR in the schematic. The output of the bridge rectifier ties to the battery at
the BATTERY connection.

With the differential pair, the base input for Q2 is connected to a voltage reference consisting of D1 and
R9. The base input for Q1 is connected to a voltage divider that monitors the battery voltage. When the
voltage on the base of Q2 is higher than the voltage on the base of Q1, Q1 will turn on shunting all of the
current from R5 to ground. When the voltage on the base of Q2 is lower than the voltage on the base of
Q1, then Q2 will turn on. This will shunt the current of R5 through the limiting resistors to the gates of the
SCR. The SCR will turn on and short out the phase. Since the stator voltages are AC, the SCR will reset at
the end of the cycle when the voltage reaches 0.

Last Updated: July 21, 2010

Yamaha DT125 CDI

This is the diagram of a china replica CDI (capacitive discharge ignition) of Yamaha DT125 2 stroke machine. The circuit can be used on other existing AC-cdi motorcycle, as long as there is a high voltage generator on the stator.

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Inside an AC-CDI of a GY6 50cc-125cc engine. An AC-CDI is a type of ignition wherein it can be operated without a battery installed on a bike but needing a HIGH VOLTAGE GENERATOR that will charge the capacitor inside the cdi to discharge tthrough your ignition coil producing spark at the spark plug unlike, dc-cd wherein no HV generator is necessary for they have a built in converter inside.

The circuit below is from a gy6 based engine. it incorporate a pulse shaping circuit, unlike the cdi of yamaha DT125 posted here Yamaha DT125 cdi.

for more ac cdi circuits and schematic diagram click here
More Ac-cdi schematic for you...

Last Updated: May 22, 2010

Motorcycle Voltage Regulator DIY

This project is a voltage regulator for a 3-phase, permanent-magnet alternator found on motorcycles. The same design can be used for single-phase alternators simply by eliminating some parts.  This project only describes the regulator, even though a rectifier is typically integrated into the unit.

Circuit Analysis:
Please refer to the circuit diagram during the analysis of the circuit.

The way this type of regulator controls the alternator’s output voltage is by simply shorting out the stator winding for one cycle of the ac waveform. This is called shunting. This is done because it is much easier to short-circuit an inductor (the stator winding is an inductor) than to open-circuit an inductor. Very high voltages are induced when an inductor circuit is opened. This may cause a breakdown in the winding’s insulator.

The device used to shunt one cycle of one phase is an SCR. A silicon-controlled rectifier acts as a diode when triggered at its gate. It stops conducting when the current drops below a very low threshold value. Once it stops conducting, it will not conduct again until it receives another gate signal.

A voltage detection circuit is used to trigger the gate on each of the three SCRs. The threshold voltage to trigger the gate is selected as 14.6volt (on the motorcycle’s system-voltage). This is when the gate would trigger if there were no capacitor as described in the next paragraph.

Since the voltage from an alternator fluctuates, the detection circuit will trigger during a peak in the waveform of one of the phases, but this causes the average voltage to be too low. To raise the average system-voltage without increasing the detection threshold, a simple capacitor is used to delay the triggering of the SCR gates.  The capacitor acts as a filter to reduce the ac ripple going to the detection circuit. If the system voltage was strictly DC voltage (with no ripple) the gate would trigger at 14.6v and the average voltage would be 14.6v. In reality, the average voltage is always less than the threshold voltage and only approaches it as the ripple reduces. The actual trigger voltage is higher than 14.6v, but the average voltage is lower than 14.6v. As the ripple reduces, the average and trigger voltages approach 14.6v.

Last Updated: May 20, 2010

Shogun Speedometer Panel

Let us take a look inside the speedometer panel of a suzuki shogun 125cc, as shown on the left with speedometer pointer  and lcd remove. The main controller of this panel is a chip made by fujitsu with part number MB89943 which is an 8-bit cpu, controlling everything from the movement of the speedometer needle, lcd display. and counter. Data then are stored like odometer, speedometer reset, fuel gauge calibration on the a microwire bus eeprom with part number L46R.

 Shogun 125cc user espescially those 2006 model and below experiencing odometer stuck up to 99,999.9 and uncapable of resetting itself back to zero..unfortunately newer model already have its own data stored on the eeprom that resets the odometer after reaching the said value.

The only solution to this problem is to inject the new data stored on newer speedometer panel eeprom to IC5 (L46R) by using an eeprom programmer like IC prog with interface such as tait serial programmer and or JDM programmer.

