Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.

HOW CDI WORKS

CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Last Updated: December 26, 2012

FULL WAVE regulator schematic

A full wave regulator is a type of regulator mostly found on small motorcycle that can enhance the charging system of motorcycle battery. It can be bought in a four pin or in a five pin configuration as shown on the left. It is also being used widely by enthusiast that convert their single phase half wave generator onto a full wave by altering the stator windings.

Wondering what is inside this kind of regulator and how it differs from those commonly used HALF wave regulator, you are in luck for i have the time and resources to open up this donor regulator. it took me hours of heating up, scraping the coating to expose the main board and parts.

Here it is.

with the help of a portable blow torch, soldering iron, a small flat screwdriver, and a bit of patience, I carefully removed the top coating of this regulator exposing the bottom of the PCB. and noticed the smd (surface mount devices). Seeing that makes me more careful of not scrapping them from their location.

Patience is the key when doing this kind of hobby.




















HOURS later,


Have to desolder first all components to pull out the pcb.














 The bridge rectifier that needs to be heatsinked.
 the epoxy residue..(too tough to scrape)
 top view
 side view

back view
















And the schematic of this board


By comparing this to my previous post

Single Phase Shunt Regulator (full wave)

They are almost identical, but as i have said, the regulator above is a five wire type, the schematic shown on left is a four pin type. The difference, the circuit within the link is always connected to the battery thus leakage is present. while as this regulator has a wire (BLACK) that is connected after the ignition switch and not directly to the battery.

It was used for one reason:

1. when ignition off, monitoring circuit of the schematic is disabled, no current will be taken from the battery when stored, or park.

We have a saying " its better to have more than to have enough" This particular five wire regulators can be used on four wire type. just connect the black and red together..

By looking at the schematic, and comparing it to my previous post of voltage regulators, it is almost identical, with the design, and only component values are different. C1, R1, Q1, D1, and R3 compromising the sensing and regulating circuit, whereas D2,D3, Q2 and Q3 are the shunting components of the stator winding.


D4 to D7 are your rectifiers that converts the AC coming from the stator to DC for charging your battery. With the values as shown, the output of this regulator is 14.4 at 5000rpm. You can modify this circuit for your intended application, to output 15 volts rather than 14.4 for quick charging of your battery when there are too much load on your system, by altering D1, to 13 volts rather than 12.6 volts..
This system is Stator dependent...meaning, this can't output more power on what your stator can give, all charging system power rely on your stator max output...


Note: further again..the generator to be used here do not touch the ground or not connected to any ground. 

Last Updated: November 22, 2012

Universal led DVD laser driver

DVD laser pick up hack can be found all over the internet, others use the linear type laser driver that uses LM317 as the regulator for the laser. Actually laser is also a type of diode that emits light and with the use of a focus lens, we can attain just a dot for it to be called a pointing light device.

 Shown on the left was the constant current driver on my previous post about led driver. This Buck converter can supply up to 700 mah constant current to a high power led of 3 watts. The heart of the circuit was NCP3063 made by On semiconductor.
I made two of them one will drive the high power led and the other will drive the DVD laser for this hack.

Since theres no documentation of the maximal current a DVD laser must have, I made one with a 1.5 ohms sense resistor, and the other with 1.8 ohms, both differ with current that will provide to the led.

The forward voltage of the led will just float when the CC driver is connected to the load.




R203 and R202 will determine the current output of this driver. It is very important to calculate it for your led, if you know the specification of your high power led.

NOTE: never power up the CC driver without load. the NCP3063 will be damaged.

The test show a 3 watts cool white led connected and the CC driver is powered by a 12 volts AC adaptor.

The actual current being supplied to the led is actually 370mah..(forgot to take picture with a ammeter connected in series with the load..next time :)....)

With the same LED CC driver, a blue high power led is connected as shown below.




The led being tested here actually have different forward voltage drop and according to their datasheet.

and now to test if this led CC driver will power up the DVD laser,

cool yes it can be powered by this driver. I am thinking of the LM317 before but i wanted it to have a wide input voltage range.

shown below is the test, inside the black tube was the dvd laser






Last Updated: November 08, 2012

ONE chip spinning POV

I was inspired on a site where they make those spinning POV (persistence of vision)  that scroll text from right to left with just  8 pieces of RGB led. What's good about their version was, few components used.

HERE is a working video of my version.


