Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

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Last Updated: January 24, 2015

Raider R150 tachometer for BRT solution

Raider R150 tachometer is a digital design that works only with the OEM DC-CDI. The input signal pulses for it to work came from one of the output pins of the MCU inside the black box.

Many motorcycle mod junkie that fits aftermarket compatible ignition controller like the BRT, kitti and others do not have that pulse to make the tachometer work again, Hence only some modification is needed.

Figure 1 shows the circuit that may able to use to control and or make the tachometer works and uses LM2917N which is a frequency to voltage converter entirely useful on thise analog tachometer made by TYPE R.


The signal pin is connected to the primary input of the ignition coil. The meter connection to be use is meter (-) and will be connected to the wire that was supposedly connected on the CDI pin. which is pin 5 wire..calibration is done by VR1, and your done.


figure 2 shows the typical layout of the circuit.

Image not scaled.

Last Updated: January 08, 2015

Raider rear brake sticking solution

Motorcycles with disk brake such as those of shogun 125, raider R150 tend to stick when brake is engage if it is not maintain properly. The brake caliper won't return at the rest position. Bleeding the fluid alone will not help on removing the sticking caliper problem, and the solution is quite simple and can be done even without removing the wheel.

Looking at figure 1
figure 1
with the brake pad remove, if the caliper cannot be moved away from the disk rotor then the rods that hold it to the bracket is already in need of cleaning and re-greasing.

There are two ways to remove it, and my way is not taking out the wheel.
Figure 2 shows how is simply take out your muffler. To get it out from the bracket. Two rods are holding it in place, one is fixed and one is removable like of a bolt as shown in
figure 3. Just loosen it using an open #12 until the bolt is fully out from the bracket.
Figure 4 will allow you now to move the caliper all the way up for removal, away from the bracket.
figure 5

Figure 5 and 6 shows the rod that needs cleaning, If these rods have rough surfaces, sand it with 800 grit followed by 1000 to smooth it and freely move later.
Figure 7 shows where to put grease after cleaning those holes. When done re-greasing, Clean the external surface of the caliper for dirt and mud (optional)

It is ready for re-insertion. Procedure is just the opposite of the removal.

and that's it. Sticking brake caliper is gone and your back wheel will freely spin now.