Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Last Updated: June 27, 2012

Quantum Battery initial charging

Quantum battery needs initial charge before using it on a motorcycle to equalized battery plates, even other batteries needs an initial charge before using. Here, a newly bought quantum battery will undergo initial charging before fitting it on a bike.

Before putting the electrolyte, check for defects, if none, go fill the acid to every hole using the level indicated in front of the battery, UPPER is the level to go for initial charge.

WARNING: you are handling pure sulfuric acid which can burn clothing quickly and cause severe burn on your hands, use adequate protection such as gloves, and goggles for accidental spilling, precautionary method is needed.

The electrolyte at the UPPER level indicator of the battery.

After filling, check at least all acid are at the same level, it is not actually necessary they are even, this is just a  suggestion and may be useful in the future for topping up. Now we are ready for the initial charging, when the acid or electrolyte been filled and you have a multimeter on the side, check the battery voltage, YES there will be a voltage reading around and above 12 volts, since the electrolyte is starting to cover the plates.

This is my reading prior to initial charging the quantum battery, and we are ready to put this new battery on a battery charger/conditioner that i made long ago.

As i always tell my readers and or at the forums i joined, initial charging needs a slow charge process and not those fast chargers available. what we are doing is to stabilize all plates and make them even so that when heavy load is drawing to much current when fitted to the bike, all plates will get the same amount of charge when discharge. Using a newly battery without the initial charge is really a NO-NO and will shorten the expectancy life of your newly bought battery...this was the lesson i have learned from the past, and i am sharing that experience to all of you.

As soon as i hooked up the battery charger to the quantum battery, here's what happened, battery voltage is slowly charging up a hundredths of volts per time.
The battery charger can also detect if the battery can be charge or not by monitoring the battery resistance, that if the resistance is high it will not charge the battery.

I hooked up the charger for hours and leave it connected until the BLUE lights come out indication that the battery if now being trickle charge.

here when i hooked up the charger the blue then become red indication that the battery charger is slowly giving out charge to the quantum battery.

when charge done battery charger will then indicate blue for idle.

and after disconnecting the charger to the battery, Voltage will then dropped down to the final terminal voltage and ready for hooked up to the motorcycles.


If a battery is not properly maintained, its service life will drastically reduced, use the usual routine check on your battery, such as

1. check for terminal corrosion
2. if its not maintenance free, check water level, use distilled water for topping up,
3. if the charging system of your motorcycle cannot charge the battery remove it from the unit, use external battery charger to see if it is still holding charge, if not, replaced and follow the initial charging process.
4. check your bike electrical charging system.

HEAVY discharge of the battery also reduces battery cycle and life. avoid discharging it to a level where too much sulfation will occur on the battery plates.

Last Updated: June 26, 2012

Driving COB Led

COB, (Chips on Board) , multi LED (light emitting diode)chips are packaged together as one lighting module. When it light up, it looks like a lighting panel. COB LED is multi chips packaged, it can 10 times more increase lighting area,so it avoid uncomfortable glare by the maximum extent.By now, for small size chip, some famous LED chip manufacturer can reach 249lm/watt @ 20mA. But big size LED chip can only reach 161lm/watt @350mA.The light efficacy decrease when chip size is bigger. Also when LED driver increase current to LED, the light efficacy per watt is even low.COB technology provides significant advantages over surface mount technology (SMT) components in the design with better temperature management, smaller size of lumen packages and lower production costs. In general the life span of COB LED can be 40000-50000 hours.

COB led as shown above compose of seven (7) led in series and requires again a constant current driver, from tha specification found all over the net requires 12v driving them at 300mah of current.From the previous page that can be found here PROJECT LED HEADLIGHT . I still use the same DIY led driver so that the voltage of the led in series will float depending on the forward voltage of each led and the current to the led will then remain constant.
Actually, there are so many led driver being offered all over the net, i myself  wanted to have one of them at least, but due to lack of resources, i just make my own out from those datasheet of every semiconductor that performs the same function for led lighting. And from the schematic, will make PCB for those components to make the circuit work. Pre testing is required not to waste every component.

Schematic of the led driver can be found here led boost constant current driver . For Pcb, you really have to make it on your own since i am just making mine using pen. But to make it easier, there are lots of downloadable PCB software available for all of you to test.

COB led connected to the led current driver (sorry for the photo, grayscale color :(

Beam shot was taken at a 90 degrees, note that the surrounding do not have any other lights on, only the COB led itself..hmmm too powerful for me, wide beam actually cover lots of area than my previous attempt using seven (7) x 3 watts power led in series.

Shot taken now at 45 degree from the actual beamshot, too much glare is obvious, (disclaimer), when doing such experiments on high power leds, avoid prolong exposure of the eye to the actual beam, you may temporary have a blur vision after, and may cause eye disorder.

Actual beamshot towards the floor at my garage, very interesting that due to the wide cover area of the led the beamshot was as if i am using a CCFL energy saving lamp, so that is why manufacturers use it for household lighting. :)

Last Updated: June 19, 2012

NEX 113cc

 SUZUKI scooter line up after the exit of suzuki step 125cc and an addition to HAYATE, SKYDRIVE and JELATO  now comes the SUZUKI NEX 113cc, with its newly design headlight package.

The new scooter of suzuki offers fuel efficiency with the addition of TPS (throttle position sensor) that signal the ignition when to enhance driveability of the machine.

Suzuki NEX 113cc was tag in Indonesia as the most Economical Scooter with a record of 79.6 km/liter on a 40-50 kph at sentul circuit.

from the Overall spec, still it was being offered here with a carburetor type rathen than the Fuel Injected version in indonesia, with a stroke the same as those recently introduced model of suzuki,

The Engine with cutout internal views of it.

Hopefully, suzuki philippines, launches the Fuel injected version so that it can compete with other brand.

Last Updated: June 08, 2012

Motorcycle Led Headlight

This page an update to my previous post Project LED headlight to where i incorporate it already to my sinski 150cc headlight housing. (actual BEAM shot on road not yet taken)

The photo shown with a beam shot taken at an angle of 45 degree in front.

Constant current led driver is needed to prolong the life of the led array and to compensate for the changes in input voltage during use.

The headlight housing to where i'll be incorporating this led headlight prototype to replace my scooter filament type headlight. The original uses 35watts for low beam and 35 watts for high beam.

Headlight lens need to be removed in order for me to fit the led headlight collimating lens. The cover of the headlight was easy to dismantle..(note that new or brand new housing is not that easy to remove because of the anti moist glue.) my headlight perhaps due to the long period it was stock, the glue just didnt stick that much, and dis assembly was a snap.

With the original bulb remove, the hole to where my led headlight bare board, is actually fit, like pair made for each other..:-)) and no more additional drilling holes for this project.

Perfect fit without the collimating lens.

with collimating lens attached on the led array to focus the beam in front.

view of the heatsink for the bare board of the led array. Heatsink is needed, (fan not necessary when the bike is moving, rushing air in front will cool down the heatsink..

And its time to power up the led headlight to see how it went well. I used for this test 12 volts 1.5 ampere wall adapter.