Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Last Updated: June 28, 2011

DC-CDI ignition troubleshooting

Many small bikes of today and tomorrow are now using the DC-cdi technology, this is for reliability and mantaining good spark every now and then, but then at somehow and at somepoint, the system fails. How does it fails?

Firstly, we must understand how the system works from start to finish.

     We'll now get into the ignition system itself. The outline simple enough. You start inside the left engine side cover, where two
     sit near the rotor and produce a pulse of electric current when the pistons near TDC (Top Dead Center) which is fed to the
     (Capacitive Discharge Ignition, variously called the "ignitor box", "brain box", etc.). This box has two basic functions. It adjusts the signal from the pickups based on engine speed to change the timing as needed, and a capacitor thats being charged by an internal HV generator in accordance with RPM switches an SCR dumping energy of the CAPACITOR to the primary winding of the
     so that the secondary winding is "induced" to spit out a high voltage shot to the
SPARK PLUG WIRES and on to the
SPARK PLUG CAPS which in turn sends it to the
     where all this voltage (maybe somewhere between 10kv to 40kv-that's thousands of volts) has enough pressure to make a small current jump the air gap between the electrodes at the bottom of the plug, thereby making a spark. This spark ignites the fuel mixture which, at that point is sitting all around the plug tip in a compressed state, ready to go BANG.
     So that is basically what happens But things aren't quite this simple, and so we'll take each element and talk about it in more depth. We'll also note the problems we've run into, the tests that can be made, and the repairs/fixes we know about. Please understand I'm not a trained engineer just an electronics guy. My comments are based on what I've learned from reading, talking with people, and personal experience with the system.

Motorcycle Automatic Battery Charger

I made this a long time ago for my motorcycle, a battery charger conditioner thats fully automatic, can detect whether the battery plates are still functioning normally or if the battery can be charged when connected...

Been using this for the last few years on my motorcycle battery to keep it in condition, with some peace of mind if i left it un attended will automatically shut the charging off then place it on trickle mode.

Battery charger / conditioner  is suitable for charging and maintaining both open and sealed type 6 volt or 12 volt lead-acid batteries. Battery charging current can be selected between 0.3A or 1A. The battery can be hooked-up to this charger unit for an indefinite time, and the battery will be kept in optimal condition. Battery type and charge current are selectable, while the charging process is fully automatic.
Schematic diagram

Kawasaki OEM DC-CDI

Ever wonder whats inside an OEM DC-CDI of kawasaki,
I got time to open up one just for all of my readers, with my step by step on how i did it without messing up the circuitry of the igniter. At first before i opened up this little black box. The Unit is covered with rubber epoxy and sometimes hardened epoxy to  avoid malfunction from moist and vibration of the motorcycle.

i tried not to mess up with the casing, unfortunately it didnt work for me, the plastic case is too brittle. slowly i chipped the casing with a diagonal cutter starting from the top cover. After hours doing the case thing. ,

The rubber epoxy will be exposed and time to strip it away so that the components of the board will be visible like this.
I used bamboo stick, (do not use hard pointed objects on clearing this epoxy, we do not know where the components are and might get damage by it)..so better yet use stick. ( i did not use any solvent to strip this...i need the entire board intact and the semiconductors un damage...

Last Updated: June 17, 2011

Half Wave Stator to Full wave

We all know that small bikes charging system is made up of only a Half wave ac to dc conversion thus making it impossible for the system to give enough juice out from the stator to charge batteries at low rpm...To compensate for a FULL WAVE rectifier be installed on this system, we need to do some modifying to the stator,

the picture shown uses the stock configuration of a Half Wave system with an AC lighting coil present for headlight connection center tapped to the whole winding of the stator. One end of the coil is connected to chassis ground. I order for this system to give way for a FULL WAVE rectifier, the grounding system must be omitted and center tapped connection for headlight must be removed as shown on the next picture below.

the headlight will be redirected to the battery by cutting the yellow line of the AC lighting coil from the Stock regulator/rectifier, so that the headlight ON off switch as well as the HI/LOW system will still be used without any rewiring that headlight path.

ADVANTAGES of this system than the latter.

with full wave regulation you have almost twice usable dc power (and cleaner) than with half wave
last , cleaner regulation with the sens wire, if well used, it deliver more power if their is a drop (big consumption) than the other fixed simplier one where lighting often drop
and better protection for you electronic again drop or over charge

Last Updated: June 12, 2011

Speed sensor

Digital speedometer like those found in a suzuki shogun 125 and raider 150 wherein there is no cable attached to front end of the bike uses the so called, GEAR TOOTH magnetic sensor, as shown in the picture.

This is bolted in the area where the front sprocket shaft is as shown below

As the gear spins or turns, each spline or tooth in it will be detected by the magnet as it passes and a corresponding electrical pulse is sent out. The faster the gear spins the faster the electrical pulses the sensor sends and thus a speed reading is made.

The sensor shown was already defective and unable to send pulses to the speed panel, I assume it failed due to the oil used that it generate too much heat for the semiconductor attached at the tip of the assembly to overheat and causing it to snap a connection with the wires inside...
I tried to open the sensor part, but it was covered with epoxy.

Last Updated: June 06, 2011

Driving High Power Leds

High power leds from 1 watt up to 5o watts of power needs a constant current driver in order to gain a respectful efficiency, than just using those big bulky white coated limiting resistors, that not just only robs the total power of your leds, but produces poor efficiency that kills the potential of your LEDS.

A 1 watt high power leds in my opinion needs at least a 350mah constant current driver to produce its total luminance, whereas a 3 watts needs 700mah, a 5 watts needs a 1A driving current and so on and so forth.

In the picture above, is a 3 watts X 3 watts high power leds made by SEOUL semicon model P4 i ordered online. It been driven at a selectable switch in a 350mah and 700mah constant current configuration, using a switching mode type circuit. Commonly known circuit that can be used are, NCP3063 by ON semiconductor
LM3404 by national , the cheaper MC34063 by motorola...etc etc.

sample circuit as shown here: