Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

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Last Updated: October 26, 2014

Motorcycle Charging For HID (full wave conversion)

Installing High Intensity Discharge on a small motorcycle which utilizes the Half Wave charging system will surely have lots of problem when it comes to battery not being charge to the fullest when using HID. This kind of lighting system actually not common to users consume a lot of current from striking the bulb all the way up to where it stabilizes. Even the re-striking from momentarily turning off the HID SYSTEM consumes battery power.

How to compensate for the loss of charge when using HID system?...The answer, by converting the original half wave system into a full wave generator, by altering the winding of the generator inside the crankcase. Looking at the graph of each type below.

By analyzing each of the graph generated by such system, it is very obvious that the full wave 3P when rectified and filtered produces a clean stable dc, that is why many sportsbike and higher displacement machine uses this kind of system. But why do they not used this on smaller bikes like moped and scooters.

Probably because of COST and size of the system. that is why manufacturers, instead relied on the low cost smaller size half wave generator system for carbureted type small machines. We cannot denied the fact, low cost means limited function.

Fuel injected nowadays been incorporated to small bikes like Shogun FI, honda scoopy I, and almost but not all bikes in thailand uses FI uses the three phase system already, so fitting HID system is of no trouble.

But how about to carbureted type?

It can be done, again by changing and converting it to full wave system to generate a more stable dc that will charge the onboard battery and compensate the losses done by the HID system..

FURTHERMORE, never insist the half wave system is enough for hid installation. It is simply not enough even if upgrading to a larger battery capacity.

Disclaimer: I will not held responsible if something goes wrong upon using this conversion without enough knowledge of how the system works, and electrical / technical skills at hand.. BE ADVISED that this modification is not intended for beginner or first time doing it. 

Getting deeper.

Materials needed.

  1. full wave rectifier / regulator (known as R / R too many) like this Full wave regulator 5 wire
  2. soldering iron at least 50-100watts
  3. high temp insulator tube  
  4. OPTIONAL : New crankcase cover gasket (when returning the modified stator and placing the cover back to the engine) 
  5. A digital or analog multimeter (tester too many)

IT is time to rock!!!

Remove the left crankcase cover to gain access on the stator

This stator is from a Suzuki SKYWAVE 125cc, same with shogun FD125XRM and Shogun FL125. There are three wire soldered to its connector base, find the ground by using a mutimeter set to OHMS , connect the black probe to the stator body and red probe to any of the three soldered wires.

The one with the lowest reading of the three is the wire connected directly to ground, with the highest being the end of the winding that will be used later, the last winding will not be used since it is the lighting coil output and will be disregarded all through out the procedure.

Remove the soldered wire to the stator body to FLOAT all windings...(all windings must not touch the body of the stator, full wave will have its own ground via the BRIDGE rectifier of the FULL wave regulator.)

With the ground wire desoldered from its original position, insert the high temperature tube and solder the wire removed from the lighting coil..

FOR SHOGUN its the yellow wire with white strip.

For other brand..please follow your wiring diagram.

what we trying to do here is getting the two end of the stator winding and removing the GROUND from the stator body as shown on the illustration.

when done, first is first..check for continuity and resistance of the whole winding before returning back the cover to ensure everything done is OK!!

Getting ready to wire the regulator from the modified generator

It is very difficult to know if the purchased R/R is a half wave or full wave if check only by appearance although manufacturers uses color coded wire like the photo shown, perhaps by using a diode tester (multimeters) and check every wire, we might be able to distinguished them. As i had told you, there are 4 pin and 5pin full wave available out in the market. If in a way you find such like as shown then probability is they are the same.

By following the color of the wires

  1. Green -- ground
  2. Red    -- to battery positive line
  3. Yellow -- to charging coil (any of the two winding out from the stator)
  4. Pink --- to charging coil (interchangeable with yellow)
  5. Black --- To after ignition key switch

To be sure and safe, for this test use appropriate FUSE  within the positive line going to the battery. its the last line of defense when it comes to possible wrong connection.

Disconnect all loads from the battery, if you have access to another way of supplying your CD ignition then do so..because we have to start the engine to perform TEST. with the help of the multimeter set to DC voltage. tap it to the battery that is connected to the regulator..

