Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.


CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Last Updated: July 28, 2012

Shogun FL125 Generator Test

Shogun FL125 charging system is actually the same as shogun FD125XRM. This article will show you how to test your electrical preferably the CHARGING and lighting system.

CHARGING and LIGHTING wiring diagram

Here i'll be giving you where and what to check if you are having problems with battery charging and lighting problems. You'll be needing a multi meter a digital with a diode test to perform troubleshooting your own bike.

LOCATION of SHOGUN FL125 Regulator 

The regulator is located in front when you take off front cover, shown in number 2 with part number SH672, remove the connector shown in number 1, set your multimeter to diode test and follow the next picture for the right data.

You dont need to turn your ignition, this is to test the leakage on your Regulator.

The reading of all the test must be close to what is written above, if there is a short or almost 0 on the digital read out then the Regulator is defective.

If all test of the regulator is OK!! we then proceed with the generator system and lighting coils resistance and voltage.

GENERATOR Resistance and Voltage check

Set the digital multimeter in resistance range.

Disconnect the  black connector as shown to perform resistance and voltage check, this is the connector of the generator, other is for the pick-up coil and ground.

for lighting coil resistance, connect the multimeter probe to Y/W (yellow with white strip wire) and to ground..

The reading must be
0.4 - 1.0 ohms

and for the charging coil, connect probe to W/R (white wire with red strip) and ground.

The value must be
0.6 - 1.2 ohms


This check must be taken with safety because we are talking about AC voltages here. No wires from the generator must not touch any metal on the chassis. Youll be needing to crank the engine and rev to 5000 rpm to test the generator output.

Multimeter is set to AC voltage range. connect probes as shown, AC do not have polarity so either way..

W/R and ground rev at 5000 rpm must read
50 volts AC or more but no more than 100 volts

Y/W and ground rev at 5000 rpm should read
40 volts AC or more but not more than 80 volts

readings not close or lower than the specified value means there are problems with the generator windings, either there are short due to exposed wires inside and or the skin coating of the enamel wires of the windings are already exposed to the oil.

GOODLUCK with the test.


Full schematic wiring diagram of this bike can be found here


Last Updated: July 27, 2012

Sachs MADASS (with wiring diagram)

Cool looking naked bike which was introduced here in the philippines and is seldom seen since only limited units was scattered all over the country, with displacement from 100cc automatic transmission, to 125cc manual class tranny, i find it so appealing after my first drive with this bike, with 16 inch alloy wheels, a mono shock suspension, large front fork, dual disk brake, with projected headlights. I can do more thingy with this bike.

This unique air-cooled 100cc 4-stroke, features modern digital speedo, fuel tank-in-frame design, mini indicators, rear mono shock with Banana swing arm, twin projector headlights, catalized exhaust system with under seat silencer, LED tail light and hydraulic 2-piston brake caliper. The MadAss can be ridden at 16-years of age on a moped licence. It also has a 125cc which is madder than the 100cc automatic.

Handling : Out of 10 i say 8, due to its wide tire
Speed : I have the 100cc automatic thus from stop and go, too slow to react on my throttling compared to my manual tranny suzuki shogun thus from 10, i go with 5.
Looks : Here with its mono shock bulk frame, a head turner out of 10 its 9.

Do you OWN this kind of Bike, How can u rate it.


Last Updated: July 24, 2012

CDI Building Blocks

This article will cover how motorcycle  capacitive discharge ignition works, its building blocks. How an AC-CDI can be made a DC-CDI, how the internal dc-dc converter of a dc-cdi affects the overall performance. First. we will cover the AC-cdi to which some scooters, moped, and some chinese made 2 wheels utilize. Looking at the picture, it covers the building block of an AC-CDI,
 it can easily be distinguished on any bike because  they have the so called KILL switch to where it will disable the switching of the SCR or to cut the high voltage generator on supplying the capacitor to off the engine. Kill switch is a must for any ac-cdi circuit, and without it, the exciter or source coil will continue to rotate and supply high voltage to the capacitor.

AC-CDI can be made by enthusiast whether they are analog to digital, from simple to complex form, from fixed to a programmable to where you can adjust the ignition curve to meet your needs on racing or street driveability. Here we will not gather any information about racing CDI, for they are almost the same to what our bike is using, in short, they are only the modified version and sometimes, (this is not a fact but sometimes it is true) that they perform worse than those OEM fitted on our factory bikes, again but not all.