Last Updated: May 17, 2010

High Power Leds

Power led is the new era of led lighting, both at home and automobile use. They come in a variety of it, from 1 watt up to 20 watts..being 20 watts made by china of course..

Lighting Company is the world's leading manufacturer of high-
power LEDs and a pioneer in the use of LED lighting solutions for everyday, made the so called LUXEON LEDS.

Such application of this leds are seen in flashlights as shown here. They are far better than those of maglite. They are also widely use as an alternative lighting solution to halogen on some mountain bikers worldwide due to their versatility. The only problem enthusiast who uses this kind of leds are the constant current driver itself..unlike those 5mm super bright leds, resistor or linear current regulator is enough for some simple applications, but for some who really want to gain the best of this leds, Constant current led drivers are there to the rescue.

Last Updated: May 06, 2010

Naphthalene use as fuel mileage

Can this magical white balls do the trick on improving fuel mileage using the poor e10 based     gasoline. Eversince i used this greener fuel on my motorcycle, it performs really bad, worse of it, i cannot even get me rolling to 200km on a 4.5 liter full tank the way i used to have using non e10 gas.

Naphthalene was used as a fuel, before WWII, and race car drivers used it to boost octane by adding 5 mothballs to every gallon of fuel. That amount caused the engine to carbonize. Today, many are using it to get better mileage out of gasoline and diesel engines. Some have reported fantastic gains up to 96% in V8 engines.
Old Fashioned Moth Balls are 99.5% pure Naphthalene. That is the only type of mothball that works.  A friend told me they are illegal in Europe.It can takes a mothball an hour or more to dissolve in your tank. Some people crush them up first. In cooler weather, it will take longer; take this into consideration in order to prevent a buildup in your tank.Oh, the gas pills you hear about - Naphthalene :)

Oh well its worth to try, we might even know unless we try, Am i right?

Testing fuel for alcohol content

Alcohol doesn't have as many BTU's as gasoline, and it doesn't perform the same. I will show you how to test your fuel for alcohol content.

Things You'll Need:

  • 100 ml graduated cylinder
  • fuel sample
  • tap water

  • Collect a fuel sample from your car's fuel supply. I use a clean 1 liter pop bottle that is clean and dry (so you contaminate your sample).
  • Pour 90 ml of your fuel sample into the 100 ml graduated cylinder. Add 10 ml of water to the cylinder and cover the top with your finger and shake. Shake it hard.
  • shake really hard. You want to emulsify (break up into zillions of minute particles) the water so those water bubbles come into contact with all the gas molecules

  • Let the fuel sample set for 10 to 15 minutes. The alcohol will combine with the water and separate from the fuel. Read the line where it separates.Now comes the calculation, with 100 ml = 100% Looking at the cylinder, the way we would read this is: The line is on the 53 and we know 10% was water to begin with. The water will settle to the bottom because water is heavier than gasoline. 53-10=43 This sample would be 43% alcohol, which would be way to much for a 10% blend and most cars would run very poorly if they started at all.
 Not all gasoline provider are created equal, they say its not ethanol based yet where in fact user dont know how to detect the presence of alcohol on the gasoline they are purchasing, it might be too late.

Last Updated: May 05, 2010

Small Engine EFI conversion Kit

World's first small engine conversion kit. This kit will allow you to change your carbureted engine to fuel injection. The only thing needed is a 12 volt charging system.      
 Due to the era of E10 or ethanol based gasoline, small engines that utilizes the conventional carburetor are most affected. Fuel consumption up, thus spending more money on gas fill up. low mileage, erratic idle, and engine power down, frequent carb tuning. sometimes engine pull hard, and in times pull so weak.

I think its time to give way for those EFI be fitted on small engines, like scooters and underbones here in Asia. particularly here in the Philippines.

Suzuki, Honda, already offered 125cc small engine that uses EFI system particularly in indonesia, and from their testimony in a forum, where i am also still active, they say YES, the EFI performs better, little tweaking since fuel delivery is electronically controlled by the ECU, get a much higher mileage, thus spending less on gasoline. 

Shogun Clutch Spring and lining

Sliding clutch, delay of power, fuel consumption up. This are some of the reason the CLUTCH system of your shogun must be inspected, and in need of repairs.

This photo shows the internals of the right side crankcase cover of a manual transmission shogun. The release plate cover of the clutch spring has been removed to expose the 4 clutch spring, In order to remove the plate, you'll be needing the close wrench #10, two of them actually in order to counter the rotation of the clutch system when dismantling the release plate.


This is a closer view of the clutch spring, An OEM parts is fitted here, but there are other alternatives out in the market that differs in stiffness like KITTI racing clutch spring, as shown kitti

Making the clutch spring more stiff means extra performance on clutch grip thus improving torque and power but with the expense the life of your lining.

Other motorcycle enthusiast actually trying to replace 2 of the 4 spring with stiff ones to improve clutch grip with less effort on pressing the clutch lever, What they didnt know, it deformes the release plate and have an un even wear on the lining...Its better to replace 4 rather than two.

Last Updated: May 04, 2010

Suzuki Shogun Night rider 125 II

Technical Specifications
Engine type
Bore x Stroke
Compression ratio
Max Power
Max Torque
Fuel system
Final drive
Ignition type
Starting system
Intake system
Spark plug
Gear ratios

Air cooled, 4-stroke, SOHC, single cylinder
53.5 x 55.2 mm
124 cc
4 valves per cylinder
10.0 ps @ 8.500 rpm
0.98 kg-m @ 5.500 rpm
MIKUNI VM 18 - 264
4-speed rotary

Kick & electric starter

12 V (3,5 Ah)/10 HR7,0 L
Frame type
Overall length
Overall width
Overall height
Seat height
Ground clearance
Fuel capacity
Suspension (front)
Suspension (rear)
Tyre (front)
Tyre (rear)
Brake (front)
Brake (rear)

1905 mm
715 mm
1075 mm
1220 mm
770 mm
135 mm
108 kg
4.3 litres
Telescopic, coil spring, oil damped
Swingarm type, coil spring, gas/oil damped
70/90-17 M/C 38P
80/90-17 M/C 44P
Hydraulic disc 290 mm
Hydraulic disc 220 mm

Of all the shogun variant, this model impresses me by its color
 combination, and with specs indicated above, i for sure will give suzuki philippines a better upper hand on its 125cc commuter bike if they will introduced it this year. Compared to its predessesor the Shogun PRO..(philippine brand) Shogun SP (indonesian brand), Best 125 (thailand brand), the night rider version not only with its look, that was changed, even the engine efficiency was totally upgraded, with a new crank balancer to minimize engine vibration, POWER and TORQUE was uplifted...

maximum horsepower at 10,0 Ps/8.000 rpm and maximum torque at 0,98 Kg.m . 6.000 rpm, this data alone gave NR the upperhand on all 125cc commuter bike being offered on all asian countries.

Last Updated: April 30, 2010

Kymco Like 125

Kymco have a host of new scooter models ready for launch in 2010. The first scooter is the Like, available in both 50 cc 4 stroke and a larger capacity 125.  The Like would have to be one of the most highly anticipated models to come out of Taiwan from the Kymco brand


The big feature on the Kymco Like is the style. Very classic whilst still being individual to a point. The lines are clean cut and it looks somewhere in between that Vespa and Lambretta look. Kymco have taken maybe what they thought to be the best of both and moulded them into one neat package. From the chrome surrounds on the headlight and fairing, the even larger rear tail-light or even the long vented elongated panels down the side, the Like just has a nice non offensive coolness about it.

Kymco have thought long and hard about this model, practicality reigns supreme and a whole host of ideas have made there way to the production line. First up lets look at the host of storage options on the Kymco Like. We have a colour coded top box standard that uses the same key as the ignition, a full face helmet will fit in here no problems at all. Under the seat is half helmet territory, though we do have two helmet hooks if required. You open the seat via a lock on the side panel, again same key. A flat floor with bag hook just in-case your carrying more then you anticipated. Finally we have plenty of room in the large glove-box which also features a handy 12 volt charger. Nice touch is the clear plastic strip that stops articles from falling forward once the glove-box is opened.

The dash is keeping in theme. Very classic and very analogue apart from the small digital clock. Just fuel and speed but really what more is required. Switchgear looks and works a treat and its all pretty much standard affair. Lights have their own separate switch to turn on and off. Nice feature on all Taiwanese scooters is the audible blinker indicator, a small warning for when you leave the blinkers on.

want to know more of this follow me thank you for this link

Last Updated: April 14, 2010

I wish i was SIXTEEN

Suzuki introduces step, hayate, skydrive, in asian markets..but why in the world they never introduces the so called  sixteen  

It was 2008 when europe launches this one of a kind beautiful scooter in spain, to compete with those 250cc type in their market. With its elegant style, with a touch of retrospect, launching it here in the philippines might be the break SUZUKI philippines would wanted to boost their chances of beating other competitors with the first Fuel injected liquid cooled scooter if ever.