As of this time, the text scroll too slow, and i am just beginning to configure the RPM of the motor to make it faster.

Some photo of how i made the hobby project.


 materials i made for this HOBBY project. the smd pcb, controller and the smd led.
These are the smd led from a CHINA made led strip. Just needed to resolder this and reuse to my own pcb. I needed to use a low wattage soldering iron around 20 watts, for the first attempt on removing this was terribly difficult, I actually waste 6 pcs of them by to much heat of my first 30 watts soldering around stripping the internal contact of the led to the pins...what a waste, anyway i do manage to salvage at least 8 pieces for this project.

Shown on the right was the populated SMD pcb with led in placed. mount all the parts on the controller board such as 40 pin ic socket, ICSP pin, resistor.



combine the two boards, SMD led board and Resistor board with copper wire strip from a donor telephone wire..



When all board been populated with components, its time to solder the thin wires to their corresponding pins.
















All of them are inspired to be made through this link

The-One-Chip-Spinning-RGB-POV-Display

Thanks to you.

Last Updated: October 01, 2012

Motorcycle Immobilizer (Alarm)

Motorcycle alarm is one of the very important gadgets when it comes to securing your bike from all sort of crooks. It is already BER months and they are on the loose again. Alarm comes from a variety from simple up to those wireless sophisticated GSM based units. Sometimes they incorporate GPS tracking system just to monitor where the bike was after being bikenapped by those crooks, but not all can afford this kind of bike security. Motorcycle can be stolen anywhere, when parked, and or moving. The only last line of defense is having at least an immobilizer that is timed when a hidden button is switched on after the bike get stolen.

OVERVIEW

What i have in mind is to make a circuit that when the motorcycle is park, inside the compartment is a hidden switch to activate the alarm system that when the bike is move or tilted from its position, a TILT switch will then  activate the circuit and timer will start counting on the desired pre adjusted time before any audible or visual indication commence. I been thinking  also of fitting a way of contacting any of your android based phone but this will mean a microcontroller and an additional low tech phone as well and will only make the system more complex for starters. But for now i wanted to make it simple and yet enough to immobilize any attempt of bikenap.

Another scenario of stoling the bike is when you are moving then suddenly a gun  pointed at you and to be spared is just  give the bike where they just drive it, then the bike is way gone. So why not put an IMMOBILIZER circuit that when this happens, a simple push on a switch will timed the circuit and shall deactivate the ignition entirely up until they cannot start the bike ignition. In this way, they might just leave the bike nearby and allow you also to buy time to call for help..

These are those simple measure i have in mind and this article will cover how to make one and install it within your motorcycle.

PROPOSED CIRCUIT

555 timer IC is the best for this kind of application, Cheap but so powerful when it comes to timing circuit. There are lot of design  all over the internet, and almost have the same configuration. In order to pick the pre adjusted time such as 10 sec , 25 sec or all the way up to 3 minutes delay, it is best to use a DIP switch rather than a trimmer.

Last Updated: August 29, 2012

Tuning Shogun CARB (for starters)

Shogun FD125xrm, FL125 carburetor are not so difficult to tune for optimal mixture and for maximum performance. Newbies or those who is just beginning to ride a motorcycle of course tend to drop by at any shop they spotted just to make their bike tune in for no particular reason for a carbureted bike without altering intake and exhaust system definitely will not give any problems unless they are ridden hard, usage of poor quality gasoline, using fuel additives, and or riding in a dust prone areas to where the airbox or intake system will accumulate dust particles that will clog the paper air filter of the box.

Fine tuning of the carburetor is sometimes not nescessary if you are just changing air filter, but when it is time for carburetor maintenance, some of the problems may be noticeable as follows below


          



         
              1.       Are you tired of cold starts? Need to raise the throttle everyday to get the cold engine running?
                   2.  Does someone have the same bike as yours and are you tired of losing to him in drag races?
                   3.   Suddenly, the fuel efficiency has reduced after a service?
                   4.  Has the mechanic has screwed up your tuning?
                   5.  Engine gives hiccups when you open the throttle?
                   6.  Or your bike is just missing that smooth acceleration whenever you want?
                   7.  Or your engine overheats even if you did not race too much.