The simplest form of cdi which compose of discrete components, like resistor, capacitor, transistor, an scr and diodes.

Here shown in the picture is an analog simple easy to build cdi. It has no advance function, the trigger of the scr is straight forward.

When pulses from the pick-up coil is sensed, it will produce voltage near but not more than 5volts. It will then be configure by D3 for positive pulse, and condition by the R2 and C2 for noise removal of the pick-up coil for SCR Q1 gate triggering.

Exciter or source coil will produce 60-120 volts, this depends on the power of the coil, is then converted by D1 to DC for C1 charging..

When the pulse arrived at SCR gate, it will be triggered and shunting the capacitor charge to ground and dumped it on the ignition coil, and because ignition coil is just a straight forward step up transformer, primary will then produce magnetic field transferring power to secondary winding and because of the ratio between the two windings about 1:100, secondary will produce a brief 20,000kv - 30,000kv then onto the ignition wire, then finally at the tip of the spark plug gap to produce an ARC.


On the other hand, a digital AC-CDI form the name itself, compose of perhaps some digital ic like, microprocessors to where configuration of advance thru PC is probable. some uses micros like PIC, AVR, freescale, and the likes. example of this can be found from site like


Comparing to the simple analog AC-CDI posted above, the triggering circuit before the gate of the SCR went from the microcontroller pic16f84A to which must be programmed according to the specification of your motorbike, I'll not tell you exactly how this circuit works, for all of the data are within their site.

This circuit can operate with or without battery but nonetheless, since microcontroller IC needs constant supply, it may be best to use a battery to avoid failure.

Again, there is the STOP engine button connected to the gate of the scr via ground to of course stop the engine.

The microcontroller do all the stuff for pulse conditioning, as well as retarding or advancing the ignition to make room for a configurable driveability of your motorbike.

AC-CDI , can be configured to work as a DC-CDI with the help of a high voltage dc-dc converter in replacement for the high voltage generator coil that supply the necessary voltage to charge the capacitor, and  the more complex yet very effective dc-cdi comes to play.


Here a block diagram of this kind of ignition controller found nowadays on motorbike, the exciter coil, or source coil, or high voltage generator coil is omitted. but then a battery is in placed to power up the cdi. KILL switch is also omitted for once the power supply coming in from the battery is cut, there is no more power for the internal high voltage converter to use hence cutting of any means of charging the capacitor turning off the engine.

Only difference of the DC to AC type, here there will be a more complex circuit composed of the high voltage dc-dc converter that will act as the exciter coil or source coil. I will take this dc-cdi schematic for example.

The circuit on the red block is the source of the high voltage and act as the source coil of an AC-CDI system. Its a free running oscillator, but unlike the exciter coil produces continuous voltage, HV converter must be turned off in relation to the triggering of the SCR switch. This is not to cause a shorted path when the SCR dumps the charge of the capacitor. They are timely tied together.

Depending on the frequency of the oscillator, this has a big effect on how fast it can charge the capacitor at higher revolution of the engine. This circuit sometimes limit the overall performance of any Capacitor Discharge ignition built. If they can be made to be more powerful then we may be able to have a higher performance cdi as what those so called racing cdi does. but we all know that having a powerful ignition output means more voltage is needed thus more current consumption on the battery. Other's often states that changing the charging capacitor to a higher value compensate for this trade off,

"As the size of the capacitor is increased, the output of the ignition also increases, however the oscillator must be made more powerful. Certain trade offs must be made in design for a particular application."

still without improving the High voltage converter circuit, ignition limitations is in place.

There are many variations of the HIGH VOLTAGE CONVERTER used on a dc-cdi, other uses the typical low cost forward converter type some uses the switching mode type with onboard IC like SG3525, UC3845, other use microcontroller to switch it on and off. There are too many variation of producing high voltage for this kind of ignition. The trade-off is actually the design, the size and the frequency of the oscillator to charge the capacitor at a faster time.

I am into currently modifying this OEM dc-cdi of my motorbike by replacing its onboard converter to a more powerful one posted here


and will try to use this kind of high voltage converter schematic

I am into modifying for a smaller pcb for this so that i can put it right on top of the original dc-cdi board. This high voltage can be configured by modifying the feedback control resistors R2 and R3.

Last Updated: July 17, 2012

Integrated TAIL/Brake, signal lights

Ever seen a ford expedition with just a full REAR red lights where a signal, tail and brake lights are done by those RED lights. They are called INTEGRATED rear lights and can be done on motorcycles too. Take a look at the video. This was the very first version of my diy works with my bike a long time ago, to where my signal lights tail lights and brake lights are compose with just an array of led at the rear.


I used this circuit posted led-brake-light This will be your TAIL/BRAKE light controller, it needs two of this for left and right led array assembly. to incorporate the SIGNAL lights on this circuit, we have to use two 12 volts miniature relay.

two of this single pole single throw relay will be used to switched the negative line of the led array on the circuit above. The NC or normally closed pins will be used. Look at the modified schematic below.

Cut the negative path of the led array from the driving mosfet and wired it to the normally closed pins of the relay so that when powered on the path of that negative pin of the array is still connected. And when you turn on the signal lights, the relay will be activated thus cutting the line of the led array producing a flashing effect on your integrated rear lights. This circuit by the way will be on all the time, that when you on the ignition switch, your tail light must be on so that the rear signal lights function during day time.

Part list:

D1-D2= 1n4007
ZD1= 15volts /1watt
ZD2= 9-14 volts / 500mw
R1 / R4= 10k ohms
R2 = 1.3 ohms
R3 = 16.1 ohms
R5 = 2.2k ohms
VT1 = 2n3904
VT2 / VT3 = mtp3055e (mosfet)

for signal lights add on

RL1 / RL2 = 12 volts miniature pcb relay

Last Updated: July 09, 2012

Ignition Wire Ground Strap

Ignition coil at the very least are the last part of any ignition that provide High Voltage for the spark plug to ignite the mixture inside any combustion of an engine, and sometimes the least to overlook when it comes to enhancement. If we analyze our ignition coil, and the parts that covered here are, ignition coil connected to an ignition wire down to spark plug cap to where the spark plug will be connected. But, if we enhanced further our analysis on the said part, only the HV path is directly connected to each component, and the ground is left on where the coil is bolted, then down to the engine itself via the connection of the engine to the chassis, to where the cylinder head with the spark plug ground is then connected and bolt on to receive the ground.

I have been reading all through the net about ground strapping the entire ignition wire in order for the whole system have its own grounding strap instead of relying on the engine chassis ground to i think produce a consistent END part of the ignition to make it more reliable. So why not give a try.

Here what we are going to do is, Adding a direct ground connection on the ignition coil ground down to the cylinder head to where the spark plug is bolted and rely on the engine chassis ground. Materials needed are the following.

Ground strap---this can be found on some computer cables, like the VGA cable, Parallel port cable, etc etc.

We need to remove the other wires inside this ground strap, so that it can be inserted on the ignition wire.

after the removal of all wires being covered with the ground strap, we are ready to insert this strap on the ignition wire.

After minutes of inserting the ground strap must look like this, end to end of the ignition wire must be covered leaving some and twisted at the end for the mounting eyelet to be soldered..The eyelet will be the part to be bolted on the ignition mounting bracket and to anywhere in the cylinder head.

To protect the ground strap from dust, water and any forms of road debris, we need something to hold of also in its place and SHRINK tubing is i think the best for this job. It can be bought at any electronic supply parts nationwide.

This is the final modification of the entire ignition coil, with ignition wire ground strap in place and the eyelet soldered at each end.

Ignition coil bolted to its mounting bracket together with the modded ignition wire ground strap together.

Spark plug cap end with ground connected near the spark plug..

Many people will try to ask,

1.What will be GAINED on doing this kind of MODIFICATION or trick?

ANS: I myself was amazed of doing this kind of mod from a site i recently saw, and logically thinking, why not, thinking outide the box, why the ignition end do not have a proper ground strap and just rely on the engine chassis, and making this mod really make sense that instead of the usual way, why not directly connect such ground as well as ground strapping the entire ignition wire to block any unwanted interference that might affect ignition.

TEST your bike after this mod, if you felt your throttle much crispier than before without this modification, there its a success, for thats why i felt.

2. Why not just put a wire and bolt it like the way you did instead of adding it on the ignition wire?

ANS: It can be used instead of following this kind of modification, what i intend to do was make it clean, and that's how it came out using ground strap, perhaps they'll both the same trick, JUST being clean though.