GREEN to black probe
RED to red probe

check voltage....you are reading the battery voltage, on the ignition key and take a look at value, after turning on the key engine OFF, the voltage must not be dropping and stay close to the initial reading.

kick the KICK starter, and stay it at idle, monitor the voltage. READING must now be moving up possible to 13 volts or 14 volts..(depends on the condition of the battery)..

SLOWLY REV the engine while monitoring the voltage reading of the tester.....

as you are revving the engine..voltage must stay close to 15 volts not over 16 volts (overcharging threshold of lead acid battery)..

if all test performed are ok with regulator not to temperature....PUT a load on the battery such as your HID installed...then start the SAME TEST again...

at first when you turn on the High intensity discharge system..at IDLE the voltage must not be dropping and will stay close to 12-13 volts..

if it is, then the system is already working..By looking at the graph above..FULL wave due to the better DC filtering, at idle or low rpm still charging the battery unlike the HALF wave where in the dc is fluctuating.

Full wave also has a better shunting than half wave to the configuration of the rectifying diodes.

NOW u can enjoy your HID system, just make sure you are responsible enough to stoop down the beam for others. happy motoring.

NOTE: since the lighting coil is disconnected and no longer used, all that was connected before will be redirected to the battery being battery operated.


For the full schematic diagram of the regulator on this article, you can visit this link


VIDEO of this conversion. (many thanks to Thiago Ken Fuzita)

Last Updated: October 12, 2014

Testing Motorcycle CDI Ignition Coil

CD ignition coil is a step up transformer that transform the voltage generated by the internal HV converter of a CDI into 20 to 40kv in order to achieve a spark at the tip of the plug. Do not be mistaken, CDI coil differs from TCI coil, and almost all available Ignition coil has only one purpose, To produce an arc to spark plug inside the combustion. Photo shown are some variants of ignition coil used on AC-CDI and DC-CDI. At top is china made ignition coil derived from a certain pioneer brand bike, center coil came from my GY6 scooter, and the bottom taken from my existing suzuki shogun 125cc commuter bike. The article will tell us the basic test of ignition coil, that is, resistance and inductance test. The benefits of knowing their resistance and inductance will tell us if the coil will be providing enough energy for our ignition beyond optimum level.

Primary winding compose of few turns thus resistance reading will show milliohms reading and almost zero  when using ordinary DVM, thus inductance may be a better choice for an instrument to test it, while as the secondary compose of a hundred turns, it is capable of resistance test.

here are the variation of reading of those three mentioned CDI coil above

The primary winding of the China made CD coil is about 34 uh, when i tried to take resistance test on this side, i only gain 0.3 ohms

for the GY6 coil, i got 29 uh still with a resistance of 0.3 ohms

and for my OEM ignition coil (suzuki shogun 125cc coil) got a reading of 66 uh but still with a reading of 0.3 ohms.

I did this test to be able to determine how it will affect my ignition before i tried to test it on board my motorcycle with the exception of my OEM. Yes they will all work since they are made for a CD ignition. and this inductance will primarily affect the transfer of energy towards the secondary winding of the coil.

For the secondary winding basic test, i use the resistance check, for my homemade inductance tester can only reach the 1 mh range.

Secondary resistance of the china made was 5.65 kohms

GY6 secondary winding resistance of 3.00 kohms

and OEM stands at 6.57 kohms

Higher resistance reading of the secondary means more number of turns and may transform it to a higher voltage output when the primary is being switched by the ignition controller, but then the primary winding also has an adverse effect on the secondary winding. Only by using HIGH voltage tester, we can assure of the reading, but because ignition coil are HIGHLY shield by epoxy resin, we cannot determine if the theory is in fact true that the more number of turns and higher resistance reading will produce more hotter spark.

Soon i will try to make an IGNITION COIL tester to see how the spark is generated by this three outside the combustion..

but then what we will see outside will differ if its inside due the pressure of the combustion. as of now resistance and inductance test is highly recommended for those who wants to try out different CDI coil available.

I am using by the way the china made coil, rather than my SHOGUN OEM, for a change. :-)