Overall length: 2060mm (81.1in)
Overall width: 740mm (29.1in)
Overall height: 1145mm (45.1in)
Wheelbase: 1385mm (54.5in)
Seat height: 800mm (31.5in)
Kerb Mass: 142kg (313.1lbs)
Fuel capacity: 8.5litres (1.9 UK gallons)


Engine capacity: 124cc
Engine: 4-stroke, 1cylinder, liquid-cooled, SOHC
Bore: 53.5mm x 55.2mm
Compression ratio: 11.5:1
Lubrication: Wet sump
Ignition: Electronic ignition (Transistorised)
Fuel system: Fuel injection
Transmission: Dry shoe, automatic, centrifugal type


Front suspension: Telescopic, coil spring, oil damped
Rear suspension: Swingarm type, coil spring, oildamped
Front brakes: Hydraulic disc
Rear brakes: Hydraulic disc
Front tyres: 100/80-16M/C 50p, tubeless
Rear tyres: 100/80-16M/C 60p, tubeless


Plenty of Storage

A lockable front box for gloves etc, a bag hook below the instrument panel, underseat storage for a small helmet.

Tough 16-inch Wheels
Simple but sporty aluminium-cast, 5-spoke 16-inch wheels that run smoothly even over cobbled roads.

Combined Dual Disc Brake

This system allow braking action to feel steady. Gripping the right brake lever acts on the front wheel, while gripping the left brake lever applies a well-balanced pressure to both wheels to help bring the bike to a smooth stop.

Urban Friendly Engine
The fuel-injected engine gives good start-up performance, has high fuel efficiency and is green-friendly.

Rider-friendly InstrumentationClearly laid out instrumentation includes a large speedometer. Handy oil change indicator lights up after the first 1,000km and then every 4,000km after that, signalling the accurate timing for an oil change.

A Design Maximised for ComfortA low 800mm seat and a floorboard that curves slightly inwards just below the feet, make it easy to get a firm foothold on the ground. Stopping and going on busy streets won't be a chore anymore.

Last Updated: April 04, 2010

Side mirror signal lights

--> just an update to my post signaling side mirror, now as well as the face of the side mirror..heres the link for PART 1


it is noticeable that it aint that bright since theres an issue if i'll make it as bright as it should be and might implict the visibility of the face of the mirror..so i intentionally make it like this..that during daytime all you can notice is just some dots on the edge of the mirror..as shown

Last Updated: February 26, 2010

ALL about E-10

Fuel + Ethanol = THE FACTS

1. The legal and manufacturer recommended limit for ethanol in conventional gas is 10%. The actual percent ethanol found at individual pumps/stations varies, and will change with each (daily) fuel delivery.

Note: On April 21st, 2009 the EPA received an application from ACE, Growth

Energy and 54 ethanol producers seeking to increase E10 to 15% ethanol.
Ethanol is usually added by the local fuel distributors/suppliers, not at the major gas brand company refineries. Gas stations are not legally required to monitor gas daily for accurate/exact percentage ethanol.

2. Several states still do not label pumps (E10 sticker) when ethanol alcohol is added to gas, including:

District of Columbia, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Maryland, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nevada, New Jersey, North Carolina, and Ohio; New Hampshire may soon discontinue labeling.

3. Ethanol is an ethyl alcohol, renewable fuel and is used to oxygenate gas. Ethanol is a solvent, cleanser, degreaser, drying agent, antifreeze and octane enhancer. Petroleum oil fuel that contains ethanol will attract and absorb water; Oil (gas) and water do not mix.

4. Before switching to E-10, make sure to remove all gas from tank if containing MTBE. Also, remove all water, dirt, rust, and sediment from tank. Replace parts that are not resistant to alcohol. Plastic and rubber parts, hoses, and seals are most vulnerable. To be compatible with higher oxygen content of ethanol-blended gasoline, fuel system parts and pumps, piston and carburetor, oxygen sensors, may need to be changed or adjusted.

5. Replace the gas in your fuel tank at least every 1-3 weeks.
Shelf life of E-10 fuel is only about 3 months in an ideal environmental (low humidity) storage conditions.

6. Choose a higher octane premium E10 gasoline (91-93) when your engine is at greater risk; Extended storage, lives in a water environment, vented fuel tank in humid environment, etc. Lean, water-diluted fuel drops octane and causes fuel starvation.

7. Know the symptoms and negative effects of high alcohol and/or water contaminated gas.
Stalling, hesitation during acceleration, clogged fuel filters and carburetor, damage to fuel and VRO pumps and pistons, damage to fuel injectors, disintegration and dissolving of engine parts (especially rubber and plastic), drying-out and cracking of parts, hoses and seals, and much more.

8. Frequently check gasoline for signs of water contamination (WC) and phase separation (PS). Two distinct layers can be seen after WC/PS. Alcohol and water combine and drop to the bottom of tank leaving an upper petroleum octane deficient layer. PS gas is contaminated and should not be used.

9. Prevent external water and moisture (high humidity) from coming in contact with E-10 gas.
Keep engine well lubricated to prevent water damage and rusting. Check that fuel lines are sealed and intact. If available for your engine, install a water separator filter of 10-12 microns.

10. Safely Removing Water from Phase Separated E10 Fuel:
Be aware that when E10 gas is phase-separated, the bottom layer contains both water and "octane-enhancing" ethanol. When you remove the water/ethanol lower layer, the upper petroleum layer becomes octane deficient. Drop usually equals 2 to 4 octane points. Running an engine on below recommended octane will cause drivability issues and parts damage (e.g. piston/valve damage).

11. Check your engine owner’s manual for recommended fuel type and octane rating.
Many older engines, luxury cars, classic cars, lawn and other small gas-powered equipment and several marine and motorcycle engines often prohibit or warn against the use of E10 and other alcohol gas blends. Marine engines have greatest risk for water absorption, corrosion, parts disintegration and engine damage.

12. Use caution when choosing gas additive products to "prevent" or "fix" E10 gasoline problems. Watch out for deceptive advertising by numerous new ethanol "miracle" product companies. Ethanol already in fuel (up to 10% legal max) often replaces your need for additional additives since it is a powerful solvent, cleanser, antifreeze, octane enhancer and water absorber

13. Avoid alcohol-based fuel additives and gas treatment products with E-10 fuel. Too much alcohol will increase your risk for engine damage. All current major engine manufacturer warranty statements prohibit use of gas with over 10% ethanol. (Excludes FFV's). Damage will not be covered when cause is contaminated gasoline. Octane boosters, fuel system cleaners and conditioners often contain ethyl alcohol.

14. Never use E85 fuel (85% alcohol) in an engine not designed for it. Check vehicle gas cap for E85 label.

15. Know the specific fuel laws and E10 labeling laws for your state. State-by-state laws vary widely and have changed often since the widespread distribution of ethanol. In 2008, several states passed laws to add ethanol to all public gas supply. Other states are now passing laws to leave ethanol out of premium gas...

This information is a general guideline only for conventional vehicles and gas-powered engines using E10 gasoline.

Last Updated: January 05, 2010

High Intensity Discharged ballast

Once more here i am in continue of giving you out some ideas and do it yourself thing..but now lets go to another level...the electrical side...and presenting inside what i called "LIGHT ME UP"....the hid ballast..

first and foremost what is HID lamp?...High Intensity Disacharge lamp

High-intensity discharge (HID) lamp -- A lamp that produces light by passing electricity through gas, which causes the gas to glow. Examples of HID lamps are mercury vapor lamps, metal halide lamps, and high-pressure sodium lamps. HID lamps have extremely long life and emit far more lumens per fixture than do fluorescent lights.

Hid lamp is not the same as those filament bulbs as our stock bulbs. this hid lamps must be ignited by means of the so called BALLAST to provide a brief high voltage to the lamp this producing arc that makes the lamp glow...

Common problems motorcyclist that installed HID lamp, forgotten that ballast are so prone to malfunction espescially when it comes to the input voltage..that it must not exceed 16 volts for a long period of time. and sometimes, forgot that even if it shielded, (some dont have epoxy resin) are prone to moisture and proper positioning of the ballast must be set aside...the less water to penetrate in area on a motorcycle the best possible position of the ballast.

now lets move on to the inside of a HID ballast...

HID ballast top cover remove and as you can see the epoxy..this unit is just partially filled with epoxy resin that didnt cover all components that shall be prone to moisture which in time will fail. This unit actually has a problem that it can start up the lamp but cant sustain the current to drive the lamp thus in turn make the lamp glow off after start up..In order to repair this i have to remove the epoxy resins. Im in luck this time coz unlike my previous attempt to open one...this is much easier..

time to get moving...to remove the board from its housing we need to split the epoxy resin on all of the side by means of any flat spatula..(DO NOT USE FLAT screwdriver, we wont be able to know if there are components at the sides that might get damaged by the screwdriver.

when it feels the board aint stuck with the metal housing time for a push, gently on the top down not all the way since there still a component that needs to be desolder and thats the high tension wire and the supply rail of the ballast...as shown below

To be continued................