Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.

HOW CDI WORKS

CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Last Updated: November 25, 2014

FD125XRM clutch repair (clutch basket)

Too many problems may be felt within the clutch system of small commuter motorcycles if it is not given some time to be checked at least every 5 years depending on the mileage and the way the motorcycle is driven. Nowadays, friction plates are getting cheaper. but the process of inspecting this critical part of any motorcycle is not an easy task especially if it is a multi-plate, wet clutch system. Often times, clutch drag and slipping clutch is a very common problem we may encounter.

Photo shown came from a 10 year old 125cc motorcycle, it was never been inspected up until this writing. The friction plate provided the groove to where the rest during operation. Notice the four groove s only at one side of the clutch basket (the other side do not actually have it, since the motorcycle is being kept moving forward and the rotation is always clockwise).

This photo shows how the friction plates and the steel plates are netted together inside the outer clutch basket.

They are stack in a friction plate followed by steel plates alternately, and is covered by the inner plate with the clutch spring attached to it.

If you want to know how this system works.You can watch it here to be familiar with it.


The Outer clutch basket i think is in lieu for replacement, but up to this writing, with no enough resources to do so, i will re use it and instead will be modifying it to accept an additional steel plate and another friction plate to make it a FIVE (5) piece clutch system..

Note: The whole procedure of the modification will not be discussed, for the stock clutch basket is not intended for an additional friction plates. Replacing washers, taking the tight clearances of the whole basket must be considered and any miscalculation on anyone's part will be a disastrous one inside the engine. So this modification is not for the masses. 

The next photo will reveal that it is indeed too tight for an additional friction plates and steel plates on a stock hub or stock clutch basket.

The look of the STOCK with four plates attached.

The look of the MODDED stock basket with five plates installed.

Now I know many of you will ask?

What is the ADVANTAGE of having a stock four friction plate on a modded five friction plate installed?

Ans: I did try to test drive it to see if i can still shift to any gears, that because of the tight spaces between the friction plate and the steel plate, as i read from the internet, only a small gap is needed to release the tension on each and one of them to DISENGAGED the whole clutch system from driving the the drive shaft.

The torque of power transfer within the system improves. The motorcycle now pulls a lot of it during uphill climb that even on my third gear..

(By the way the stock sprocket of my motorcycle is 14/35 to where it was change to 16/34 prior to the modded clutch system and do not pull at third gear on uphill with four piece friction plates.)

I wanted to test it on a stock combination to feel the difference but up to this moment i am enjoying the current 16/34 (low speed sprocket ratio)..

Again, the POWER TRANSFER of the crankshaft to the drive shaft by the clutch was improved.

Lesson to be learned from here is that.

1. Often times when you are replacing the FRICTION plates on your motorcycle when it is time for the replacement, be sure to check the outer basket for groove. The groove makes the friction plate stick on it, thereby making it difficult to shift at times..no many times, because when the plate is stuck they do not disengaged with the steel plates.So better check it.

2. Do not grind the groove, friction plate must not have slack on that area. if the groove is too much..replace the whole clutch basket, inner and outer is a MUST.

Last Updated: November 22, 2014

Motorcycle Camshaft Decompression Pin

We all know some motorcycle camshaft especially those SOHC engine have a so called Decompression cam or other called it Decompression Pin. But what it is really for what? Take a look at the picture of a shogun 125cc motorcycle equipped with this pin. The hook like pin located at the cam gear of the camshaft is the decompression pin. With that position (hook is resting towards the center, it is actually in the ON position. It already trigger the exhaust valve to open so that when we turned off the engine, the combustion chamber releases unwanted compressed mixture at the exhaust. This scenario makes it easier to start the engine by allowing fresh mixture to enter the chamber when we turned on the engine again. There is more, the unwanted kick back of the kick starter to which can cause injury when turning the engine by kick when the combustion chamber have leftover combustible mixture if this pin is not present.

Others find it difficult to understand why it was there, and they tend to remove this pin saving weight on their motorcycle in order to produce a little more top end, but what they do not actually know. As of my findings in my 10 year old shogun 125cc was. when my decompression pin stop operating normally due to the spacer break down as shown,
i have a real hard time starting it in the morning and kick always kick back to me, and so i decided to replace it with such that can cope the tromendous heat build up inside by handcrafting the spacer from a fiberglass PCB as shown.
I was so lucky that the broken plastic part of the valve train did not manage to create havoc inside my engine because it was trapped somewhere that i manage to pull out when i checked my clutch lining (an article is being written after this)..

I also found out that without the pin attached to the camshaft..and start the engine, abnormal vibration can be felt at the head area, and so i believe it has a function that when the camshaft is turning and the hook begins to move outwards near the edge of the cam gear due to INERTIA, it acts as a balancer of the camshaft for the hook part is against the LOBE of the cam.

So to those who are eyeing of removing this pin..take a closer look at the photo on how this part actually works. It was there for a reason., and removing this will not add you some extra HP or gain you some at the top end.