Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

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Last Updated: July 10, 2014

License Plate Led Lamp DIY

Led due to their low current consumption characteristic are nowadays being used on motorcycles and automotive lighting solutions. They are replacing those filament bulbs for signal lights, brake and tail lights, panel lights, plate number led lamp and as well as daytime running lights. In this page, I am trying to make my own led lamp  for license plate for i broke the housing when i've gotten to replace those busted bulb, so i have no choice but to replace them with led light type and mold the board that will fit inside the broken housing.

License plate light housing is removed taking it apart to look for where the smd led array will fit.
The broken hole to where the light bulb holder cannot be fixed and will no longer hold it in place. The holder broke due to the brittleness made by the bulb heat during operation was the most likely suspect. Damn bulbs.. :))

Taking it apart, There's the area that can be used to hold the board of the led.
Cut an empty copper board that will fit on that area and come up with this.

note: The process of how to make PCB on all my projects here are not being used here. If you want to know how to make one, then probably your best tutorial is....GOOGLE :)

Moving forward

After removing excess copper board to produce the PCB for the SMD led. In order for the foil path not getting corroded by moisture, i have no intentions of removing those toner coating. Only the area for soldering will be scrape.

Now populate the board with the parts needed for this DIY. Smd led first, look for proper orientation. They are 3 in series with each string have their own limiting resistor of 180 ohms, then paralleled those strings or array.

(no schematic is needed if you know how to work on light emitting diode)

SMD led where taken from old household led lamp,  just recycled every part i have.

After populating the board. Fit it inside the license plate lighting module as shown using the white holder to secure the led array inside.

Testing it is easy, use 12 volts supply. There let there be a plate number led lamp.

By comparing the led lamp to the bulb type..What a big difference with the intensity of the light. Successful DIY.

Last Updated: July 07, 2014

Raider 150 CDI exposed

Raider R150 dc-cdi can rev as much as 13,000 rpm, but when use to other suzuki made underbone motorcycle such as shogun pro 125cc, the performance is almost identical to the shogun oem cdi. So out from curiousity, the cdi internal needs to be exposed, like the one i did to this shogun pro 125cc CDI and to this Kawasaki barako 150cc CDI.

Let the tear down begin

First the case must be destroyed and removed to gain way to the rubber coating of the board as shown, any type of diagonal cutter can do this job.

closer look of the cdi without and removed plastic cover case.

another close up view before manually scraping that rubber epoxy that covers the entire components of the cdi. (this will be needing a huge sign of patience)

After hours of scraping  the bits of broken glass that covers the cdi together with the sticky rubber epoxy, the cdi board is almost expose.

Almost done the top layer of this cdi. If you take a closer look at the CDI board of the shogun and the barako 125, they are almost identical, parts are the same, MCU are the same using the motorola processor, uses the same High Voltage generating circuit, identical capacitor with a value of 2.0uf/400v. all of them has the Tx and Rx port for PC communication that up until now, i have not found any that will be used to communicate. What differentiate this with the other two, this cdi have a TACHOMETER out for the panel. Yes a tachometer signal out for getting the engine revs at real time. Sooner, i will draw the schematic of this cdi.

The three board side by side:

The Shogun Pro 125 has a TPS input pin whileas the Raider 150 CDI uses the same pin but in this case a tachometer out. The kawasaki barako on the other hand is not connected elsewhere.

Kawasaki Barako DC-CDI
1. Ignition Coil OUTPUT
2, Ground
3. Ground
4. Pulser coil INPUT
5. No connection
6. 12V B+ Input

Shogun PRO 125cc DC-CDI
1. Ignition Coil OUTPUT
2. Ground
3. Optional For HV out.. (actual have no connection)
4. Pulser coil INPUT
5. TPS INPUT (from carburetor)
6. 12V B+ INPUT

Raider 150 (gen2) DC-CDI
1. Ignition Coil OUTPUT
2. Ground
3. Ground
4. Pulser Coil INPUT
5. Tachometer OUTPUT
6. 12V B+ INPUT

Disclaimer: no copyright infrigement, the purpose of exposing this OEM CDI are for educational purposes only.

Last Updated: July 04, 2014

Honda H logo illuminated


Having a lighted Logo in a vehicle is sometime a head turner, especially if it is crafted and done by ourselves. Although many online products being introduced all over the net, they are all plug and play, and the possibility of costumize it on your intended area of placement cannot be done. So ..

why not make your own. Last time. I did the Honda CIVIC emblem embedded on the side sill of the vehicle,

 see this link. Civic Side Sill

This time it is an emblem that will be put in front of the Honda Civic front grill.
. All materials used in this innovative part is mainly the same as to the others written elsewhere on this site. To get moving, The Homemade CNC router, engraver will still gonna be used, A handy machine for hobbyist for engraving.

No resources of buying your own machine, why not make your own out from defective printers, faxes, etc etc. see link. home made CNC router

Materials needed.
1. Acrylic sheet again
2. CNC engraver machine
3. PC with CNC controller software like KCAM4
4. Modeller software like CUT2D
5. sandpapers
6. Patience

Expect it to be a long and tiring process to get what we wanted, but rest assure, it will be interesting seeing the outcome.

Getting the exact dimension of the logo in front of the grill is the first step, this is to be entered on the modeller software for vectors. , After getting the right size and the vectors for the cutting and engraving the logo automatically,
we then proceed to getting the profile and convert it to a code that the CNC controller will be using.

The Cnc controller will then send the right coordinates based on the code we opened for the software to process.

The home made CNC engraver lack the speed to finish the job in less than an hour, and with the less efficient stepper motors on board, the curve is not that perfect, still it made the logo as i wanted, and the unwanted material must be manually done still using the machine at idle.

Comparing the two crafted logo.
 left is handmade, right is engraved by the machine.

Finished Logo. Just needed to put the right placement of led lighting to illuminate the emblem soon....