May be the following will help you in tuning your mean machine for optimal power delivery and best fuel economy. This guide aims at tuning the fuel/air screw to give you an optimal air-fuel mixture. An optimal mixture gets maximum performance from your machine.
All the single cylinder bikes, 2 stroke or 4 stroke having a carburetor. Tachometer is very handy and a must for a newbie or the tuning process will be very slow or painful or imperfect.

Turn the idle settings screw so that rpm reaches about 3000 rpm. Now tune the air/fuel screw to make the mixture leanest as possible. Clockwise is for closing the air screw (richer) and counterclockwise is for opening for more air (leaner)
As you make the mixture leaner, slowly the engine RPM decreases… Go on doing this until you have put the fuel screw to the leanest possible point. At the same time, ensure that the engine does not stall, by turning the idle-screw.
Tough ? You’ll get used to it 
OK the engine is running and the mixture is lean. If you notice from the engine sound OR if you see the tachometer, the engine RPM will not be steady at this point. Now very slowly start turning the fuel screw anti-clockwise, quarter to 1/8th turn at a time. You will notice that the RPM increases slowly and steadily. Again, do this very very slowly. Also count the total number of turns as you wind out the screw.
You’ll notice that when you have turned it to about 2-3 full revolutions, the engine RPM slowly becomes constant. It is this point that you must stop screwing more. This probably is the optimal setting for your engine.
Further on, try turning the screw even more and more to 4 revolutions and you’ll notice that the engine RPM will slowly decrease. When this happens, you are just putting in a too rich mixture in your engine. At this point the engine loses all the fuel efficiency and the mixture is not optimal. Repeat the process about 2-3 times. Count the revolutions each time and get the setting which you feel is correct.
OK the engine is humming perfectly, now what? Decrease the idle setting screw to about 1000rpm in the tachometer. When the engine slows down, just twist the throttle. The response should be crisp and quick. It should not give any hiccups! Try shutting off the engine and restarting. The engine MUST start in a single kick or self with out giving throttle. If this happens, the setting is ok. Now get a ride and you’ll notice the difference for good or bad 
You’ll immediately notice change in the engine sound and the throttle response. Your engine can become more smooth or harsh. Another important point is, Ride and Feel. Always take a ride and get the feel of the bike in each gears, check the response and the engine sound. You’ll quickly come to know once you get the feel of the bike that you want to make the mixture rich or lean.
It may take a few iterations before you fix a setting as permanent. Try calculating the mileage per liter and tally it with your setting and the feeling you get.

Remember, this simple tuning process is for those who have no leaks on the intake manifold, as well as for those who have not accumulated dirt inside those carb passageways, and that the air filter is intact or still in its place..

Altering any of the mentioned intake and or exhaust system may definitely have problems such as throttle transition from close to 1/4th throttle to 3/4th up to WOT or wide open throttle.

GUNSON COLORTUNE. If you have access on this kind of REALTIME visual indication of what's happening inside your combustion chamber when you are turning that screw to indicate whether you are on the lean side or rich side part of the mixture.

I'll have my bike top overhauled soon, for will replace valve seal, valve guide, and valves, so it will be needing carb re tuning and i'll once again use this colortune for my VM-18 carb maximal performance be sure to come back here anytime for updates and to show you how it works real time.


Last Updated: August 24, 2012

Baby B-king 250cc (in a glance)

Suzuki already unveil the baby b-king 250cc in europe, in india, and now maybe in indonesia. This motorcycle was inspired on a legendary B-king 1300cc design that was fitted with a more economical, fuel injected 2 cylinder engine that is capable of producing 24hp at 8500 rpm and a torque of 23.8 Nm at 6500 rpm .It was also equipped with a twin muffler for stylish look..Panel was also built with large display and modern look







Inazuma 250cc in terms of technical and transmission specs is equipped with a 53.5 stroke and 55.2 bore on each cylinder with a 6-speed transmission. Not bad for a touring bike. Suzuki philippines must look onto this kind of bike to be more competitive againts honda, yamaha, and kawasaki, and just not rely on those suzuki raider 150cc.

 The panel of the suzuki inazuma 250cc

 Headlight 


 The 2 Cylinder engine of inazuma 250cc

 REAR END VIEW and muffler look




Competition is already high with the arrival of Honda CBR250Fi and possibly soon with the Kawasaki ninja 250R Fi 2013 model, maybe its time for suzuki asia pacific to come up with something like this very soon.

Last Updated: August 21, 2012

Wireless Helmet Stoplight

Wireless helmet stop lamp is a gadget that when you hit your brake, stop lamp at the rear will lit to alert incoming motorist that you are braking, every vehicle must have a red (take note) RED colored stop light to alert them. This wireless helmet stop lamp gadget i think will add safety to a rider during night riding. It works as an additional link with the existing rear brake light via the transmitter that will be wired parallel on the stop lamp wiring. Then the receiver which is embedded on the helmet lamp module will receive the signal from the transmitter.


I am thinking of having such gadget like this a long time ago on my zeus 508w, but of course in my own approach..The DIY thing. Although this kind of gadget is possible ordering online via credit card, which i do not own one, so my only option was to make one just like this but again in a different approach that will be my next project very soon. Will be on the drawing board for this one and i am anticipating it to be very useful to me like my signal lights bar end, and side mirror with signal lights for added visibility at night.

Last Updated: August 14, 2012

FZ16 (with wiring diagram)

The Yamaha Fz16 cool looking naked bike was introduced long ago here in my country. It is called Yamaha Byson in indonesia, equipped with a 150cc engine.

FULL SPECIFICATION:


General information
Model: Yamaha FZ16
Year: 2011
Category: Naked bike

Engine and transmission

Displacement: 153.00 ccm (9.34 cubic inches)
Engine type: Single cylinder, four-stroke
Power: 14.00 HP (10.2 kW)) @ 7500 RPM
Torque: 14.00 Nm (1.4 kgf-m or 10.3 ft.lbs) @ 6000 RPM
Compression: 9.5:1
Bore x stroke: 58.0 x 57.9 mm (2.3 x 2.3 inches)
Valves per cylinder: 2
Fuel system: Carburettor. BS26
Fuel control: SOHC
Ignition: CDI
Lubrication system: Wet sump
Cooling system: Air
Gearbox: 5-speed
Transmission type,
final drive: Chain
Clutch: Constant mesh wet multiplate

Chassis, suspension, brakes and wheels

Frame type: Diamond
Front suspension: Telescopic fork
Rear suspension: Monocross
Front tyre dimensions: 100/80-17
Rear tyre dimensions: 140/60-R17
Front brakes: Single disc
Rear brakes: Expanding brake (drum brake)

Physical measures and capacities

Dry weight: 126.0 kg (277.8 pounds)
Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 137.0 kg (302.0 pounds)
Power/weight ratio: 0.1111 HP/kg
Seat height: 790 mm (31.1 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting.
Overall length: 1,975 mm (77.8 inches)
Wheelbase: 1,335 mm (52.6 inches)
Fuel capacity: 12.00 litres (3.17 gallons)

The only drawback i could find on this very nice looking bike was the REAR DRUM brake, that should have been equipped with at least a DISC braking system, nonetheless, for me, this bike is worth watching for future upgrades and improvement to totally dominate the world of motorcycle here in my country.

OTHER COLOR available for 2013







WIRING DIAGRAM 

CLICK to ZOOM

LEGENDS

1. Magneto
2. Neutral Switch
3. Regulator/rectifier
4. Main Fuse
5. Battery
6. Main Switch
7. CDI unit
8. Ignition Coil
9. Horn
10. Signal light relay
11. Front brake switch
12. Rear Brake Switch
13. meter
14. pass light switch
15. park light
16.headlight indicator
17. headlight indicator
18. Tail light
19. TPS
21. positive lead cable
22. negative lead cable
23. starter relay
24. starter motor
25. speed sensor
26. starter switch
27. starter cut relay
28. clutch switch
29. fuel gauge
30. engine stop switch
31. headlight switch
32. turning rear indicator light
33. turning front indicator light
34. headlight HI/LO switch
35. horn relay
36. signal light switch

WIRE COLOR CODE

B- black
Br- brown
Ch- choco brown
Dg- dark green
G- green
Gy--gray
L- blue
Lg- light green
O- orange
P-pink
R- red
Sb-Sky blue
W- white
Y-yellow
B / L -Black / Blue
Br / L- Brown/Blue
L /B--Blue/Black
L/W- Blue/White
O/B--Orange/Black
P/W- Pink/White
R/B--Red/Black
R/L- red/Blue
R/W- red/White
W/Y-white/Yellow
Y/G--yellow/Green
Y/L--yellow/Blue
Y/R--yellow/Red